Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Rough Running With Vibration In 6th Gear
Jul 8, 2015
2004 Excursion... 1st time into a 6.0 for me so I took my time. Truck has 192000miles.
PHP Ficm atlas 40, 58V Swamps
SCT Tuned via X4 (recently)(Extreme street at the time)
Synthetic 0w30 summer and 0w40 winter.
FORD filters ALWAYS, 5000mile intervals no pushing it
FORD fuel filters, BOTH regularly.
Studded, AFE Stage 2, Liberty EGR Delete.
42's, 4:88's with Detroit in rear
Highway driving and feel a stumble. Weird, then another, ok that wasn't a bump. Then steady rough idle and a heavy vibration when I lightly got back up to speed to get myself home.
Had new filters so started there. Just changed in the spring here and they were in pretty new condition but swapped them out anyway. Stripping the cap, 120 bucks and had to put a new one on.
Start truck and still rough idle, test drive and still a bad vibration.
SO, I read and search. Scanning with Ford or AE are my number one priorities and they were done along with Fuel pressure check.
Scan revieled Inj 6 out, fuel pressure at 60 PSI. We pulled plugs off injectors with results except 6, confirming it's not working.
Ordered an injector and the Aliant Power rebuild kits to freshen up the other 7.
Disassembled all 7, NO stiction problems at all and all 7 spool valves were clean as a whistle. Bodies of injectors were good on 6 of them and had a screen in cyl 3 what was completely gone (the 3 screens around the body of the injector). Tip was also plugged but one hole. (used brake cleaner in tip and air to confirm 6 holes were clear) Used the body of the core on that injector but not the spool part. Replaced all O-Rings incl the seal inside the top where rail snaps into. Sanded spools (800grit 2-3 turns) and installed same way they came out. Stem pipes and dummies new as well.
Reassemble, carefully and fire truck. WOW....running abit rough but smoother. Ive read it takes abit to get air out of system and to expect longer cranks ect. Shut it down. INspect for leaks. Button up the ficm, and few other things. Re-fire truck with abit longer of a crank. Fires and running smooth. HERE's where it starts acting up again. I can feel a small stumble....then another....then full time again. Exact same as before. Pull 6 off and it's that injector again.
Here's the big mistake I made. Reinstalling injectors, I put the new one in #4 spot and number 4 in 6's spot. Not smart, I know.
Pulling inj plugs off around entire motor while running and def No 6.
Put things away, call buddy and he says possible FICM. or harness.
So i pull inj harness and OHM every single pin and map it. 100%, I go grab his "good" ficm and test with that. HOLY COW, FOUND IT. Started great... Then as she warmed up ICP at650ish, EOT ECT getting to 100-110F (only a 4-5* delta always monitor) is starts to vibrate and run rough again.
Read some more....OHM testing is one thing, actually load testing harness confirms if it's actually no good. Harness is 450 bucks plus our lovely 13% tax so I want to diligently cross this bridge. Grab a harness off a running 6.0 and test next day.
Fires up and runs smooth. Then, as temps come up it starts again. Walked away last night and when I fired up this morning. Started great and as she warmed up vibration was back. Along with a intermittent squeak from the turbo housing area.
Codes.... SCT X4 tuner is reading nothing DTC's and hasn't since day one so I "assumed" no codes until buddy scanned with AE and since it's last WiFi update wouldn't connect to computer and gives me error code 10007 when I try to tune. **Ended up fixing last night, went into another "Tune revision update" and now connects to my computer AND returned my truck to STOCK and resested truck. Still running rough.
So I plug my PHP FICM tuner and get codes:
P1102 "Unkknown" (reading here I had my AFE off and not plugged in)
P0113 Intake air HI input
P0284 Cyl 8 cont/bal Fault
P0603 Internal control Module KAM error
P0611 FICM Perf (58v swamps, I've read always throws this code and I've had that code since day 1)
P0676 Glow #6 fail
Lastly I'll add, no smoke out tail pipe at all during all testing minus the black puff when tune loaded.
