Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Bottle Rocket Like Noise At Startup
Feb 20, 2016
2005 w/ 188,000 miles, A/T. Zero driveability issues. Torque Pro shows VGT % changing as expected, but I think that's just a commanded %, not a measured %.
So for the last month or so, every time I start my truck, I hear a noise about 3-4 seconds later that lasts about half a second. It sounds like a bottle rocket shooting up into the air (that whistle/scream sound). It happens whether I'm in my 55'F garage with the block heater plugged for a few hours (coolant temp 80-100F), or if it's sitting in the parking lot at work at 20'F all day.
I'm guessing the turbo needs to be cleaned (unison ring sticking?) but want to just get a few quick opinions if that's the right direction to go.
I found there's a $60 Ford brand cleaning kit with some new seals and the 3M sanding discs, so I think I'd do that. Plus, I read there's a new/updated turbo oil drain tube I should install while its apart.
So the big questions I have are: is it likely I need a turbo cleaning, and what else should I do at the same time? Oil drain update? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
And because this thread is worthless without a pic, here I am leading the charge to Rausch Creek last summer!
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I was day dreamimng and the fuel pump this mornin and by accident dumped 32 ounces (whole bottle) of Stanadyne and then pumped 33 of 38 gallons of diesel to fill her up. Thats double the spec of what I should have used. Do I need to worry about anything or no big deal?
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OK here we go it all started with a long crank and now no fire. I changed cam sensor wiggled wires got to fire , shut off than nothing . Changed wire from cam sensor to about 6" from ecu found small nick in wire. Swapped ecu no good... I am getting my numbers from torque app.
ficm sync = 0
RPm = 172
FLP = 12
fmp =49
Hpop = 1823 max
Ipr = 80.9 max stready at 48
ipr volt =.02 at rest
Also tested fuel pressure at filter 80 psi ( blue spring)
ficm sent to ficm repair, tested good
cam sensor changed , pig tail also
bubble test on fuel filter no thing there
So any thing else to check or am i looking at a harness change?
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I've been having issue with my truck lacking boost over the past month or so. The psi levels are normal in the morning when I start it up cold, the problem almost always occurs at start-up when the truck is somewhat warm and has been sitting for an hour or more after use. I've had boost levels at idle from -0.14psi to -0.56psi and as low as -1.2psi when driving as the problem is occurring, but it eventually kicks on and goes to normal levels after several minutes of driving. After originally taking the truck to a local diesel mechanic I was told it had EGR codes and they recommended installing an SCT tuner and cleaning the EGR valve to solve the problem. I had them install an SCT 5015 tuner and clean the valve but I've still been having the problems with boost.
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05, 170k miles. Studded and egr delete but I don't have paperwork on either. Got a pretty good deal on the truck but I have a few questions..
It runs and starts great, warm and cold, with only a little blue smoke on cold startup. but every now and then when idling (say at a stoplight) the engine gets noticeably rougher, not terrible. No smoke. Goes away after 5-10 seconds.
When I remove the oil cap, there is a "puffing" blow by, not constant, and its not enough to blow the cap off if I set it on backwards. Just puffing.
This may be related, but I pulled the starter wire off the drivers side and touched it to the battery to hear how it cranks, and there is a noticeable blip in the cranking, its not 100% smooth.
Don't think I am losing any coolant. Runs great, getting 15MPG. No CEL. I went and had a relative comp. check done, cylinder 7 is the problem. We both are leaning toward there being a valve problem So I pulled the valve cover, now I have a few questions.
1. When I crank the engine over without starting, I can hear a "pfft....pfft....pfft" chug of air every revolution. I pulled the cover to see if I had a obvious rocker problem, but can't see anything because the oil rail is in the way. I'm guessing this air puff is sign of a valve problem?
2. When the truck is running, there is a small, steady stream of oil running down the rail and dripping onto the valve cover mating surface of the head, I think it was at every injector, definitely 2 of them. Was getting dark, so hard to see. Is this normal, or do I have a leak? Truck has updated dummy plugs.
My next step is probably going to be pull the rail, see if there is a obvious problem, then pull the head. And tips for me? Planning on having the HVAC evacuated then pulling the airbox.
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I have a 2006 6.0 with 165,000 miles. No over heating runs fine ,no smoke but I have oily foam in my degas bottle. No coolant in my oil. Scratching my head over this.
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I have coolant leaking from under my degas bottle. There was a spot on the driveway this morning and upon investigation, I saw a drip hanging from the bottom of the degas. No liquid on top at all. Where this is coming from? Bottom hose?
Also, the boot that connects the tube (right side while looking at front of truck) to the elbow that goes into the intake is leaking oil and making a mess. Whats the best way to fix? Remove boot, clean up, and put back on? Or replace boot? If replace, where can I get that boot?
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Just bought a used 2011 ford f350 with the 6.7 diesel engine. Coming from a 7.3 1999 f350 with 330,000 miles, still going good. Took a 1000 mile trip on the 11 truck with out pulling anything did good. Hooked my enclosed trailer to it did a trip of 900 down and 900 back. Transmission temps were staying around the 250f, almost in yellow on gauge. Highest it went was 255f. Light never came on. Yesterday on trip without trailer was staying at 230f on trans temp. This is the first concern.
