Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Turbo Would Not Spool Until Revved The Engine Hard
Feb 25, 2014
It started after a blue spring upgrade. my turbo would not spool until we revved the engine hard then it kicked in and it's kinda worked since then.. it feels like the truck is struggling on acceleration and the boost builds fast up to 30lbs, the EBP seems to be stuck at 21.48psi until your in 3rd then it jumps and I have power again, also the turbo dumps (farts) if I let off even a little until the EBP jumps then no issues. I replaced the sensor and it's stuck at 21.48 all the time.
Now, I unplug it and it jumps between 26 and 28psi, plug in the old sensor while it's out laying on the motor (not installed) and right back to 21.48. I don't know where to go with this and it's my only truck so I need it running. also it was blowing the intercooler boot off at the turbo during a normal acceleration and the turbo spool has a howl to it when EBP is stuck...
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My friends 2004 6.0 f250 has 280000 miles on it and it runs perfect "did" until I tuned it with my sct tuner to run a looney tune so he could see what it was like. The truck started he revved it up to 3'000 rpm then when it returned to idle it acted like someone shut the key off. The high pressure oil system is new and has 700 psi and the icp is good also the ipr. The truck Is not getting any fuel at all, no smoke from cranking at all. It is returned to stock and is still being difficult. It has fuel I checked the upper fuel filter, it has enough oil, and it also has a good motor just don't fire. Why?
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I just picked up a 2006 F250 6.0. It was having hard starts. Anyways before I started using it I started tearing things apart cause I knew for sure the turbo was leaking so that had to be resealed. I just picked up a 2003 turbo today for it out of a used truck that had 144000 kms on it. (was in an accident). I am gonna post up a few pics here of the engine bay area, there is a huge amount of old oil I believe to be, I am wondering if it was a leak or spilled oil. I am going to be cleaning this up. Putting 03 turbo in here, doing a service and then plug my Tablet with torque pro and post up some numbers and see how healthy she is. Before I post any pics Is there a way to make these pictures clickable instead of them taking room up on the page?
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My truck when idling kind of spools up a little bit for a few seconds and then the turbo goes back down. sounds really cool actually. its been doing it since the truck was new, sounds like a plane engine shutting down. It does it over and over sometimes. I just deleted the dpf and unplugged egr last night and now i can really hear it! is this normal....
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For a month or two now my truck has been making a squeal and the turbo has been sticking after hard acceleration. The sticking was a woebegone unison ring and I was hoping the squeal would be resolved when I cleaned the turbo but it didn't, in fact, it got worse.
It used to be occasionally and go away after warming up, but now it's more constant than not. It goes away when the VGT does its idle cycle and once you get up to speed.
Here's the sound - YouTube.....
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This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
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While diagnosing a low power and misfire condition on my 04.5, I was measuring coil resistance at the injector connectors. Found 1,3,7 had open circuits for one of the solenoids. 3 bad injector coils and no codes, no contribution codes... Why?
Anyway, pulled it apart to find the spool valves of 1 and 3 came out with the oil log the small bolts that hold them to the bodies had broken off. #7 only 1 bolt had broken off and the other was there but loose.
I got this truck with no history, and Had a variety of issues, like a bad fuse box that caused a no start, massive amounts of water in the fuel, and it had sat for 6 months untouched before I got it. I took care of the previous problems search for my previous posts if interested.
So what caused the spool valve to get blown off the bodies? I'm not sure if these have been rebuilt or ever removed, truck has 135 k. Could it be the water in the fuel that seized the intensifier piston?
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0. Lately it seems like the motor just doesn't have the boost it should. Funny thing is that the boost reading through the edge cts seems to be right. Under full acceleration it will pull 27 psi boost and 3900+ ICP pressure. No codes are being thrown. It just doesn't "feel" right (seat of the pants) and it also sounds louder but I don't known this for sure.
Where does the CTS get its boost reading from? The truck has new boots on the hot side from riffraff. Anything I can check?
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Ok so I just replaced the oil cooler, added 2 coolant filters, changed the oil/filter, and both fuel filters, and installed the updated turbo drain tube. I get it all back together, it takes a minute before it will fire but I figured that was normal for not having any oil in the sump under the cooler and changing both fuel filters. Everything seems fine, checking for leaks and I notice that I don't hear the whistle of the turbo so I go look at my edge CT and have zero boost and it stays at zero even if I rev it a bit. Obviously I didn't redline it or run it for very long maybe a total of 10 minutes over several times.
