Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Noise - Fan Clutch Out?
May 5, 2016
I'm hearing a plane type sound on my 2004 f-250 6.0 and i also noticed the temp gauge needle went up but still in normal range and then went back to the middle range when slowing down or parked. I had a combustion test done and a leak test was done and all passed. The reservoir tank had a leak and changed that before all the test were done. The mechanic did various run test and it didn't over heat but it did when i got it back. My guess is that the fan clutch is out but not sure. An AutoZone guy came out and looked at the fan clutch and asked me to turn it on and hit the gas and then shut it off. He noticed that the fan clutch kept turning fast and he said it's not supposed to do that.
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My Fan Clutch seems to come on quite often when its not needed. Mostly when towing. I don't have any live monitoring system on my 05 excursion. no codes. I did recently replaced svt sensor and radiator was found with a leak replaced that. still having that problem?
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Fan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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My Edge is reading "PO528: Fan Speed Sensor Circ No Signal". When I'm pulling a large 5th wheel up a 4% hill by the time I hit the top (if I don't slow down)warning beeps are gong off and my ECT is at 240. I can hear the fan come in at 215 and it stays in all the way up in temperature.
All the posts say c/o the fan clutch. While that may fix the fault signal, would it do anything for the temp situation. If the fan is locked in it seems like a lot of money just to clear the fault. Or......is the fan still slipping but sounding like it's working? This my be not related but I did notice that as the temp rises the AC starts not working. By the time I reach the top of the hill it is blowing hot. As we go down the other side and ECT comes down, it starts cooling.
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At the first of summer I had typical A/C Clutch cycling not much cold air. Checked the Low Press side said it was low PSI took a Gamble that the pump was good and just filled it worked great. Lost All A/C the other day checked it out thought it may have small leak somewhere but clutch didn't cycle hardly at all Had a gut feeling it wasn't simple leak.
Well I just found a Hole in the condenser at the bottom Tube that runs across. So looking for new condenser. I also don't know what to do with recharging it and the ac oil in the system how much? maybe its safe to say most the oil was pumped out. Would standard procedure be to repair it then FLush cooling system to get to a baseline and then refill prescribed amount of oil and Freon
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Ok here goes. I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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I have a 2003 6.0 and I got a scan gauge recently to monitor the fan speed rpm's.
When the engine is running at 2500 rpms the fan speed is only at around 350-400 rpm's.
I did have a code for IAT 2 circuit high I think I read that the egr is disabled when the iat 2 sensor is getting more than 4.8 volts.
Can a bad iat 2 sensor, egr valve or icp sensor cause the fan not to function properly?
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06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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I have recently bought a 04 f250 6.0, and it has the intake thumping noise that varies speed with idle... I was told it could be a broken rocker, a bent push rod, or a broken roller... I am not that much experienced with diesels. I've spoken to the dealership, and they don't wanna fix it, they said it wouldnt hurt it to drive it like that, but the noise bothers the hell out of me, and everyone notices it. so i wanna get it fixed. I am hoping its just a rocker. if it is just a rocker how deep am i in? truck has 240xxx miles on it, and runs perfect other than that noise.
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I have a 04 F250 6.0L ,The center bolt that holds the a/c clutch to the compressor. I'm assuming that bolt needs to be tight, correct? Mine was loose when I looked at it last night. My a/c squeals for a while trying to engage. Also, is that bolt right or left hand threads? Can that clutch be replaced without removing the compressor?
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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2011 F350 diesel with 10,000 miles. I have been experiencing problems with the truck loosing power, making rough running noise (pinging like an older diesel), and vibrating. As though the motor is bogging down. It usually occurs on small inclines or hills with the truck in higher gears and low rpms. It will also occur running on flat ground 65-70 mph. Had it occur once while turning the truck around in 1st gear and low rpms. Depressing the accelerator will bring the truck out of it.
This problem occurs randomly sometimes a couple of times a week to not at all. Took to dealer and they found no codes and of couse it didn't do it on the hour long test drive I took the mechanic on. However they did say they had two other owners come in with the same complaints, but could not get trucks to repeat the issue. Problem usually occurs in the hotter part of the day, maybe just coincidence. I had seen similar posts with this problem but no conclusions.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have a 2004 F250. Owned it for a little less than 4 miles (186k on the odometer) .. The other day making a routine run and the radio goes out. Stopped to check it out and found I had no power windows either.
Made it home, checked the fuse on the radio and its good and the the power window fuse is also good. Put a meter on the terminals and have no voltage going to them. What I need to look at???
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and am having a serious issue. The truck has about 240,000 miles and has been great until now. About a week ago the truck was running great and had plenty of power. I decided to wash it with my pressure washer (did not spray under the hood, however I did spray in the front wheel wells and underneath the truck). About 5 minutes after washing the truck, I took it out for a drive and noticed when I really got on the accelerator the truck would not want to try harder and motor got very quiet. Really all you could hear was the turbo whistling. Over this past week the problem has gradually gotten worse... a few days ago I had to feather the pedal in order to go up hills. If I gave it more than about 1/4 inch of accelerator, the motor once again would get quiet and the truck would start to slow down and would not want to work.
However, if I let up and only gave it a small amount of accelerator, the motor would sound normal again and it would pull up the hill. Today, I can do nothing more than idle back and forth in the driveway because the motor gets quiet and the turbo winds up if you give it even the slightest amount of accelerator. I have no idea if it's a coincidence that this happened after washing the truck, or if maybe there was a sensor that was rotted and about to die and I finished the job with the pressure washer. I already replaced the egr valve and have been running tons of Howes diesel conditioner and anti gel through it. The injectors were replaced about 50,000 miles ago so I'd hate to think it was them. The truck doesn't smoke at all either.
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I bought a 2004 power stroke with 100k miles, ran well for 15k miles then started having low power for first few minutes to no power, regular oil changes and fuel filters at 5k, checked FICM 48v KOEO , 48v cranking, new batteries just in case. Oil pressure when cranking at 50% of gauge , even crank cycle will jump when trying to fire, no loss of coolant, block heater working, it did start a few a few times and blew white smoke until warm then full power but the last 2 times I did get it to start it ran for less than 1 minute and died could not restart.
Fresh fuel additive in both fuel and oil for stickshion, have read hundreds of posts but not seeing similar problems no codes. With key cycle 120 amp draw on passengers battery for approx 25 seconds 48 amp on right battery glow plugs good due to the amp draw? So I think my FICM is good, good oil pressure cranking, the oil pump should be good, ICP good? Because of gauge coming up? Everything I read says black smoke for EGR soot issues. Not sure where to look.
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