Second concern, had antifreeze coming out the cap on the degas bottle. Rolled over the hood and hit the drivers side windshield. Stopped un did the cap, it hissed. Put 2 quarts of antifreeze in drove on, this at 300 miles of trip. Primary water pump went out, half way there, at about 550 miles of trip. On trip back, about 1600 miles of trip, antifreeze was on windshield again. Undid cap, hissed, did not need to add any to it. Drove on no problems since. Have bought a new cap and installed.
Transmission doesn't want to shift right when its cold. First starting out. When it warms up shifts great. That's third problem.
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I was towing my camper uphill and my 03 6.0 started missing and blowing black kid smoke. Next thing I know I hear a loud pop and steam is coming from under the hood and the truck dies. I pull over and discover the degas lid is stuck on and the bottle came apart at the the seam and the truck will not start. 6.0 with 120k miles
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How can I tell if the turbo is going? it has a whirl noise after warm up. Boost seems a little slow and seem to have more noise coming from the air filter inlet. I put the Auto Enginuity on and have no codes.
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2005 F250 195k miles. The truck has developed a howling noise comeing from what sounds like the driveline. It is most apperant at slow speeds with the windows up. It almost sounds like tire growling on the pavment but I can also hear it driving through the grass.
The last vehichle that i heard this from was my dd and ended up being a pinion bearing.
I put it on jack stands, removed the tires axles and driveshaft, spun the pinion yoke by hand it feels smooth. I also checked the rear hub bearings and they feel fine also. With the axles out and it up on jack stands i ran the truck and could still hear the noise. It almost sounds like it is comeing out of the T case output. The T case is a NP 271(manual shift).
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I have a 2005 F250 with 186K miles. I do minor work on my vehicles but have little experience working on my diesel. I was accelerating when I heard a pop and a hiss similar to disconnecting an air hose from an air compressor. Total loss of turbo power. No turbo reading on the turbo gauge on dash. No loss of oil. No smoke. Oil and coolant look fine. Took off turbo and everything appeared to operate like it should (according to YouTube videos). Inspected lines and rubber boots.
Rubber has some cracks but not certain if they are holes. How small/large of a hole would cause total loss? Was originally scared to take it to a shop knowing they could name their price. Not opposed to taking it somewhere now knowing the turbo works but obviously would rather save the money. Any tips on troubleshooting? I'm not opposed to proactively replacing parts/sensors as the truck has given me 186k and I plan to keep it as long as possible.
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2005 ford f250 6.0 Started making this noise from front about a month ago, can't figure out what it is. Only happens when letting off accelerator or changing from P - D. The truck acts normal, seems to be louder when the truck is warm.
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This morning I noticed when I started the truck had a rough idle shaking truck. The truck felt weak. Boost would go up but truck felt like it was in sand. While coasting on the highway at 50-55mph the truck not only lags in power but vibrates viciously until the overdrive kicks in that vibrations in cab and ssteering wheel go away.. What might be going on?
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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two days ago i noticed First start in the morning the truck billows out blue smoke. In mean is enough that looks like an old 2 stroke dirt bike. Quite alarming. I've had HHS in for 4300 miles or so. I hope I did not mess the engine up by towing With the HHS in there. The injectors have been getting loud an indication that i need to change the oil again. The truck always gets louder when nearing oil change time. It reminds me of an old chevy with bad valve seals. Would turbo seals just go. The smoke goes away after driving maybe 2 min well i can't see it while driving. Truck runs smooth doesn't stutter or miss. It has been acting like the stiction is happening upon first starting after sitting for 6+ hours.
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My wife's 2011 F-350 on start up, will sweep the gauges from one side to the other. My 2012 doesn't, is that normal?
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Get the message every time at start up and won't go away. It doesn't seem to be working when I back up near something. If one sensor goes does the whole system shut down? Also It won't let me check the "ON" box for the park aid.
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The past month or two, my garage-kept 2011 F350 6.7 with 38K miles will shudder on startup for a second or two or three then runs normal. What would be causing that? She is my every day driver, but I don't drive her every day. Seems that the longer she sits, the rougher the startup. Last time I drove her was Monday. Started her up tonight to run to the store and she shuddered for about three seconds.
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Im lost here, my 6.0 is building coolant pressure on start up, and the temperature is not overheating. I cant tell if the pressure is staying high while driving, but its blowing coolant passed the cap. Thermostat? The truck was on a coolant pressure tester for 24 hours and never lost a pound of pressure.
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When I start my truck up initially and it's somewhat cold, like even if it hasn't run for just a few hours, it seems to gargle when I get on it. I'm not slamming it while it's cold but even just trying to accelerate. Code is egr flow insufficient, the truck isn't egr deleted, I've had it for 150,000 it's got 211 now. I just clean out the egr every 15-20k and it's been great until now. Once it warms up it sounds and runs perfect.
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