Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Rubbing Against The Battery Tray?
Nov 15, 2016
It appears mine is rubbing against the battery tray in my 04 6.0. It just flops around when I push on it. It's not bolted to anything.
View 8 RepliesIt appears mine is rubbing against the battery tray in my 04 6.0. It just flops around when I push on it. It's not bolted to anything.
View 8 RepliesWhose bright idea was it to have the damn tray attached to the puke tank making it impossible to remove by itself? What am I doing wrong?
I'm replacing my batteries and one of the hold down bolts slipped down off the tray underneath it somewhere. I removed all the bolts holding in the tray and find that it is attached to the puke tank?! (Coolant reservoir). How the heck to I get to that bolt?
I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
View 4 RepliesBattery light came on today. Checked voltage with truck running and only getting 11.8 / 11.9 volts at each battery. Alternator shot or ????? 2004 F350
View 14 RepliesWell about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
View 3 RepliesI have a weird rubbing/squeak noise from what it sounds like the rear. It occurs only after ive been driving for about an hour then it never goes away. Thought it was the pads so I put all new ones on. Maybe a bearing of some sort. I'm totally going nuts over this and cant pinpoint it!
View 14 RepliesI just identified an annoying squeak as the right side of the tailgate, right at the hinge, rubbing on the section of the rear passenger side quarter panel (one with FX4 decal) where it curls around to the rear. Any way to easily adjust the tailgate slightly to the drivers side? When the tailgate is up, the gap is noticeably smaller on the passenger side, and when down, the edge of the tailgate rubs the edge of the quarter panel, paint to paint.
View 1 Repliesam in possession of my fianc's F350. The battery light kept coming on, I changed both batteries... twice. I pulled the alt and took it to 2 different stores, asking them each to test it twice, and it checks out good. Drove it to a family function in Sept and it died (no lights, no dings, just completely dead), couldn't get it to jump so I had to have it towed. Tow truck driver said it was probably the starter solenoid, but I couldn't get any confirmation. Had a charger/jumper hooked up to it and got gage movement, dings and heard a clicking sound when I tried to start it.... still no jump. Is this a starter issue, or an electrical issue?
View 14 RepliesI had a friend install 18" rims with 35x12.5 tires on my new 2016 F-250 CC SWB that had 18" stock rims. They came off my 2002 Ford 7.3. There is a "creaking" noise coming out of the brake calipers when moving forward slowly with the brakes applied. This never happened with the tires/rims on my 7.3.
View 5 Replies6.0L Forum - I've noticed an unusual sound on my truck. Upon driving if I make a turn more than 15 degrees a "rubbing" sound can be heard through the turn, no "knocking" is not present. Once the steering wheel is straight the sound changes to a "whir". If I turn less than 15 degrees a noticeable sound can not be heard. As the RPM's vary, the sound will also vary. If I get out of the truck and listen for this sound in the engine bay I can not hear it. The sound is only distinct within the cab. It sounds like a weak motor trying to move something or a pump running low, my guess in the dark.
I've checked the oil level - good
I've checked the transmission fluid level - good
I've checked the power steering fluid level - good
I've checked the brake fluid - good
I have read that a master cylinder could wear and create a rubbing/unusual sound. What else should I check for? The truck has 238,000 miles.
Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
I have a 2011 6.7 with 16000 miles and it just turned 5 years old.Yesterday had hood up and notice driver side battery eye indicator was red, other battery was showing green, truck turned over and started fine. 15 degrees out this morning, truck started fine.Truck hasn't been ran for a couple weeks.What does the red indicate,battery needs charged or time for new batteries?
View 6 RepliesMy battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
View 1 RepliesI charged the batteries fully, new alternator put in and checked grounds. Light was off, but while driving to work it came back on again and stays on. Battery voltage is 14.2 on each at idle and 13.4 while engine and key off. Maybe the two prong connector needs to be replaced?
View 10 RepliesRunning down the road today and the battery light came on. Went on and off intermittently as I drive home and the tuner showed 11.5v. Got home, shut it off (didn't mean to) and restarted it. Tested voltage at the batteries and was over 14. Need to take it for a drive and see if it repeats.
View 14 RepliesI have 51k on my 2014 Platinum F-350 and the little red battery light come on. I take it in and they tell me that it is going to be a little over $1,300.00 to replace my alternator. I have had the truck since May 30, 2014 and the alternator has gone bad. I am regretting trading in my 1999 F-350 with over 365 k on it. Never had an electrical problem besides replacing the batteries every 4 years or so. Is this a common problem on these new trucks?
View 14 RepliesWell today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
View 14 RepliesIf I had to charge the batteries, Do you charge only the primary battery or do you charge both?
View 4 RepliesIn the past I've had truck batteries last close up to 9 years but at 59 months one of my batteries is not looking that great. The battery status indicator is red. I checked the level of the side that appears to be leaking and it's ok. I've had no issues with starting and it seems to crank over just as fast as when new.
View 14 RepliesMy battery light is coming on in the mornings for up to about 14 miles. I am showing 13.2 to 13.6 volts with torque pro. The light hardly ever comes on in the afternoon, but sometimes. I had the batteries and alternator tested yesterday at Advance Auto parts. Alternator showed good both times they tested it. Batteries showed at or just above their rated cranking amps. I have inspected both negative grounds from the batteries, the engine ground from the firewall to the passenger side back side of the engine, and the body ground on the passenger side to the frame. They look great, tight, and have not moved in a long time. I added a cable from the alternator to the fender well and it showed about 7 amps while idling before dropping to about 4.5 amps. I am thinking of still buying a new alternator anyway. That is the only think I can think of. Worse case, I just have a spare in the back of the truck.
View 12 RepliesOur 2011 SD 6.7. 190,000 km Came home after a week off and started the truck up via the command start, when I got in it the little red battery icon was lit up on the dash. Well this is my 3rd SD and in the past I always ended up needing an alternator when that light came on. So off to the dealer and was about to replace it, the service rep. stated the alt. was ok and there was something else wrong and it was turning the light on.
So you think here goes my next weeks pay looking for the Needle in a hay stack. Guys the Tech who is a great guy found a 18 guage red wire that runs from the pass. side battery under and infront of the motor not in any real wire harness and it goes to the alt. had some corrosion forming in under the insulation causing some resistance, and it was telling the system to turn the dash light on.
The tech replaced the bad wire and all is good now. Also you can test the out put of the Alt. and it will show around 15 volts with the truck running even with the red icon on, so you will know it's the bad wire and not an Alt.