Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Missing When Cold - Swapping Injectors?
Feb 28, 2017
I have 1 bad injector well it's missing when it's cold and two others that are "weak" I'm wondering what kind of job it would be to do by myself?
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I have a 2003 Excursion with the 6.0 power stroke. I recently had a few codes, cylinder 2, 3, and 8 contribution/balance fault. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said I needed new injectors. I replaced them all, properly torqued everything down, and got it running. She ran for 20 minutes before it started missing again. I shut it down, and since then it hasn't started. That was two Sundays ago. Since then, I've replaced the ficm, all fuses related to the ficm and fuel pump, and even went in and checked all the connectors. Everything is in place, but it still won't run.
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I found some 04 injectors for a good price, will the work on my 06?
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just overhauled my 6.0. run great for about 3 days now runs really rough when cold. new heads injectors rings pistons ficm fuel pump icp sensor ipr valve fuel pressure is good. Engine rolls smoothly when cold also.
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2004 F250 6.0 and it's a no start. I have a snap on scanner and I did koeo test and it came up as inj circuit low for all 8 inj. I performed "the buzz test " and all inj click. The voltage on the scanner for the ficm is 52 and everything I read say that's more that enough. Where I should look?
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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I have been having trouble w my 04 I checked all fuses all relays all dash lights work, no buzzing on injectors when key turned on. I checked push pull plug for starter it turns over with direct to battery but still does not start. New computer on fender.
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I think my starter took a s hit like I said truck randomly doesn't crank all lights on dash come on can hear injectors buzzing turn key nothing. Took wire off passenger's side of truck yellow wire touched to pos post solenoid click no crank. So I had the old lady sit in the drivers seat well I hit the starter with my BMFH started right up could something else cause this or should I just bite the bullet and replace the starter?
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My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
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Bought a 2004 f350 lariat last fall. Overhead console was missing. Finally got around to replacing the display. Temp, compass works fine, but mileage and distance to empty are way off. Display typically shows 13.5mpg but when manually calculating am usually closer to 17. Distance to empty is way off as well. I did some research but didn't find much on how to recalibrate it. No difference with or without tunes.
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Truck (04 excursion, 2WD, early build 6.0, 160k) started missing and rough idle on way home from work after sitting all day in rain - parked. started fine in morning and drove to work with no trouble - it was raining over night too.
To get you up to speed. for a few weeks before had intermittent trouble starting. would fire up as normal, fast and loud, but then stall immediately (usually after sitting overnight). would start back up but with a little long on the key and some gas pedal action. only happen one out of ten or twenty starts and seemed to follow getting fuel in unknown locations while on a trip out of town. decided to change out fuel filters and drain separator. seemed to fix it for a week or so then it happened again two days before above event, while weather was dry. Not sure if related but only recent problem to speak of.
Back to current:
- no check engine light or codes (I have a scanner)
- stalled out close enough to home the night in question I rolled it into driveway and tried to start it while rolling in neutral - no start
- once parked in driveway also no start
- next evening wanted to get it into garage (to dry off) and it started but rough idle and missing. this was after 24 more hours sitting in rain.
- been in garage 24 more hours and this evening got it to run but same result (rough idle and hard start). tried to check connections (mainly FICM) and move wire loom around - still same.......
Where to check next, need some diagnostic...
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My dad has a 04 f350 6.0 and on his way back from a trip he filled up and drove 60 miles and it started smoking white smoke, after he let it sit a while he added fuel injector cleaner thinking it might have been somewhat bad fuel. Drove it 20 more miles and it it changed to black smoke and started sputtering like it was missing. Blowing a lot of smoke. Took it to ford dealer and they checked for codes and it said the #8 injector was bad and needed replaced. My question is would the injector going bad cause all the smoke and missing?
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I Probably don't have the right forum but I have searched without luck throughout the site looking to see if any one has swapped out their regular towing mirrors for a set of powerscope ones with power fold and telescopic functions. I also need to know if the wiring is going to already be in there for them , I know that the switch will also have to be replaced ,but is there any thing else? truck is 2013 f250 and this forum seems to have the most responses for that year and model.
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I have replaced all the injector seals as well as the ball cup seals but when I crank the truck over after a few cranks I see oil bubbling up from the top of all the injectors. When looking at the injectors from the "top" side all looks well but when I use an inspection cam from down below I can see this happening. Any thoughts?
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My Excursion got 4 new injectors a couple weeks ago and when I got it back, it was running rough. My mechanic told me it was going to take about 100 miles for them to break in.
300 miles later and it is still running rough. So I opened the hood, took a look around and saw this wiring harness unplugged. Where it goes? Youtube video shows where the harness is [URL] ......
Also, my truck has been shaking violently at 50 miles per hour, unless I hit tow haul, then it is moved up to 60... I am assuming its connected some how to that wiring harness being disconnected.
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2003 F250 6.0. We had our truck completely checked over by a diesel shop, and we spent $ in repairs on our 6.0 in June having a new high pressure oil injection pump put in, 1 new injector, new oil cooler, new EGR cooler, FCIM and a few other odds and ends. We had this done before leaving Michigan to spend 6 months on the road for my husband's job while pulling our 5th wheel. We were on the road for 6 hours, got to the middle of Pennsylvania, and every injector blows out of the engine all at once. One head is cracked, all injectors are burned, brand new oil pressure pump is destroyed, oil is pouring out of the turbo. The mechanic we were towed to says we got bad fuel that caused catastrophic failure and he proceeds to rebuild our engine. 2 injectors were so badly destroyed that they could not be rebuilt. We had the fuel tested by a lab and the lab says the fuel is fine. What would cause such a catastrophic failure like this?
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I have a bit of a quandary with my 6.0 and I'm wondering how it compares to others. If you have a hot or race tune (example: super panty dropper) on your 6.0 with stock injectors, what is the peak high pressure oil that you see at full throttle?
Need to know high pressure oil PSI @ full throttle, year (or better yet which style hpop you have if you know), if your ecu tune is a "race" tune, and if you have any FICM tuning.
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Replaced o-rings, injector cups, glow plugs and UVCH with all motorcraft parts 2 years ago and the ICP, IPR and resealed the HPOP last year. I use rotella 15W-40 oil. It has been hard to start when it is cold and runs rough with little power until warm for a few seasons now when it is cold outside. There are no fault codes or issues otherwise with the mostly stock truck. A buzz test when the engine is cold only #6 sounds strong and #8 isn't quite as bad as the others but the others are hardly audible.
Cause:
1) Can 6 to 7 injectors really go bad in 165k miles? If it is injectors I believe the Alliant look to be the way to go with type ADs?
2) Since it is like flipping a switch and the number of injectors effected is it possibly the 0.1% of the time it is the IDM when there is a miss and no SES. From my searching and swampdiesel if there is a miss and no SES it is 99.9% it is not the IDM or harness since it actively checks continuity.
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I have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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