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So I'm coming home from the gym and the truck is running fine all the way until i get to my apartment and I notice its vibrating more than usual and as I am turning into my parking spot the truck starts running really rough, like when idling in drive it doesn't just go forward it lurches forward and then the rpm drops and then lurches forward and then the rpm drops.. Know what I am saying? I was low on fuel (light had just came on) so I was worried maybe i was running out of fuel (kind of seemed like it) and turned the truck off immediately because I didn't want to run it out of fuel.
Went to the gas station got a 5 gallon can and filled it up with diesel turn it on and its still running rough, like when you put your hand over the exhaust its not a constant flow but more like a puff puff puff and you can hear it too, I tried again this morning thinking maybe it would magically go away but nope still the same thing, if i put it in drive and try and let it idle it struggles even more. Should I be worried about letting it run or driving it while its running bad? I was thinking maybe it would go away if i let it idle for a while? but I don't want to ruin anything so i just turned it off.
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When I first start my excursion in the morning, it starts fine, idles fine. If I don't let it sit for about 5mins plus i have this issue. I will start off and it has no power at all. I can barely get up to 20mph. It doesn't seem to want to change gears, I don't hear the turbo spool up. Then all of a sudden it will go to next gear, turbo spools up and it has power again. It is like I said a 6.0 power stroke, its a 2004 excursion with 214k miles.
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Ok, so I have a 2004 F250, with 6.0L. when driving at a steady speed (doesn't matter what speed), the engine will run rough when coming to an idle, and stay running rough until I shut it off and let it sit for a bit.
After I cycle the key a few times it will fire up and run fine, so I came to the conclusion that air is getting in the fuel system. I then took the filter cap off that is located in the engine bay and cycled the key, which produced a lot of bubbles, which I am assuming shouldn't happen.
I guess my question is, should I have air bubbles in the filter bowl, when cycling the ignition?
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I have a buddy at work who has an 04 f350 6.0 that is running very rough. we put a scanner on it and disabled the injectors and 1,7,8 have no change. He checked the FICM voltage and is getting 48 volts on crank and run. He checked the wiring for anything loose or rubbed but nothing seems wrong.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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Well, I've read a lot of threads on this problem! Try to do my own repairs, so I'm learning and not spending a lot of cash at repair shops.I have an 04 6.0 Super Duty Crew. Starting running rough on way home. Pulled over ,then it died.wouldn't start. Had towed home. Replaced ficm circuit board. No start. Replaced Harness,
icp...... ipr Sensors. Still no start. I noticed there is another circuit board inside ficm. Should I have bought the whole ficm unit?
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I am having a problem with a 6.7. The truck has 9900 miles on it. It has a dpf delete, egr delete, Spartan tuner and a snow stage 3 kit. The truck lopes at idle but once throttle is applied it levels out but still runs a little rough. Its keeps saying its in reduce engine power no matter how many times I clear the code. If I clear the code it will come back in 2 seconds with out cranking the truck or anything. Rail pressure is telling me 31090 psi and not changing running or not. I have changed rail pressure sensor, and pressure control valve with no result. The green and violet 5 volt reference that feeds those sensors is only putting out 1.2 volts. Put a new pcm in it still the same and now has quit running totally. The codes are P0193, P0335,and P06A6.
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I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
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Did my oil change last night and filter swapped both fuel filters on my 04 f350 started it up last night drove it a little bit and she was fine. Went to start her up this morning and she was pissy so I drove her a bit once warm and she feels like there is a dead cylinder maybe??
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I was towing a trailer about 600 miles truck was running great, pulled in for fuel and truck was running rough, refueled and was on my way then when going down a hill (Idle) it just quit, had to tow remaining 200 miles.
After reading the forums I replaced the ICR (ICR screen was damaged) Truck now starts but its very loud and missing like crazy. and surges if i give it a little gas. codes 0268, 0281, 2284, 2288 I also replaced the ICP.
should I replace the injectors? what causes this?
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My Excursion got 4 new injectors a couple weeks ago and when I got it back, it was running rough. My mechanic told me it was going to take about 100 miles for them to break in.
300 miles later and it is still running rough. So I opened the hood, took a look around and saw this wiring harness unplugged. Where it goes? Youtube video shows where the harness is [URL] ......
