05 6.0 will only start if I cycle the glow plugs, crank 3 seconds shut off glow again then it starts immediately. If I try to glow 2 cycles with out cranking it won't start either. When he truck is hot it seams to start easier. I have new batteries new alternator running 5-40 synth. New glow plug control module. It does it hot or cold weather.
View 7 RepliesBrother in law company 6.0 died on him in his driveway after a night of plowing
It stalled out, his boss sent out a "tech" and he said it doesn't have "nearly enough" oil pressure
Now I want to further diagnose the truck myself with my scan gauge II but haven't used it for that......yet......
What should I check for IPR pressure psi or %?
I know I can get ICP pressure in PSI on my SCT x4 not sure about the Scan Gauge......
I assume a blown IPR or failed STC fitting......
Truck is a 2005..... I can figure out the scan gauge I just need to know what to look for for an idea of a blown IPR or STC or ICP.
I have a 05 with 100K miles on it. I had the HPOP, FICM and EGR delete do about a year ago. Went to start the truck pressed the pedal and it died and won't start. It dies once while driving about a week ago but restarted. I have a Snap-on scanner for the data. FICM tested good and getting fuel to secondary filter. Batteries and filters are new with about 2K miles on them. Would this data point to a bad IPR?
ICP V KOEO = .25V
ICP V Cranking = .28V
ICP_DSRD 1251 PSI Cranking
IPR Duty 15% KOEO
IPR Duty Cranking 85%
2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
- Changed both fuel filters
- Checked for water in the fuel
- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?
So, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
View 5 RepliesI have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
View 11 RepliesOK here we go it all started with a long crank and now no fire. I changed cam sensor wiggled wires got to fire , shut off than nothing . Changed wire from cam sensor to about 6" from ecu found small nick in wire. Swapped ecu no good... I am getting my numbers from torque app.
ficm sync = 0
RPm = 172
FLP = 12
fmp =49
Hpop = 1823 max
Ipr = 80.9 max stready at 48
ipr volt =.02 at rest
Also tested fuel pressure at filter 80 psi ( blue spring)
ficm sent to ficm repair, tested good
cam sensor changed , pig tail also
bubble test on fuel filter no thing there
So any thing else to check or am i looking at a harness change?
So my recently purchased 2005 f350 has an abnormal long crank. I searched all the internet and everything pointed to STC fitting. Well I knew I had some other things I wanted to knock out so I ended up buying an update kit from sinister diesel. It included an updated fitting, new degas cap, updared turbo oil feed and return lines, blue spring update, and "dummy" tubes or something like that.
During the last few days I have removed the turbo, and finally got to the hpop. As I was removing the turbo I thought I might have the updated lines as there was no braided area in the feed tube. Sure enough I pulled the hpop and I have the one piece fitting. So now that I have wasted all this time removing all this stuff for no reason I still don't know what is causing my long crank. I am going to probably install the new fitting and lines anyway but where do I go from here?
The truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
View 14 Replies I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
2003 6.0, all stock. Crank, no start with an occasional sputter when it actually shows FICM SYNC = YES.
It had the following relevant DTCs when I scanned it:
P0261, P0270, P0276 and P0279 - Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 - Injector circuit low
P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger boost control A performance
P2614 - CMP Open circuit
P2617 - CKP Open circuit
CMP/CKP SYNC transitions to and maintains YES while cranking, however FICM SYNC transitions back and forth between YES and NO while cranking. When it transitions to YES, a cylinder or two will fire when FIPW comes up, but FICM SYNC almost immediately transitions back to NO.
Based solely on the scan tool results, Cranking shows IPR DC at about 50%, ICP PSI ~1500, ICP V ~2.0. These are stable and steady. FICM main power is at 49.5v and drops to 49.0 when it fires the occasional injector while cranking. RPM reads above 150 while cranking.
I'm thinking that since CMP/CKP SYNC stays YES and is stable and RPM reading is consistent, the CMP & CKP sensors and circuits are most likely good. I'm thinking with the codes for injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 it probably points more toward a FICM issue.
Another thing that may or may not be relevant is the pre-cycle clatter sounds off to me. With an ambient temp of about 70F, the pre-cycle seems to repeat 3 times. The second and third cycles sound worse than the first. This is in the video below.
I work on far more 7.3s than I do 6.0s, so I'm looking for anything I may have overlooked, a second/third/fourth opinion, or if there's a flaw in my logic for someone to point it out.
6.0 No Start - YouTube
I had a crank no start with very low hpo pressure. I went to do an air test and could not get my IPR valve to do anything with 12 volts applied. I have a switch wired to it, and went as far as wiring the IPR valve directly to the battery and got nothing. This is a brand new ipr valve, never seen a mile of driving, and I'm wondering if my luck could really be bad enough to get a bad one in the box, or if it could be my truck that's frying them. I have cranked on it a lot trying to start, but I have a feeling this IPR is to blame. I'm on my way to get a warranty replacement now. If my truck could frying them, would that be just a bad ground or what? Any way to test my wiring? I have a multimeter...
View 14 Replies2004 6.0 truck ran fine parked it, went out next morning and has been a crank no start. Brand new ficm put in today. Also scangauge readings while cranking.
IPR DUTY 30%
ICP -1000+
ICPV-.2 and rises
FICM-49.5 Never drop below 48
FICM LOGIC-11.5V And it also drops to 9 volts cranking
FICM SYNC-Yes
CAM/CRANK SYNC-Yes
I can here fuel pump running and have checked the bowl and fills in 3 second, also have held valve down in oil filter housing and it fills up in 4 seconds. Oil level perfect half tank fuel .. Also I get no smoke from tail pipe while trying to crank. Acts like it not firing or has no fuel... Driving me crazy been working on it for three weeks.
Just installed lots of new parts on this late 04 6 liter HPOP, Stand pipes, nipple cup orings, head gaskets. and now she wont go. Just cranks. Doing an air test now, should I be able to hear anything form the oil fill tube? It builds oil pressure just not right away, I did have an icp code. but has gone away as of now (p2285). What's consider a long crank time?
View 3 RepliesIhave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
View 7 RepliesMy 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
View 9 RepliesI am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?