Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Electrical Malfunction - IPR% Not Working - Fired For 2 Seconds?
Sep 20, 2016
Got a 2005 F350 with 250,000 miles with "electrical" problems. First thing I did was change batteries, clean body grounds and check most fitting and connections. Looked good at KOEO. Tried to crank and it struggled and fired for about 2 seconds. The IPR % was going nuts. Took off FICM found one bent pin that I don't know what it controls. It is where the screwdriver tip is.
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I was driving home and my dash shut off and motor then came back on. Thought to my self hmm not good. Then she did it again. Then thought well that will be hard to find if it only does it two times. I will fix it when it happens more would be easier to find. Then off and coasting down the road. Now on the side of the road. But from what I can till now it seems like my pcm is not getting power. I was able to crank and get it fired then shuts down and will crank but keeps kicking the starter out.
Now it will not crank lift pump not running and injectors not doing there pretty firing sound. I don't have anything to check fuses with me just going to tow it to my shop and look at it tomorrow. But the fuse panel is not label at all so is there print out I can get of that? I'm a diesel tech so I'm not really to worried. Can't pull codes or Talk with my sct programmer so makes me think. ecm no power or fried,
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My 05 has Glowshift gauges on the window pillar. All are analog except the digital fuel pressure gauge. It almost always reads 102 and that can't be right. Sometimes when idling at a stop light it might go down to 95 for a few seconds. Maybe wire grounding out from sensor?
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Last week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
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I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
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I have been trying to figure my cruise control not working. I verified the switch for the brake pedal and the one on the master cylinder are not the problem. I have read about the clock spring but would like to verify signal is passing through/ not before replacing.
2 Questions.
#1 I have is how does the overall system work? Ok not that in depth but, is there some kind of servo that regulates the flow to,the injectors or is it strictly controlled by the PCM? and it tell the injectors to open to allow fuel to pass.
#2 Looking for a wiring diagram for the cruise control control circuit. Namely looking to verify switches are working.
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I was driving my truck and my power windows quite working I figured it was a fuse so I wasn't to excited about it I stopped and unloaded some scrap metal and then when I started my truck back up I couldn't shift it out of park unless I unplugged the brake pedal sensor or turned the key just out of the off position then shifted to neutral then started then I could put it in gear and go so I got home and started looking checked all my fuses all good then I realize the windshield wipers are not working either and the door beeper, if you have your keys in the ignition also isn't working the horn, isn't working the lights on the window and lock switches isn't working either so I'm kinda lost now gonna barrow a relay tester in the am but I'm kinda thinking maybe the computer ?? For all this to happen at one to,e doesn't make any sense to me that's a lot to all go in one shot it makes more sense to me
No horn
No power windows
No accessory lights on the window and lock switches
No wipers
No buzzer/beeper (like when you open the door and leave the keys in the ignition
Won't shift out of park without doing it with the engine off or the brake pedal position sensor unplugged
I've gone thru with a test light and got power to the fuses for everything but still nothing
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I have a 2005 6.0 f350 lariat... My climate control doesn't switch very well I can get it to go to floor sometimes after 15min of pressing the button. The vacuum pump is good the tank has no cracks. I feel that the system is either plugged up or has a leak. I cleaned the tank after my hub seals went and it sucked a ton of dust and dirt through my wheel bearings in to the tank. Is the vacuum switching part of the digital display? Or is there a separate part?
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I have a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3.
I have been having a no crank, no start issue off and on for a while. batteries are new, cables are new, connections are clean, and starter has been rebuilt and checked. I bought a "starter relay" which i thought was the top solenoid in this picture. I also replaced the lower solenoid in the picture. The bottom solenoid was replaced with what im sure is the correct replacement. The upper I think is wrong. It started but then shut down and will not restart. The upper solenoid also was very hot after it shut down.
Long story short what is the upper solenoid for? Im assuming its not the starter solenoid. If so where is the Starter solenoid on a 2002 7.3?
