i bought a 04 f-550 the motor was blown and replaced with a motor from a 06 truck, before me buying it the truck can be driving along at any speed or last night just idling and will shut off let sit for 30 mins to over night it starts up no problem it doesnt have any codes new to the 6.0 world not sure where to start
View 7 RepliesGot a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
What is the typical delay for the base oil pressure "switch" on the dash to register? When I first start up in the morning it takes about 3-4 seconds for the oil pressure to register. Same day, every start after it registers pressure almost instantly. Is this normal?
I'm thinking something is draining down overnight, probably the drain valve in the oil filter housing isn't sealing correctly?
Is this a problem as the motor is running without oil to the main/cam bearings for that short time period?
I went thru not having the correct oil filter cap last year and with a non-stock cap & short Motorcraft that it would take 2-3 seconds every startup as it had to refill the oil filter housing every time.
Now running the stock Motorcraft "short" cap & filter.
My batteries go dead over night, had them checked but they say there good, can't figure out what's causing them to die.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 f350 6.0 and it makes 550 horsepower and lately when I go to started in the morning it'll start at once everything gets up to temperature if I shut it off it will not start again without starting fluid into the air box if it's warm...
View 2 RepliesWhat the coolant temp should be around after plugging in the block heater overnight? Not looking for an exact measurement since this can be affected by OAT and the length of time it has been plugged in. But when it's -15 to -20F this weekend I was wondering what to expect.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 i purchased a month ago. Its been cold in Denver this last month which is why I didn't mind it much. But now that its been in the 70s im concerned. Its always the first start up that it acts up. I go to turn the truck on and it starts idling for only a sec or two, then shuts off. I crank it about 3-4 times before it actually comes on and stays on. There is black smoke not white smoke once it starts to idle. Once idling it stays on and drives the way it should. If i try to start the truck again it will do so with out hesitation. I just did a tune up at grease monkey including fuel filters and oil filter. again its the first start up always.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a PS 6.0 in my '04F350 that starts very reliably but stalls within 1-2 seconds. Restarts after cranking for 5-30 seconds. This only occurs if the truck sits for more than 6 hours. The longer the truck sits, the longer it has to crank to restart. Also if the tank is full and the truck is parked pointing down hill this does not occur, if it is parked pointing up hill it occurs even with a full tank. Shows no codes. I've had several mechanics look at it and no one has been able to explain or propose a solution expect for wholesale replacement of parts. The symptoms indicate to me that air is getting into the fuel system but I'm not sure where to look.
View 10 RepliesI have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
My friends 2004 6.0 f250 has 280000 miles on it and it runs perfect "did" until I tuned it with my sct tuner to run a looney tune so he could see what it was like. The truck started he revved it up to 3'000 rpm then when it returned to idle it acted like someone shut the key off. The high pressure oil system is new and has 700 psi and the icp is good also the ipr. The truck Is not getting any fuel at all, no smoke from cranking at all. It is returned to stock and is still being difficult. It has fuel I checked the upper fuel filter, it has enough oil, and it also has a good motor just don't fire. Why?
View 3 RepliesMy truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
Got a 1986 Ranger 2.3 EFI 5 speed that I have owned since it was almost new and will never let it go. 290,000 mls and still running strong "except". Noticed the last couple of months that when I start it cold it fires right off. If I start it hot it always takes 3 tries and always goes on the third try except....on occasion it will not start at all. It is random and after I let it cool a bit (about 30 min) it will start. Over the years I have replace many of the fuel system components (fuel tank pump, high press. pump, inline filter and canister filter, fuel press regulator) but wondering what else might be the problem.
I put a pressure tester on it the other day and when I selected the key to start the pump would spool up to build pressure and shut off. The press gauge would register that but the pressure would immediately go back to zero. After start up it would hold a constant 30psi at all rpm,s. Shut the engine off and pressure drops right down to zero. Shouldn't the system hold pressure for at least a while after shut down? Could this be the problem with my sluggish starts? What would be the normal fuel pressure? Can't seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Once running it runs great.
Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
View 14 Replies2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
View 7 RepliesI just got 500 miles to empty message. On my next trip out I grabbed a 2.5 gallon at my local auto parts store. When I had 99.9 percent of the jug in, it actually started to spit back out. I got the rest in and figured I was done. It did seem strange that it only took 2.5 as I figured it was just about empty to get this message and 2.5 would only take me half way. Anyways, a few trips later and the message is still there. Do I have a bad level sensor or was it spitting out prematurely? Shouldn't 2.5 gallons have killed the warning even if it didn't fill it?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 f350 6.0 and it has a startup kit installed. When I start by using the key works perfect. But won't shut off by key! I have to use the stop button on key fob to kill the engine. I'm thinking relay might be stuck? And the relay on start up kit is working? Key removed it doesn't diesel down, it runs like key is still in.
View 12 RepliesJust to give you a run down on my truck. It's a 06 F-350 4x4 supercrew 6.0 with 78,994 miles. The trucks has been studded with Apr and aftermarket head gasket, Powermax turbo with a wicked wheel, RCD EGR delete kit, 5" turbo back MBRP exhaust, Driven Deisel regulated fuel return system, high REV valve spring kit, EBT sensor, 58volt swamps diesel FICM, edge evolution, within the last 4000 miles New oil cooler, crank sensor, cam sensor, IPR valve, ICP, batteries and lift pump. I think I'm missing a couple things but that's the layout.
Now for my problems recently took the truck to Florida from Illinois towing a 8500# boat. Before I left I had the oil cooler changed, Rotella T6 5w40 ,New filters And 2 bottles of REVX. The try k didn't miss a beat on the 1300 miles trek down. It sat for 3 days before coming back up lite truck. I was gonna drive straight thru and with 1100 miles down and 200 to go the truck acted like it was running out of fuel and died at 90mph. Fuel Gage read 1/2 tank to go.
After letting it site a 1/2 hr it finally fired back up and drove 5 miles before doing it again. This went on 3 more times. I even limped it to fill up the tank thinking the gauge was bad. Nope did it again And called for a tow truck. This was in mid october and 20 miles ago. Since then I've replaced fuel filters, lift pump, IPR, ICP, cam and crank sensors, sent the FICM in to have tested, replaced batteries. No the problem is worse. It Now has created a serious miss when it's cold till 90 then it Idles smooth but keeps dying on me like it did when it was towed.
I am award of the problem. And hope to be one of the majority that never has to deal with the issue. But, if the problem were to happen and the code thrown could it be as easy as to pull over. And if you had a code reader that could clear code.
Could you simply clear the code and be on your way? If so, how far would you get before the code reappeared and you had to repeat the read and clear the code again.
The truck is a 2002 F450 7.3 diesel with about 120k Miles.
While driving from 45-70Mph the truck engine stops for about 1 second and starts back up by itself. I thought the problem was the cps so I replaced it with a ford CPS. Today the problem still persists. The truck engine turns off and comes back on, the tach drops to 0 rpm and so does the speed.
The Check Engine Light comes on and so does the water in fuel light and so does the Check Gage light. After I turn off the truck and start it back up the truck does not show the lights.
I believe I found the issue, but can't look into it today. While I was moving some of the wires on the truck I found out that if I move the red/black bunch just a little bit the truck shuts off and comes back on when i let it go.