Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Engine Started Surging - EGR Delete
Mar 10, 2017
A few weeks ago I got in my 2005 EX and started for work. As I idled in traffic, the engine started surging (it had never done this before). So I took it right to Ford and dropped it off before it got worse. Of course, they couldnt look at it until Monday (this was a Thursday), so I had to get a rental.
I get the call on Monday that the surging problem was an injector, but covered by my warranty. But, it seems that my EGR cooler was bad, but even more important was my blown head gasket.
WHAT?! My truck did NOT have a blown head gasket when I dropped it off. But thats besides the point. There was much back and forth between Ford and my warranty company, but finally I got them to cover the head gasket.
But, I had to pay for the EGR cooler. So I asked the Ford mechanic if I could supply him with an upgraded cooler, so I wouldn't have this issue in the future. He said no problem. I then told him I was going to buy a Bulletproof and he said no, get a delete kit. He said "I've done a number of these, and its really the best solution.". He even HEAVILY recommended the ADT Delete kit. He even said that since I have a 2005, we can just leave the EGR valve hooked up and I wouldn't have a CEL issue.
Fast forward several days. I picked up my EX last night and... CEL is on. I called and spoke to the mechanic and he told me that I must have an upgraded program, and that my only option is a tuner to turn off the EGR completely. He also told me that I don't need an expensive SCT or Bullydog just for the EGR.
Anyways, with all of the above setting of the stage complete, just wondering what my best option is here... Is there a simple/cheaper tuner I can use to just disable the EGR? Is it worth the money to get a more expensive tuner? For the most part, this is my daily driver and I don't need a performance or towing tune. I wouldn't mind better mileage, though
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Last night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
View 11 Replies
Just bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
View 14 Replies
If doing a EGR delete on a early 2004 6.0 will turn on the check engine light? I was going to leave the valve in place and harness connected, I was just looking to add durability to the truck so don't want to use a tuner but also don't want the engine light on, I seen conflicting reports that it may or may not turn on the light!
View 3 Replies
After a couple of setbacks, including forgetting to install 3 out of the 4 orings on the oil cooler, I got the IPR Gen2 delete installed. I have a couple of issues since getting it started. I have low boost, I know the up pipe for the turbo is seated well, really surprised about that. However, the exhaust pipe may have a slight leak, but not positive. Finally, the last on this issue, I have a ripped MAP hose that I'm going to replace.
Next issue is that I hear what almost sounds like a gas engine exhaust rumble from the front of the truck. What it could be? I had white smoke initially coming out of the exhaust, but it cleared up after getting everything up to temp and taking it for a ride down the road. On a side note, the leak that I had from my previous thread seems to be gone now.
View 3 Replies
I've been noticing some weird, very subtle engine sound changes while driving at highway speeds lately. Something almost like surging, but not. I don't know how to describe it. I might try to make an audio recording next time I take it out so I can explain it.
Anyway, I don't know why but ICP popped into my head. Maybe, for some reason, the engine was varying ICP causing the surging sounds.
So I hooked up AE and did a test. I've attached a screen shot.
With my idle speed actuated as high as it will go, and ICP actuated as high as it can go, I can only get a pressure of about 1450 PSI. I always thought ICP should go higher than that. I seem to recall reading somewhere around 3600 PSI.
So am I misinformed, am I reading the data wrong or do I have a problem? How high should Injector Control Pressure go? I missed it in the screen shot, but ICP is actuated to 100%.
View 14 Replies
New to me truck, 2004 250, bought in Aug, 110K on it.
First thing out of the gate the FICM wiring Harness was bad, so I will have to replace that, I was thinking that since I'm that far into it why not just go a little farther and have a look see at the EGR Cooler and the HPOP...
I don't get white smoke on start or any other time, seems to run fine, haven't got a scanguage yet, so no data.
Thinking about doing the EGR Delete, but not really sure on all the pro's/cons of it.
Being an 04 truck It won't throw any codes if I put in the delete, and its far more economical to do the delete, however I have heard that new ECM program/updates could cause the truck to throw a code...
Looked at BPD and their EGR oil cooler, but that is just plainly out of the budget for now.
SOOOO If I delete am I looking at a potential check engine light (god I hate those) in the future, and or issues when I go in for emissions, can they really tell its been deleted?
View 14 Replies
Looking at an EGR delete in the very near future. Any problems passing emissions with a full delete?
View 14 Replies
How to completely turn it off, I got nothing so far. I cant do it with my H&S, I have access to ford IDS which is also unable to turn it off. The only thing I have found to work is unplugging a wheel speed sensor, which sets off dash lights... Im thinking of finding a body control module without advancetrac.