Also, my truck has been shaking violently at 50 miles per hour, unless I hit tow haul, then it is moved up to 60... I am assuming its connected some how to that wiring harness being disconnected.
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In your experience, what issues have you seen that caused intermittent rough running at idle, but did not throw a code. I have monitored (with numerous scanners/gauges) this 6.0, but cannot get a code or see any of the sensors out of spec.
At Hot idle:
IPR: 24.2
ICP: 640
ICV: 0.90
MAP: 14.7
MAF Volts: 1.5
EOT/ECT Deltas within 10 and Avg ECT=192, EOT=199
EGR Valve cleaned and EGR demanded = EGR Measured
Vehicle will run rough after long runs or towing. Cylinder Balance test showed all injectors on. What could be the cause?
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Wife just pulled in said your trucks running rough. Right out the gate went out Checked ICPV its at 0 KOEO... Noticed a CEL P2285...
ICPV seams to be Jumping all around at Idle...
it stutters and smooth's out some I believe its going into default mode...
its acting different then last time the ICP went south thinking a wire is shorted or that's my guess ...
is it just me or do Vehicles seem to break down more when its Cold...
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Truck is running bad when first cranked in the morning, is bucking and running rough until warmed up, think the oil needs to be changed and which additive is better the archoil or Rev x?
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My truck was running rough when cold, I went to check the ficm voltage while wife was cranking and coolant shot right into the ficm and cooked the sumbitch. Stop laughing that stuff happens to me all the time. Anyhow, got a new ficm and truck wont start. Starter kicks out after a few revs. I ran my own solenoid wire to the starter and it cranks just fine. ficm at 48.5 koeo and cranking, icp 1100+, ipr from 14.8 to around 40%, ...
It takes a few seconds for the cam/crank to sync but it does. I changed the fuel filters and primed it, Got new batteries, and threw a crank sensor for s+g. With the key on and me cranking it using the solenoid wire, it almost starts. But from the key it will kick out after a few seconds. All fuses and relays are good. I hear the pcm also controls the starter, could that have cooked when the ficm went or would it blow a fuse? Diagnosing using a scangauge2 ....
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Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
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2006 F350 6.0 ... I am piling up parts for a bulletproof party later this summer. It has gotten grumpy ahead of schedule. I will hook up the AE tomorrow for consultation.
In the meantime. Running rough at 50. Seems to accelerate from a stop semi ok. Sitting at idle, holding rpm at 1750 I hear kind of a thump under the hood and the rpm drops 300, then slowly finds it way back to 1750 and it repeats itself.
This thump has not been noticed in the past. Could this be the VGT not working as expected?
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I towed my 32 ft/ 600lb travel trailer 115 miles into arkansas today. When I arrived at the campground, the engine was running rough and shaking the vehicle. I saw highs of 175 (trans temp) 1150 (EGT), 214 (ECT), and 224 (EOT).
I recently installed the canned trans tune from my new SCT X4.
I pulled codes (none), checked cylinder misfire count on scangauge 2 (none). In fact, all gauges on the SG2 were within spec. I popped the hood and let it idle for 15 mins. Temps all dropped down to what I usually see after normal driving (not towing).
The engine did start to calm down as it cooled, but still sounded a rough
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So I have been chain a no hot start issue. Found a bad top o ring seal for injector #2 replaced the o ring put it all back together did an air test seemed good not 100% sure I don't have another leak. Still problem starting. But I am now running rough and I have a pending p0264. What's up?
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 with sct livewire, arp studs&gaskets, oil cooler, blue spring mod, sinister egr cooler and it had been giving me some real troubles lately. Started off as a code for injector #8 so I replaced that and while I was in there I rebuilt the oil rail with new nipple cups and orings, replaced standpipe and dummy plug in that bay(also updated the arc fitting less than a year ago), new exhaust back pressure sensor tube because it was right plugged with carbon, and a new egr valve because that was right packed with carbon as well, all backed together and torqued to spec from the Haynes manual and the truck still sounds like its missing at an idle with some light smoke(just smells like unburnt fuel). From there I went to test the ficm which is also only a couple years old and it seems to stay at a constant 48v so at this point...
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