Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Hydrolock After Replacing Water Pump
Jan 24, 2016
I bought an '04 Powerstroke from a dealer in Dallas. Problems started to crop up immediately, so I replaced the thermostat. This seemed to handle my cooling issues for a couple days, until when preparing to drive to Austin, I noticed coolant pouring from what appeared to be the location of the water pump. I turned around and drove the two blocks back home, and replaced the water pump. However, when i went to restart the truck, I got only a partial turn of the crank. I let off immediately and waited a couple seconds, then tried again; same result.
I haven't had the glow plugs out yet to see what type of fluid is causing the lock. I was so pissed last night that I just went and took a nap, but I intend to check it out today after work. If it's fuel, excellent. I'll replace an injector and be done with it. If it's coolant, however, what are my most likely culprits? The EGR and oil coolers are stock, so maybe them. I would consider head gaskets, but that seems a little unlikely; while it was still running, there was no smoking, no notable pressurizing of the coolant system, etc. I am as of yet too unfamiliar with the underpinnings of the 6.0 to come up with any other possibilities, but I'm more than capable of dealing with them if you guys can suggest anything.
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I'm replacing my water pump and was wondering how to remove this.
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2013 6.7..46k miles.
I know we have crappy radiators. that's why I bought the premiumcare plan. had that replaced at 45k..200 miles later smelling coolant. take it in they say the water pump is leaking from a "weap hole"...great...get it back..still smell coolant. very fricken frustrated. Not what I expect from a 45,000 dollar truck. especially a 2013....
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Need to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
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have a 2006 f250 with the 6.0 Powerstroke diesel started overheating yesterday the ECT and EOTcheck fine with the scangauge always ran with in 8 degree's of each other. Thought maybe water pump impeller may have been slipping so it is new with no change. Fan kicks on like it should. Heater works good so don't think it is a thermostat.
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So I am on my 3rd water pump in 75k miles.
What I am assuming what was the original OEM pump died when the water pump pulley split in 2 and wrapped the belt around the pump at 187k.
The guy I use when I don't want to work on the beast put an O'rielly's lifetime new pump on it. That lasted almost 2 years and 40k miles.
I put another O'rielly's pump on it in the fall of 16' when it started leaking on cold mornings.
9k miles latter the last pump decided to start squeaking and leaking on cold mornings again!!
So I am now putting on a factory pump that should be made of gold for the price I paid for it from the local dealer. It was almost 2x's the cost of a new aftermarket pump.
My question to the collective is...is my experience with aftermarket pumps the norm?
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Recently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
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The truck is a 2004 f250. Build date is 7/ 03 so its an early 04. I have been in a parking lot for 3 days now with no money trying to get this truck to start. Me and my dad replaced the ipr pigtail and the ipr thinking this might have been the problem, because the ipr pigtail had a damaged connector.
Before doing this work the icp sensor connector had no oil in it, now after replacing the ipr and cranking the engine the icp has some oil in the connector, could this cause a short and not let the truck start, and if so will unplugging the icp allow the truck to start?
We were having trouble with no starts before this happened and when it did all we had to was push the ground wire back further that goes back to the ficm and the truck would start, but that is not working anymore.
Is it possible the ipr is not seated properly or the new ipr is bad out of the box? Or maybe the made in tawain pigtail connector to the ipr is bad?
We are thinking it may be a short somewhere in the harness since everytime we pushed the ground to the ficm up further to where it grounds before when we had no start problems this might have took the short out of the ipr or icp pigtails and allowing the truck to start. Injectors are buzzing when key is turned and I can hear the fuel pump.
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The gist is that my 2006 Prius would not start, even with an attempted jump, and now the dealer (Keany Mesa Toyota in San Diego) says the total cost of repair will be $2400 for a new junction box relay and water pump ($800/$2400). I am stunned at the cost and am questioning the need for both jbr and wp -- but apparently, wp is leaking. About a year ago, the expensive battery was replaced, luckily under warranty , so no cost. Don't know if jbr, wp and battery failures are related, typical repairs or we just have a lemon or getting ripped off. is the water pump recall from years ago relevant here? Should we get a competing bid from a non-dealer/Prius expert (is there one in SD, a search of Prius chat found 1 recommendation but it was rather weak), or just get the damn work done and have a stiff drink to deal with it, or maybe it is time to get a new car - Prius or other (what's the chance the dealer give us a good trade-in deal?)
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So I'm stumped I have an 04 6 liter and I have no power to my fuel pump. My fuse under my Dash is good which is a 20 amp fuse which is number 40. My inertia switch is not tripped and I have power to it however my fuel pump does not have power what else could it be? Is there a relay somewhere else?
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2004 6.0 and I put in a new WIF sensor and took off the cover and cleaned the junk out but it still comes on after a minute or 2. What am I missing??
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I have a 2004 E350 6.0 with a bad vacuum pump. I tried looking on Youtube for a video on replacing the pump but no luck. Looking for a video or instructions on replacing the pump? It looks fairly easy but you need to be a snake to gain access to the pump bolts.
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My water pump went out. Besides the obvious replacing the pump is there anything else I should do while making the repair?
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I have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
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How hard is the water pump to replace on 1999 f250 7.3 ...
Any thing special i need to know before tackling this job ...
Also is there any step by step instructions ???
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For the last four months my 04 F350 has been having the same problem every now and then. Cruising down the highway at a decent speed and the fuel pedal/fuel shuts off. Only lasts seconds then re-engages. Two lights come on. Low fuel and water in fuel. I changed the internal fuel pump last week and it did it again tonight. The truck runs great otherwise except for an occasional death shake while stopped at a light. No codes came up and FICM is at 54.
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I am bringing in my V6 2005 Camry XLE in for a pulley recall and have reached 90,000 miles. The dealer told me I should also have the timing belt, water pump and engine seals replaced since they are all under the same engine side cover. I am considering the timing belt, but do I need to replace the oil seals and water pump?
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Can you replace the passenger side up pipe without pulling the turbo, etc? My bellows blew out. Y-pipe is still ok. I've already deleted the EGR, so what's the best to put back? Go back to the original style or just put in a straight pipe? Where to get one?
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Ran fine, did the head gaskets ,egr delete, oil cooler and 12mm dummy plugs. Primed the fuel system, oil pressure looks good on the guage , spins fine but doesn't seem to be making any attempt at starting . Gave it a shot of quick start and it never so much as kicked. Everything looks good, nothing leaking and nothing obvious. To top it off we are without power after Hurricane Mathew left his mark.
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2005 Camry XLE with 4 cylinder. Is it a good idea to change engine oil after replacing the water pump? Another words, is there a chance of getting antifreeze or debris in the engine oil when changing the pump or are the 2 separate in the 4 cyl. engine?
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I replaced a timing belt and related parts on a v 6 atq motor and three weeks later there's a pretty good oil leak, where its from or if oil leak can be related to timing belt replacement... leak seems to be in same area as crank pulley but not sure...
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