2005 F-350 6L
Just changed my alternator, that was the easy part apparently...............
Cant get fan belt back on? My pulleys don't look the same as the picture under the hood. I can see a idler on passengers side down low, but cant seem to make it move to give me some slack.
What kind of tool to use on idler to get slack?
I am having an overcharging issue with my 2000 F350 diesel. It first started when I had a garage check the batteries due to poor starting this winter. They found one reading 6V and I had them replace it. After that the battery light came on. So I had them check it out again and they replaced the other battery. I can't remember if it started before or after the second battery but it started overcharging 16-17 volts according to the dash. I replaced the alternator still overcharging. Since then I have run a 4ga ground from one battery to the alternator and a 4ga ground wire from the other battery to the cab. I also checked most of the stock ground wires which all seem fine. Lastly, I also bought a ford alternator pigtail because one of the wires had cracked insulation and some corrosion. Currently it overcharges unless the battery light comes on which once it does the voltmeter in dash reads normal.
View 14 RepliesI put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
View 2 RepliesThe backlight for my fuel level and oil pressure dash gauges are out. Would that require a simple bulb replacement or if there is something more difficult to replace, i.e. entire panel? The red needles illuminate, it's just the gauges themselves that are dark. The truck is my 05 Super Duty in the siggy.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
So I changed my oil with T6 and archoil and immediate miss at around 1500rpm then it clears up. I can stomp on it after that and it's fine. I know this has happened to others. My last oil change was also T6 and archoil. 2005 F250, stock, atlas 40, 216,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesChanged the fuel filters. No issues in replacing.
Primed them by the book - key on 30 seconds 6 times
Now I have low pressure warning and reduced power.
All parts were FOMOCO...
OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
After 2yrs and 1mo, my DC power 270XP amp died. I put the almost 10 yr old factory alt back on and everything is good again, except for the glaring fact that I have a dead alternator. It is a month beyond warranty (of course).
Truck has been running great. Oil cooler, EGR bulletproof cooler, STC done in Dec at Ford due to high deltas. I have a small stereo - one 12" sub woofer, otherwise nothing that really stresses the electrical system. I did the "big three" with 1/0 copper - cost a fortune, saw no difference - but that could have been an issue for the alt.
I left a message today with etch support but did not get a call back. I hope they make good on this - I waited almost 4 mo's to get this thing and it was supposed to outlast my truck.
i just had my 190amp DC Power Alternator just died. It was about 4 yrs old. I ordered a new Bosh AL7606 I know it's 140amp but it was half the price and in stock on amazon also lifetime warranty. I'm thinking of moving the pulley from the DC Power to the Bosh. Any thoughts? I went to the DCPower website but they were sold out and twice the price. I might just get the DC Revuilt as a spare?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 F350 6.0. I had a flickering Battery lt on the dash last week so I replaced the Alternator. People recommended I upgrade to the 2005 140 amp alt from my stock 110. I have a single alt system. So I did, today it died on way to work. Batteries were drained. Had new alt checked and its fine. So All I have is a wiring diagram from 99-2002 but it shows the plug on the alt with 2 wires, Lt grn/red from switched ign and Org/Lt Blu which goes to batteries. Org/Lt blu has 12v but Lt green/Red has nothing with ign sw on. I did check fuse 45 in Central J box and have power there. I did notice I have no battery Lt on dash when you turn Ign sw on, and never got the Lt this morning when it died. What Im confused about is do I have a PCM? my diagrams that only go up to 2002 model show it for a 2 alt sys but not for a single alt. I should have power on Lt Grn/red with ign sw on correct? Everyone said 2005 alt was plug and play, the elec connector is now pointed down, where it was pointed up on the orig alt, look to be wired the same.
View 7 RepliesI just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
Getting ready to take my Truck in for the Radio turning offt. About half the time I start my truck the radio doesn't play sound, it's on but no sound. If I touch it or change the station then sound starts to come out, is this normal?