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I'm having some issues with my 99 ranger. It all started on my way to work one afternoon. Going down the road I started to smell some type of electrical burning smell. I looked at my instrument cluster and seen a trail of smoke come up between the steering wheel and ins cluster from under and gear selector covers. After that the O/D off light started flashing and downshifting hard. My pwr windows and dome light also quit working. Checked fuse #26 and all my fuses before going into work that afternoon, all of them were good and none blown. After shift was over that night going home I needed to use the wipers and they wouldn't work either. Also noticed then that my speedo, odometer and trip odometer not working. I've pulled my dash and steering covers off trying to find or see anything but nothing yet.
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I have a 2000 7.3 f450 having some electrical issues. When you turn the key on sometimes the dash will start ticking and left side light flashing...engine will turn over but it won't start. The ticking is coming from under the hood relay 32 (you can hear and feel it clicking). Book says its injector driver module power relay. A lot of the times it will start fine other times it will be running and just die (prob because of this issue) happened once when I was driving.
What to check here already replaced the relay still have the problem.
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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I was driving on highway about 55MPH when I lost power suddenly. I was able to pull off, but did not have power brakes or power steering. Gas tank was near 1/4 gallon on the gauge, but sometimes my gauge is wrong, as I've run out 2x when I should have still had a few gallons in it.
At first I thought CPS, but I didn't have a spare with me to swap. Well, after an hour or so, I cranked it, and it would turn over but not even try to start. I floored the gas pedal and it fired up and I was able to get home.
During the no start issue, there was no oil pressure reading on the gauge and the tach was not moving, even though it was turning strong. There was no white smoke that I could see either.
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have my truck idling in the driveway while doing a coolant flush and it developed a weird idle. It will idle fine for a while then all of a sudden it will idle up a little for about 3 seconds then go back down. It will do this 3-4 times then go back to a regular idle for a while. I got in and watched my SCT X4 to see if anything changes. My actually RPM didn't change and neither did my fuel pressure or anything but my turbo added about 1.5 pounds of boost when it does it. It happens about every 4-5 minutes.
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My truck started fine my truck was running good. One morning while working from a hotel I went to start it in the morning and it started and stalled more than a few times but eventually ran fine later it did the same thing. The next morning it would not crank at all. I deduced it was the ficm and ordered a replacement the dash was acting funny and tach dropped before it died. I ran the. Test on the dash it swooped the gauges acted fine. I checked and wiggled sensors wires. I also checked were a splice at the crank sensor was it looked good then I bought a meter and the ficm seemed to have the correct volts it was a upgrade. Had 57volts at 1 screw koeo and while cranking.
PCM and replacing the crank and cam sensors. I don't really think it is the harness it will now crank and shut off crank and shut off like it did at first. He said it's stalling because it looses ficm sink. I haven't put new ficm on it ...the harness was allot better than the first. Could the crank sensor splice be wrong it is done its soldered together and heat shrink ... is it the ficm or the dash. I'm out of my comfort level I was also reading it only needs ficm sink to start. Not run. In addition #2 injector is throwing a code. I asked him if he thought the fuel was getting pressurized and his reply was the fuel has nothing to do with ficm sink. Also, I swapped relay out with my other 6.0. And its running fine This is everything I got ....
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Truck is bucking and missing every 10 seconds or so and will stall when taking off in drive sometimes but fires right back up? I got a lot of codes in the torque pro app but some are in grey. Not sure what that means. EGR has been deleted so that's why I got those codes. I was cleaning the back of the truck the other day and found a can of quick start . Guess that might be why i got codes for glow plugs also. I'm gonna post up pic of my codes and numbers of truck running at idle in drive. So far I see I got a code for cylinder 6 contribution? It's in grey tho whatever that means.
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This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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This after 20 seconds of idle. I can see it squirting but can't see where it comes from?
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Popped the hood after smelling fuel and it was dripping about every 30 seconds. Before I order parts can you steer me in what it might be. Was going to do blue spring mod soon but is there more?
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