Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Power Loss?
Feb 19, 2016
I've noticed a power loss on my 04 6.0 for about a week now. I've drove it everday since first noticing, it starts great even with freezing temps here MI. Using a sct x4 powerflash for monitoring i check for codes, none thrown. All gauged data shows nothing abnormal besides turbo boost, reading at .1 to .5 psi in park. Being new to the 6.0 i started with checking all connections to and from turbo, everythings snug. Than moved to the EBPV and tube, cleaned both, now the boost bounces between .3 and -.3 in park. While driving i'm starting to get intermittent boost loss completely, than boosts kicks in and drives normal. Which leads me to my question, am i expierencing sticky vanes? Or could the vgt solenoid be doing this.
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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Today I was riding along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power. I look in the rear view mirror and get into the pedal and a lot of black smoke. When I get to where I'm going and stop I noticed the idol was a little loopy. I never saw a check engine light. I have the Edge insight. I had two codes. P1000 OBD System readiness test not complete. P2290 ICP TO LOW.
When I would reset the codes the P1000 came back instantly every time. I parked the truck for about an hour. When I started it back up everything was normal. The power was back and no smoke. This happened two more times throughout the day. I have heard people describe a sticking EGR Valve causing these symptoms. Is that where I should start looking or is the ICP the culprit or something else?
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Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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I have a 2004 Super Duty with a 6.0 diesel. Recently the windshield washer seems to have lost some of it's spray power. It still sprays, just not very hard. I know it's not frozen, as it started this before it got cold.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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First there was a loud pop as if a hose came off and a power loss - don't seem to see any hose disconnected. Happened to me once and seemed to return to normal and then happened to my son. Have not driven since the last time. Both times pulling a boat.
Second issue has been going on since I got the truck - bought used apprx. a year ago - believe it to be stock. The time from pushing accelerator until actual kick in is very elongated - sometimes worse than others but very long on the worst side. Usually noticed when needing to pass on the highway. Once kicked in truck runs well.
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So, I was on a road trip to Arkansa from Missouri when my truck started loosing power and eventually just died. After I tore through some stuff, I realized the ficm was just floating around off the brackets and even better yet, missing the top cap where you voltage test. And to my great luck, there was a small coolant leak that dripped it's way right into it.. So now I'm looking at replacements and it looks like I'm going to go with the Bulletproof Diesel ficm. But my question is, can I just swap them out and go.? My truck is tuned with an SCT tuner and was tuned up when it died. Should I tune it back to stock before I put a new one in or put the new one in and then put it stock and retune it after that.? Or is it more complicated than that and I should just let my mechanic deal with it.?
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2005 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Diesel 6.0L...
Hauling my jeep (close to 16,000 pounds all in F250+trailer+jeep) on a highway going a little over 70mph up a hill when I seemed to have lost some power and the check engine light came on. The turbo PSI was well over 20PSI (according to the gauge in the dash). I have a Scan Boss but I have not been monitoring turbo boost PSI.
I was only 10 miles from the final destination so I continued without stopping. It seemed that the turbo was limited for the rest of the trip. Later in the evening, no more check engine light but I haven't really driven the truck since then.
What do you think the problem was? What should the course of action be?
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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So loss power on take off and then stopped at store quick shut it down. Came out of store ten minutes later no start just turns over and over. I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
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My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
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