after a loud screeching sound that sounded like a spun shaft rubbing on metal iwent under and found the starter wabbling around. Its going to be a first for me. Anything out of the ordinary i should know before moving on with the replacement..
04 f250 diesel 6.0
So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
My power steering pump was making a loud whining sound. No problem, changed the pump. Now after the truck is started I will have no power steering or brake assist, give the truck a little gas and you can hear the power steering pump "start". I have tried every way to get the air out, or is that not the problem. I even lifted the front of the truck off the ground with a forklift and with the truck off turned the wheel about six times stop to stop. Fluid level looks good and has since adding after the change.
View 4 RepliesJust noticed a sound of air sucking sound under the hood on heavy acceleration only, the harder I push the louder it gets. Either sucking or hissing sound. I feel no difference in driving. No loss of power or anything else. Just the sound of air coming out like a leaking air line. I will check later this afternoon if its affecting my turbo boost. I have 235000 klms on the clock
View 5 Repliesam in possession of my fianc's F350. The battery light kept coming on, I changed both batteries... twice. I pulled the alt and took it to 2 different stores, asking them each to test it twice, and it checks out good. Drove it to a family function in Sept and it died (no lights, no dings, just completely dead), couldn't get it to jump so I had to have it towed. Tow truck driver said it was probably the starter solenoid, but I couldn't get any confirmation. Had a charger/jumper hooked up to it and got gage movement, dings and heard a clicking sound when I tried to start it.... still no jump. Is this a starter issue, or an electrical issue?
View 14 RepliesSo I have a 06 f350 6.0 and this started to happen yesterday. I was driving and all my temp gauges were ok says the tuner, but I noticed when I accelerated and went above 8psi the noise got significantly louder and wouldn't go above 17psi so the cause of this sound is making lose pressure somewhere.
- I check the hot side of the inner cooler pipe and boots for cracks or tears(nothing)
- I checked the cold side and the plastic seems to be in good shape except where the flex part meets the inner cooler had some little cracks in it
- I check the Intake for cracks, didn't see any.
Noise is still there and the loss of power.....so I'm at a loss!
Cold side pipe where I taped it
Hot side boot to inner cooler no tears
No cracks in hot side pipe
Hot side on turbo
Cold side of the inner cooler
The EMS service in the county next to ours lost one of it's new trucks for a few days on Tuesday. While going on a call, the engine made a tapping sound for only a few seconds, then a loud pop and shut off. Ford dealer went and picked it up and took it in for evaluation. VERDICT: Broken rod and cracked block. I have to say, this is the first I've heard of a 6.7L having a problem like this in our area.
Ford was really interested in this engine, as a new one is already on the way and the old one is to be shipped back for complete breakdown. So far, the Director and County Manager have been impressed with Ford's response to this problem. Dealer has told them the truck should be ready by the middle to end of next week. If I hear anything else, I will let you know. Any engine can break at any time, I'm just glad they are moving quickly to rectify the situation.
So I'll give a little history. Had blown head gaskets so I tackled that got it back together and now I can't get it to start. I have a monitor but it won't tell me if I have ficm sync. I have 1500 psi cop reading. I have spinning it over far 15 to 20 minutes. I'm using a bluetooth scanner and a app on my phone. I have no codes thrown or anything else. Do I keep cranking on it or am i missing something.
View 14 RepliesI was pulling a empty trailer and my boost started to act up. it would take a few seconds then I would get boost. my EGRs went up to 1050 and started to spit out black smoke. I got home everything went well after. Next day I went to another town no trailer and it started to sputter going down the highway. When I gassed it and let go it had a loud like gargling sound. But it would sputter and throw out black smoke every time it did it. I finally got to my destination and turned the truck off for about 30 minutes. Left to go back home and the motor ran as if nothing every happened to it. What is it. I have a 2004 F250 stock with new air filter and juice with attitude.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 E350 6.0 with a bad vacuum pump. I tried looking on Youtube for a video on replacing the pump but no luck. Looking for a video or instructions on replacing the pump? It looks fairly easy but you need to be a snake to gain access to the pump bolts.
View 9 RepliesAttempting to take this on myself. My passenger side manifold was replaced a year ago.....BTW This damn truck - all stock - no modifications of any kind - just turned 100k miles. One owner - me.
So I have removed everything I think I need to to gain reasonable access including the fenderwell and all the intake tubes and battery and coolant reservoir. I want to use some heat and try not to break the bolts but there is a thin wiring harness just above the exhaust manifold. I can't find it in any diagrams on the ford parts site. It looks like the glow plug and injector harnesses are up above near the intake manifold but this one is down below all that. It connects to small rubber thing - 1 for each cylinder. There is nothing else electrical near it - everything else is up top.
Now my rant - look away if you are a die hard ford truck fan or 6.0L powerstroke fan.