I will note that I did find a plug for the driver side injectors wasn't plugged in the first time I started it, but I shut it down pretty quick and plugged it in. So then after I noticed the turbo not spooling I used the chip to pull the codes and had a whole bunch related to the unplugged harness and one for turbo underboost. Figured it was because the harness was unplugged so I just cleared the codes and tried again, now I'm not getting any codes but I'm also not getting any turbo boost the only code that it is throwing is the P1000 "on-board diagnostic systems readiness test not complete" do I need to go drive it for the learning sequence because I had the batteries disconnected for a couple days?
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The 2004 and 2005 turbo is interchangeable and can you replace the bearing in it.
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I have an '04 6.0 and it doesn something strange. When for example I am going up a decent grade hill and passing, if I have to let off the throttle and then re apply, the turbo won't build boost, it sits at a couple pounds for a few seconds. Then after a few seconds it will build boost quickly again and work generally as normal. If it doesn't respond and I really need to get it to build boost NOW, if I push the accelerator to the floor, the delay shortens and it will often kick down a gear and then build boost. So if I gently accelerate, very slow to recover, if I hammer it, much quicker but regardless, when it's happening it's almost always the same situation, fully warmed up truck, warm/cold/freezing day and it happens when I back off and re apply. Thinking maybe a worn unison ring but not sure..
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I went out to the store today all was fine came back out and started driving got 2 miles down the road to a red light and the truck about stalled no power it doesn't smoke at idle but revved up it blows black and some white and the truck shakes. I am thinking its stiction or bad FICM????
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Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
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My friend is working on a 2004 6.0 F-250 and it has used 75% of the coolant in the overflow bottle in 5 days. Can't smell coolant either. The inside of the tailpipe is wet soot black and there are wet spots on the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo at the turbo and the intercooler. He's thinking EGR cooler.
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I bought my 04 6.0 from my parents a few years back and had it gone through as soon as I bought it. I got it studded, a new hpop, new oil cooler, 8 new Alliant injectors, and an sct livewire. A few months later my oil temp kept getting high and eventually it caused an injector to go out. Took it back to the guy who originally did the work and he warrantied it.
He said the oil cooler got clogged up on the coolant side. Replaced an injector and the oil cooler and it ran for another couple months before doing the same thing again. Had the oil cooler and injector replaced again and it ran fine until the number 7 injector went out and I had to replace it myself since the guy who was doing the work on my truck decided to pack up his shop and leave basically overnight.
When I got under the valve cover I noticed that the number 7 injector pigtail was different colors than the other injectors so I'm not sure what kind of work had been done to it after all, if he'd been mixing injectors or what, all I know is what he told me he had done. The truck currently has 157k on it. whenever I go to start it my injection oil pressure spikes to anywhere from 1600-1800 and the truck attempts to run but then the truck falls on it's face and the injection pressure will not get above 350-400 for about 10 to 20 seconds of cranking.
Then the oil pressure hand on my dash moves and the injection pressure goes up again and the truck cranks. After the truck is running it has a miss that most of the time goes away as the truck warms up. Im starting to believe that maybe the hoop is going out again but I'm unsure. I'm a heavy diesel mechanic so the huei injection system isn't my forte, but I do have access to just about any tool needed.
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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I just bought an early 04 (01/04) and it starts hard when it's cold. It starts just fine when it's warm. It idles a little rough it seems and it's putting out white smoke, but not too thick. There are no codes on the truck.
I performed the "bubble test" and got no bubbles at all. I have found that it is common for oil rail o rings and dummy plugs go bad and I'm being told that is what the problem is.
Could the oil rail seals be the problem? It makes sense to me only because there are no codes and I feel anything else would have thrown a code.
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I have a 01 7.3 F-350, 120000. I rarely get down hard on the go pedal but a while back I did and heard at pressure whistle just before it would shift. I thought a bad turbo hose so I replaced them all. 'While working on the hose mounts I cleaned up the castings for a better seal'. The hose replacement seemed to get the running but the whistle is still there. I am thinking a leak on the manifolds for the Y-Pipe connection OR does the turbo have a release valve that can make a whistle sound?
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I have s 2007 f250 superduty with a 6.0. Recently after the engine gets warm I have a problem restarting it. I have to turn the key to the run position until all sounds have stopped then I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. Sometimes I have to repeat this three or four times before it starts. I have had the fuel pump rebuild and installed two new batteries. What I should be looking at.
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When the engine is working hard and the head (s) unseat, where does the coolant go, in the oil, to the atmosphere or both?
There are times when I am pulling heavy ( 18 to 20K+) pulling up a hill from a stop, and I can hear the engine working hard, then I later check the coolant level and it has drop.
Where did it go?
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With the windows down today I notice that the turbo spool sounds like a damn laser. Boost leak or bearing. That is the question.
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