I got to put my egr cooler back in this weekend and was going to do some updates while I'm in there. My question is I have a 2005 excursion and my motor was manufactured in 08/04 do this had the bad stc fitting since its a later model 04? My hpop cover looks to be cast iron and not aluminum but is kinda hard to tell.
View 4 RepliesThe 2004 and 2005 turbo is interchangeable and can you replace the bearing in it.
View 8 RepliesWill a 05 injector harness work on a early 04?
View 1 RepliesIs it possible, Can you put 2005 to 2007 outfitter switches in a 99 to 2004 F250?
View 2 RepliesDon't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
2005 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Diesel 6.0L...
Hauling my jeep (close to 16,000 pounds all in F250+trailer+jeep) on a highway going a little over 70mph up a hill when I seemed to have lost some power and the check engine light came on. The turbo PSI was well over 20PSI (according to the gauge in the dash). I have a Scan Boss but I have not been monitoring turbo boost PSI.
I was only 10 miles from the final destination so I continued without stopping. It seemed that the turbo was limited for the rest of the trip. Later in the evening, no more check engine light but I haven't really driven the truck since then.
What do you think the problem was? What should the course of action be?
I had this truck for two months no problems yesterday went on a small trip about 50 miles in on ,the hwy. I start seeing some smoke and then no power turned off & on engine several times a little hard starting no power at all I put the pedal to the floor It barely moves ran into another super d. guy he said fuel filters , I turned around and crawled back home and changed fuel filters still no power. no codes "don't no where to start".
View 8 RepliesI got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didn't have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines, harness, pump, sending unit , tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to the garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they won't work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they won't touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So i go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it won't budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now.
I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
05 6.0 deleted and studded. 170k fresh filters and oil, no CEL or codes.
This has happened 3x in months, so it intermittent. Truck will start fine cold, except for this last episode ....
Truck starts right up, idles correctly, speed bumps up if its cold enough to trigger the high idle. About mid way through its warm up, at approx 130-140 idle falls off, barely runs. Almost knocking. Black smoke if you give it throttle. Has no power when its doing this. Truck will not move and almost dies in gear. Give it til 185ish degrees then pooof! All good.
However 2 days ago it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't catch. Stumbles and dies. Finally got it to start after setting the charger on it. I killed it. But this time when it started it was straight into its rough idle, no power...until about 180. I switched it off, restarted it and it was totally fine
Ficm is 47-47.5. Every now and then I see a 46.5 for a split sec
Hpop is 700-800cold cranking.
Not sure what else to look at.
Moto craft filters.
Amsoil 5w-40
Archoil in the fuel and oil
Twc3 at every fill up.
My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
I've got an 05 EX 4x4 150k miles. Stock tune, EGR delete only ....
Driving along and everything was good plenty of boost no power issues. Got off the freeway and truck just stopped making boost. So I messed with it for a couple days. Cousin with a Mac scanner flaked on me so I was stuck using Edge gauge cluster and trying to trouble shoot.
NO CODES, No smoke, EGT's rise and truck seems like it is lean. Boost has fluctuated between 4psi to 11 psi. What should MAF be at idle?
ICP has been consistent with whatever boost levels were being made.
FICM 47.5
New MAP tube/nipple cleaned
New MAF
Clean Air filter
New fuel filters
VGT actuates
Accel ped in spec
Turbo spins free
New hot side CAC boots
My 05 F350 will not start hot, occasionally stalls when hot as well. Starts immediately when cold and runs smooth as silk. Truck has 138k miles on it, I bought it studded and deleted, running 5w40 Rotella T6 with Archoil. Some history on the issue: Started out with a rough idle, found low FICM voltage along with a bad battery. Replaced both batteries and FICM, problem fixed. Soon after developed a misfire with a cyl 5 imbalance and injector code, replaced all 8 injectors which fixed that issue.
About 2 months ago I had a no start problem, turned out to be a bad ICP, replaced that and the harness and was all good for about 3 weeks. That's when it started becoming hard to start when the motor was warm, and then no start at all when hot and would stall occasionally at idle, wait an hour and it'll fire right up!
Ran the air leak test, found a leak on the right bank standpipe, replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes, no start still remained. Went on to replace the IPR and STC fitting which didn't work either. Now it throws a P2285 code, low ICP. Ran the air test again and I don't hear any leaks. HPOP seemed to have good compression turning by hand.
I have a 2005 f350 6.0 and it has a startup kit installed. When I start by using the key works perfect. But won't shut off by key! I have to use the stop button on key fob to kill the engine. I'm thinking relay might be stuck? And the relay on start up kit is working? Key removed it doesn't diesel down, it runs like key is still in.
View 12 RepliesI've been having this problem for a while and seem not be able to get anywhere.. so at first my truck had a stalling when hot getting low icp which lead to a new hpop, couple injectors, dummy plugs, icp.
Ever since I got the new hpop, now when it gets to operating temps the low pressure gauge drops, and once you get on pedal it goes back up then eventually stalls. Then have to wait till cold.. the low pressure gauge will not drop till oil is warm. Does it sound like a low pressure pump?
It's a 2005 6.0 with 213,000
I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
View 14 Replies05 f350 with sct tuner (studded and deleted) with blue spring mod. And for the record I took the truck back to stock tune
Having an issue where after a long hard run, or a run up a hill, the truck starts running rough and acting like its not getting fuel. Sometimes it runs so bad it dies. Wait a few seconds, start her up and it runs fine. (until I do a hard pull again) I can hear a intermittent slight miss at idle as well at times. Tank is 3/4 full of fuel. No codes, no CEL. Also there is no smoke when this happens. just took her for a run and it happened, brought it back and shut it off, started it back up and idles fine.
Oil pressure seems good, can't remember exact numbers but it was in the 2000's I think even while it was dying. FICM voltage holds steady at 48 volts.
I changed the fuel pump and filter out to a different one. (a used one that was working when removed from a different truck) no change. I did not change the upper filter but it doesn't look bad.
I imagine a fuel pressure test would be in order but I do not have the equipment right now to do it. Am I right thinking its a fuel issue?
Well, after getting the bed back on my '05 F350, I have been driving it on the road for a few days, but now I have a new problem.
Every once in awhile I get lag off idle for about a second, then the turbo spools and everything is fine. Other times, I step on the accelerator a bit from a stop, and the truck acts like its going to die for a moment, a puff of black smoke, and then the turbo spools and all is back to normal. It a combination of these two problems happens about 3-5 times out of 50 stops a day.
I have a scanguage and everything looks normal and I never get any codes when I check.