So far I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds because they burned and rusted right through. New transmission cooler lines -yes - rusted through and cooler (because we couldn't get the lines off without destroying the cooler). Cat got clogged (that was fun to find and fix). All 4 front ball joints replaced. Transmission dip stick tube rusted through. Several brake lines had to be replaced due to rust. The air conditioner quit with about 80k miles. I haven't fixed that yet. My oil pan is rusting through and needs replacement. Friggin oil pan! I have never in my long life experienced that. I know of other diesel pickups that are older with far more miles that live in the northeast, used for plowing and never garaged that don't have their oil pans rusting through. Just had to change both power steering lines that go to the gearbox due to leak caused by rusting through. EGR needs to be cleaned or replaced almost as often as the oil need changing. This POS needs to be out of my life!
Too bad because if it was dependable and wasn't made out of the cheapest crappy metal Ford could find it would be a great truck. Rides and hauls great. Plows great. Good looking truck, too. Standard cab 8 foot bed. Dark green. Just can't keep doing this.
I've been trying to figure out a slow start condition on my 06 F350. What should the starter rpms be when cranking? My scanguage reads 180. Does this sound low? Batteries are new.
View 9 RepliesFrom what I've read they are a direct replacement to our 6.0 trucks. This one looks alittle dirty but it only has 100k on it. Comes with a 90 day warranty.
What do you think, go for it? Should I upgrade my wiring battery cable wiring and grounds while i'm in there?
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0 liter crew cab. It's all stock minus the FICM and bullet proof I did a few years ago when I purchased the truck. truck runs amazing with 136K miles on her, but i rarely drive the truck and she's been sitting. SO, I went out to start her up because it's been in the low teens and I wanted to keep the battery up to par. When I had turned the ignition key on to start the truck (after I cycled the glow plugs), I could hear the starter spin but instead of turning the truck over, it made a grinding noise followed by a spin type sound which I assume is the drive gear of the starter not engaging. I can get her to start but it takes multiple attempts.
Once she's warmed up, it seems to stop grinding when i try and start it which makes me think it's more of a resistance issue, possibly a relay. BTW, where is the starter relay on our trucks? I am wondering if the cold has something to do with the proper power and amps to the starter via the relay causing the starter not getting enough power to the starter. Anyway, I'm hoping there is a way to diagnose this through my torque program by looking at amps but not sure which parameters to look at on torque android.....I'm hoping it's a relay problem instead of a starter problem. I really dont want to replace a starter with a bum shoulder.......in the cold to top it off
With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
My 6.0 keeps trying starts on a regular bases. I was told it was a week injector by mechanic so we replaced that one and bought a new starter. Within 2 days it had fried that one also. We did check batteries and they tested good even put them in another dismal and drive them for a week. Mechanic told us we need to put another injector in it. But I don't see how a injector can fry the starter.
View 12 Replies2003, 6.0,128K, original starter, I was towing a heavy trailer out of state, shut engine off at a gas station 2 miles from my destination. Truck started back up as normal. Continued on my way towing uphill. I backed in the driveway and shut it off for a half hour while unloading the trailer. Went back out, all lights came on with ignition, but no crank. I don't hear a click like a solenoid. I checked fuses, I got hung up on checking what looked like a solenoid on the passenger fender. Its a big relay, but now I;m thinking its for something else. I had to leave the truck out of state and was able to get a ride back. I won't be back there for two weeks. Should I bring a new starter? A 6.4 starter?
View 2 Replies2004 6.0 160K....
I have a very hard to hear tinging sound that emanates from near the right bank--possibly more audible toward the front of the motor. It is very hard to hear but it is there. it is higher pitch than the "diesel" sound, and much lower in volume. I had thought it was my lower alternator (dual alternator setup), but I ran it without the lower belt and the sound is still there.
I think the sound tings at a faster rate with RPM increase, but in truth, I am not certain, but it is drowned out by engine noise. Using the base engine test to spin the engine over I do not hear it, BUT it might also be that the engine doesn't spin over fast enough. During the test the engine spins fast and smooth. I did the test with a warm motor.
I have AE software and have a good balance (after just changing injector #8). I know that cylinder 1 (passenger side) is after #8 in firing sequence so I was kind of hoping that the noise was coming from a max'd out injector trying to compensate for the bad #8. However, after installing the new #8 injector the engine idles smoothly with a straight-line contribution balance---and the right bank noise is still there.
Could it just be an injector making noise that will eventually fail?
Could it be a cracked rocker or a bend pushrod?
Could it be something else...?
Is there anyway to figure this out without pulling the right side valve cover? I guess I've decided this is the next step, but I'm looking for any thoughts before I commit to that. I've done things like this in the past and my luck says I'd pull the cover and not find a smoking gun.
I have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
My new to me 2006 F-350 6.0L began having starting issue this week. I'll try to describe it as best I can. Not every time I start it, but about every 3rd or 4th time this happens.
- She will start to crank as if the batteries are weak.
- Very low starter rpm's. If I stop cranking, and immediately try again it will do the same.
- if I wait 30 seconds to a minute, she will go back to a high rpm crank and start up after 2-3 seconds.
I have Auto Ingenuity and a SCT tuner so I can data log PID's.
In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
View 14 Replies