View 14 Replies
Some people say it's normal to lose some boost after the delete, some say it's not and you need a tuner. Before the delete, I could regularly see around 28-29 psi on the factory gauge if I jumped on it. Now, I see about a max of 20-21. I have no leaks that I can find and the truck runs just as it did before. I still have my EGR plugged in laying on top of the engine and don't have a check engine light-yet. Is there a definitive answer as to how to fix this or is it really considered normal to lose that much boost after a delete? I don't really want a tuner because I'm not looking to add HP, but if that's what it takes, then I need to save up. I also read somewhere it can depend on the strategy.
View 14 Replies
I am going to have an IPR EGR delete done. Having a hard time telling whether I have the round or square EGR. Looking on the passenger side anywhere to look specifically so I make the correct ID. Want to order the correct one. They said build date is not a good way to ID.
View 9 Replies
I am looking into getting the full deletes on my 2013 F250 6.7 and using the H&S Mini Maxx Race Tuner unlocked. I was told by my local Diesel Performance Shop I should just unplug the EGR and turn it off by the Tuner rather than investing in the delete kit.
He advised me it would be easier to plug it back in and turn it back on in case I need to take it back to the Dealer for any warranty work He advised me no advantages any way and works the same way. I will be putting on the H&S race tuner, S&B CAI, FLo Pro 5" down pipe back w/ no muffler and UREA delete.
View 11 Replies
I am planning on doing a stealth egr delete on a 2006 6.0. What is the proper procedure? Is there a scoop in Y pipe that needs to be eliminated? Am I going to see a CEL? Am I going to need a tuner to clear CEL and codes?
View 10 Replies
I'm brand new 6.0 owner. I am going to be performing many of the bullet proofing steps including plugging off of or a complete delete of the EGR cooler. I've read that the SCT tuner will turn off the CEL light and stop the ECM from operating EGR function.
What I can't find for sure is will I get a code P1000 (drive cycle not completed) with EGR turned off. Here in Seattle if you have a code P1000 stored you will not be allowed to complete emissions testing to get your tabs renewed. I'm guessing it does not set P1000.
View 4 Replies
Just did an egr delete, oil cooler, icp sensor and exhaust on an 03 f250 6.0l. got it all back together and it cranked up and ran for about 30 seconds then stumbled and died. read to pull out the ipr sensor and check it and it had a piece of debris on it covering the screen. took of the debris and still no start.
View 6 Replies
Truck ran good for about a week now it has five exults codes and runs like crap I know I need a programmer but do you think I messed something up.
View 1 Replies
So, on my way home from checking out a house all of a sudden the truck started vibrating when getting on the highway. Then it got worse quickly. So I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a parking lot, the truck shuddering badly any time I pressed the fuel pedal. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer. I'm thinking torque converter/transmission, but I freely admit I don't know. Here's what I think is pertinent info-
1. I bought it at 84k miles, now 122k. Oil changed every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, coolant every 20k, trans fluid every 20k. Don't kmow what was done first 84k miles before I bought it.
2. Driveshaft rebuilt one year ago. Both fr and rr diff fluids changed a few months ago, along with transfer case fluid.
3. When in park or neutral engine revs perfectly smooth. When placed in gear and fuel is added it starts to shudder, getting worse as revs go up. Does not vary with road speed, only with engine speed and load into transmission.
4. There are no codes at all. All temps were normal. Engine oil and trans fluid level normal.
5. A few months ago when coming home from a trip I suddenly had the same symptoms about 3 miles from home, but not as bad as today. Made it home taking it easy and went to bed. I was exhausted from a long day of driving and when I test drove the truck the next morning to check it out it was smooth as could be, so I thought maybe I imagined it. Symptoms did not reappear until today, a few months and several thousand miles later.
View 14 Replies
How to get the boot or hose off the egr delete tube without having to tear everything apart? mines leaking i have new hose to replace just not sure how to get the old one off...
View 7 Replies
I just did a test drive with my 04 6 liter, I did the stealth egr delete. I had a P0400 error code any concern?
View 14 Replies
Had a coolant leak I finally traced to the rubber hose on an egr delete (previous owner installed, not sure of brand). Looks like the jackwagon who installed it cranked the clamps way too tight and they eventually split the hose. I have a piece of heater hose that looks like the right diameter and cut to size should fit fine. I guess I am just looking for some reassurance that it would be ok to use in that situation...
View 3 Replies
So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
View 14 Replies