View 14 RepliesOk, so I have read on this subject and there are lots of posts about this being normal but why? What causes this? I have recently owned two 6.0's and neither of them had black oil even when I changed the oil! My last 6.0 a 2006 had oil that was nearly the same color out of the drain plug as the oil I was putting in! Why this happens on the 6.7.
View 10 RepliesWhat this part it is? It sits over the alternator on the driver side and looks like a couple vacuum hoses plug into it. Mine is making a very loud buzzing noise.
View 8 RepliesI changed both fuel filters on my 2015 F350 6.7 I turn the key online for 30 seconds then turned it off for total of 6 times when to start the truck this morning after driving it yesterday and it took a little bit longer to turn over before it finally did, did I miss something up that I do something wrong. So I let my truck warm up this morning after going to start it at took a little bit longer for it to turn over I turned it off wait a few seconds then turned it back on and she started up how she used to perfectly fine does it just need to go through a drive cycle. This is the second fuel filter replacement nothing was wrong with the other ones I'm at 40000 miles now ... also it seems like the fuel filter on the frame rail is louder if you put the filter in upside down on that will it fit stupid question I'm sure I did it right but thought I'd ask before I tear it apart....
View 14 RepliesSwapped a new oil cooler and welded Egr shut. Truck ran fine the first 3-4 times I started it except for exhaust leak at the y-pipe/turbo connection. Tried to start it today and it started then ran real rough, blowing whit smoke. Now it will not start at all and blows whit smoke. The only codes I'm getting are egr codes that I've always had due to having the 05 and up intake elbow and the egr turned off via sct. What could be the issue?
View 8 RepliesI have a 06 F250 6.0 My battery light has been coming on. Doesn't stay on but I'm planning a trip back east and don't want any issues to occur. I was thinking maybe the batteries. So I stopped at the local Oreilly's Auto store and had them tested. Told the guy what it was doing and he said it sounded like the alternator. He tested it and said it was going bad. He also tested the batteries and said they were good. So I went looking for a replacement alternator and they have different amp sizes. So I'm not sure on what size the original one is and if the replacement should be a bigger size amp wise.
View 11 RepliesI ve been noticing that the alternator isn't charging correctly, or at least it seems like it. We drive short trips sometimes two times a day, a mile or less. One day, night actually, I noticed it started to not turn over with it's usual enthusiastic sound. When the batteries get discharged to a certain point, the voltage at idle will be less than 12 volts. If I rev the engine for a bit, the volts jump up, but at idle it drops back to 12 or below. Seems to me that it should be at least 12v or above if the batteries are discharged, and more towards 12.5ishV if the batteries are fully charged.
After I put it on a 6A charger overnight, the voltage upon starting is above 12, sometimes over 13. But if the batteries start to dwindle down from short trips, the voltage drops to 12 or below at idle.
I did install the smaller pulley a few years back, and that worked massively. I couldn't get 12V at idle before installing the smaller pulley. But now it seems like I'm back to that same situation before installing the smaller pulley.
So, I m guessing that a alternator bench test is in my future? The batteries are fairly new, tho they have been down to nothing at least twice from boneheaded moves by yours truely!
And, I'm speculating that this charging situation contributed to the recent FICM replacement that I went thru.
I am having a charging system issue. The alternator is making barley over 12 volts. With KOEO the battery light on the instrument cluster does not come on. I have already replaced both batteries and the alternator -before i noticed the battery light is not coming on.
View 2 Replies2011 F250 6.7 Had the fuel filters changed by the dealer today. No noticeable sounds when I left the dealership, & no fuel stops on the way home (120 miles one way). When I got home, before shutting off the truck, I heard a loud groaning/singing from inside the truck. With the truck still running, I get out, & the groaning/singing is very pronounced....never heard this before & appears to be emanating from the fuel filter underneath the truck.
I turned the truck off, then turned the key back to the position that the fuel pump turns on, and wow, the pump is very loud. Definitely something going on because when I turn the key for the pump to turn on but not start the truck, I can feel the vibrations of the pump working from inside the truck and when listening from underneath the truck, it is very loud. Before today, the truck never made this noise and never heard the pump before.