Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 Slowly Got Harder To Start
Jun 1, 2017
Truck was starting good, then slowly got harder to start. Now it will not start. I do not know what to check next.
HPOP 3700
ipr 46
FICM 48V
rpm sounds good.
Injector pulse 0. not sure if I have torque app set up correctly for that one.
No smoke and I pulled the top fuel filter and drained the fuel. took about 3 seconds to fill the housing with fuel.
Air filter gauge says it is good.
Still checking where to go.
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So I have an '03 6.0 with 151000 and change. I go out to light her off in the morning and she fires quick and easy. Idles well and no complaints. But when hot shes sluggish to start. Now it's not what I would call a typical hard start considering I've watched videos on YouTube and guys are having a lot harder of a time then me getting theirs started. It's just not the same as cold it almost sounds like it's lacking fuel cause it starts real low after fire then with a couple revolutions it perks up. And this is without the key still in it. Again no idle or running issues at all. I've been trying to see if it could be my ipr? My ficm is new and never gets below 47V but idk what it is.
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This morning when attempting a cold start of my 05 6.0, it would not start was noticeably harder cranking. I had no CEL. I checked my scan Guage and the volts were 13.4 and fcm main power was 48.4. I checked and I had a p0405 code. What could be going on? I read that it can be a stuck or bad EGR valve? Could it be battery related?
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Replaced cups 3ish years ago
Replaced IPR (non- Motorcraft) and ICP last year
New (not remans) PIS Stage 1 injectors with Hydra Flash October
Truck has been running and starting (down to 19 degrees) like a dream since the new injectors. After the last fill up the truck has been harder to start in the morning and if I don't let it warm up till at least until the needle moves it will stall and be difficult to start. Once started and up to temp it runs just fine but will definitely take aa few extra turns to get started whether cold or hot.
There is CEL, I don't smell or see any diesel in the coolant, oil looks good and the diesel in the filter is kind of a clear blue? The way it acts when it stalls is kind of like when the IPR went bad the first time... kind of. The few times I was able to get my phone connected fast enough I saw and IPR duty cycle in the 90s flash and a HPOP pressure of 1500 or so flash all while the truck is barely hanging on to an idle.
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My e99 f250 has been getting harder and harder to start over the last year.
I think one of my batteries is dying or dead but it still cranks fast while it does.
For instance when I tried starting today it seemed to crank just like normal but their was some relay clicking inside the cab that was abnormal.
My understanding is aside from cranking no power is required to start the motor? what if the dead battery is taking some cranking amps from the good battery preventing the computer from getting juice?
would the truck throw a code if it was a glow plug?
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Background on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
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When I got my 2016 back at the end of last October, the pink coolant in the main degas bottle was just visible in the clear top half of the bottle. By the time 5k miles rolled around, the coolant was no longer visible in the clear section. At oil change time, the dealer "topped" it, resulting in it being visible in the tank again. 3k miles later, the coolant has disappeared below the clear part of the bottle again. What gives? The secondary bottle level has not budged. Its clearly not losing a lot, but it is definitely going down slightly.
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I have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
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My 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?
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Have 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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We have a 2004 6.0 that would not, start when hot. Now has been sitting awhile and still won't start. Have about 400 psi icp. Also this is a new motor that only has about 10,000 miles if that much. I would not, think the o-rings in the hpop system would have already failed, and being a new motor they should have the update with backup washers right? Unplugged the icp sensor and will not start. I have cup and CMC sync as well as ficm sync.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
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2004 f450 with 6.0. Was driving down the road when it started losing power like it was starving for fuel. It carried on for about a mile then died and will not start. No codes at all and we put a new fuel pump on but still wont start. Put a rag with gas in the air box and will run but rough.
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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First of all, I have 2004 f-350 92K miles with a stock 6.0 - EGR deletes and new oil cooler is the only updates.
Two weeks ago I had an issue pop up. When I tried to start from a dead stop there was no acceleration, it would idle ok but when i pressed on the peddle NOTHING! I called the local diesel guru, he recommended I change the fuel filters. After I did this there was a tremendous improvement in performance.
After a few days of normal driving, I noticed a subtle reduction in throttle response. Today I noticed a slight lag when accelerating which lasted about 3 miles until there is once again no acceleration. It will start normally and idle is a little rough, but will not accelerate even in park the engine is extremely slow to accelerate.
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2004 Excursion, won't start, just turns over. Pulled the cap off the fuel filter and it's filling fast so seems to be getting fuel. FICM replaced with a unit from Ed a year ago, along with a high output alternator, tests at 49 volts at key on, 48.5 cranking.
Truck started up fine last night, went for a drive with the family through Christmas lights. It has been running very rough at start and then smooths out after a few seconds. Went to start it up today and it just turns over, never fires. Unplugged the ICP on the passenger side valve cover and no improvement.
Pulled codes and had P0269, P0672, and P0676. Looks like a couple flow plug codes an injector contribution code.
What else can I check before pulling the valve covers?
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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Getting ready to fire this late '04 6 liter up tomorrow. Did HG and Studs,,etc.. My question is Oil Priming before start up, I saw the video on youtube about pulling a relay for the ficm, my owners manual only talks about a fuse for the ficm and its behind a panel on the dash. Did Ford wire these trucks differently?
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My 2004 powerstroke recently started making a loud knock during the process of starting. Will make the sound warm or cold, however I mostly hear it when the truck is warm as it cranks a little longer and about two seconds into the crank something starts knocking. After the truck starts it runs perfectly fine.
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