Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Sluggish For First Mile?
Aug 23, 2015
When I first start it in the morning and go to take off, It runs sluggish and doesn't smoothen out for the first 1/2 to 1 mile. It then seems to run fine. I have no clue as to what to start checking. The temperature was 65 degrees out, so I don't think that was a factor. I don't know if it's and fuel problem or trans issue, or what. I'm clueless at the moment. It had a recent oil change and fuel filter(s) change. Was doing it before then. 2004 F-250 Super Duty CC 6.0
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My 2016 F350 is in the 500 mile def countdown. Not sure why. There is 5500 miles on it. At about 3K miles, I got the under half full indication, so I put 2.5 gallons in, and it reset. Now at 5500, I am getting the under 500 miles countdown, so I bought a couple 2.5 gallon jugs of DEF. Only one would go in. Countdown is still occurring.....
I'm camping, am less than 500 miles from home, but don't want to be stranded...
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What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
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So after I've been driving for a while and stop at a light or drive thru, I will give it throttle and it seems like it wants to stall. Almost like the turbo isn't spooling and then does and all is good again. Is this a sticking turbo bearing or something else? I am not very familiar with this motor(although I have been doing a ton of searching on here) as I just got it about two weeks ago. I should mention that I am getting the 404 and 405 codes so not sure if that could be involved with the egr?
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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Can a bad or lazy VGT solenoid cause a P132B code? I just recently had the turbo cleaned and the VGT solenoid replaced about 3 months ago. The truck is a bit sluggish at take off. Is there anyway to check the solenoid to see if its bad?
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I've come to the conclusion that after 300,000 miles my turbo is sticking. I need to drive the truck up to my mechanic but he's 50 miles away 90% highway (really don't wanna pay the towing bill) would this hurt the truck any more or would it be okay? If it will hurt the truck more I'll get it towed but I'm trying to avoid that at all costs. I have drove it since the turbo began to stick but it is very sluggish and smokes a lot. As soon as I let off the pedal boost immediately drops to 0 psi.
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I have researched this online and it seems everyone leans towards a custom tune after this upgrade? It ran like a raped ape before the old stock turbo took a crap!
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 that I bought in August of 2010. I have 35K miles on it and it has pretty much been trouble free once I got the firmware update for the shifting issues. I have the local dealership do all of my service work and all updates and service bulletins have been applied. Unfortunately on my way to work this morning the stupid Check Engine Light came on. The dealership has it now - hopefully I will know tomorrow.... I do think it has been running a little sluggish but I am not sure if that is the winter grade diesel (I use PM22-A in every single tank).
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Driving back from Baseball tonight, I stepped on the throttle truck was sluggish and a huge black trail out the exhaust. On and off the throttle a few times and no more smoke.
Checked codes when we got home and had p132b. I had this a month ago, replaced the map sensor and no issues. So am I looking at a turbo cleaning? Besides the unison ring, is there a seal and bearing kit? I am at 205k at this point and as far as I know the turbo is untouched.
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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Early 99 7.3 manual 6 speed. 224,000 miles. Truck starts great and runs great at idle. Starts out in gear just fine and seems to have plenty of power. It will act just like the key is turned off about a mile down the road. Will restart after extended cranking or letting it sit for 15 minutes or so. P1249, P0340, and P1280 codes pop up. Had a professional shop work on it and they changed out the CPS and IPC with factory parts. When i picked it up it had an SES light on but was running fairly well. When I looked under the hood the IPC had been cracked on the plastic part. Replaced it with another new one and it ran fine for 3 days, even pulling loaded hay trailer. Now when driving it, it cuts out for a second or two. It does that every couple miles until it stalls out completely. Restarts after 15 minutes and runs fine. Same codes are showing up.
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Here's what I'm dealing with. Took the truck on a 1500 mile trip with no issues. Got home and started it the next morning and it started right up. 1/2 mile from home it starts to run rough and wants to die. It does this for a few minutes and then perks back up and runs fine for however long the trip is. It will always re fire and have no issues. Every morning it's the same game as described above. Within 1/2 from home it's doing this. Seems to be fuel delivery related, but why would it start after sitting overnight, and then after its little fit, run without an issue?
No codes in computer.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have a 2004 F250. Owned it for a little less than 4 miles (186k on the odometer) .. The other day making a routine run and the radio goes out. Stopped to check it out and found I had no power windows either.
Made it home, checked the fuse on the radio and its good and the the power window fuse is also good. Put a meter on the terminals and have no voltage going to them. What I need to look at???
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and am having a serious issue. The truck has about 240,000 miles and has been great until now. About a week ago the truck was running great and had plenty of power. I decided to wash it with my pressure washer (did not spray under the hood, however I did spray in the front wheel wells and underneath the truck). About 5 minutes after washing the truck, I took it out for a drive and noticed when I really got on the accelerator the truck would not want to try harder and motor got very quiet. Really all you could hear was the turbo whistling. Over this past week the problem has gradually gotten worse... a few days ago I had to feather the pedal in order to go up hills. If I gave it more than about 1/4 inch of accelerator, the motor once again would get quiet and the truck would start to slow down and would not want to work.
However, if I let up and only gave it a small amount of accelerator, the motor would sound normal again and it would pull up the hill. Today, I can do nothing more than idle back and forth in the driveway because the motor gets quiet and the turbo winds up if you give it even the slightest amount of accelerator. I have no idea if it's a coincidence that this happened after washing the truck, or if maybe there was a sensor that was rotted and about to die and I finished the job with the pressure washer. I already replaced the egr valve and have been running tons of Howes diesel conditioner and anti gel through it. The injectors were replaced about 50,000 miles ago so I'd hate to think it was them. The truck doesn't smoke at all either.
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