Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - How To Replace Thermostat In E350 Van
Sep 13, 2015
I bought a 2004 E350 van that has been driven 9000 miles in the past 6 years. Replacing a thermostat in an E350 6.0 Powerstroke van?
My van is running on the cold side ECT 176-180 when idling. It will reach 190 when I am driving. The EOT is 6-10 degrees higher.
I am flushing the system with Restore and plan to replace the T-stat soon when it arrives from Amazon. I have 3 gallons Cat ECT-1 full strength coolant and a lot of distilled and reverse osmosis water for the flush.
Is it a long procedure? There is not much room in a van to work with ease. If it's too involved, I will find some over time at work and pay my mechanic to do the install.
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I have a 2004 E350 6.0 with a bad vacuum pump. I tried looking on Youtube for a video on replacing the pump but no luck. Looking for a video or instructions on replacing the pump? It looks fairly easy but you need to be a snake to gain access to the pump bolts.
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.
The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)
I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.
First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?
The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?
The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?
I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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'06 powerstroke, 215k stock
Doing a coolant flush, took the thermostat out but cannot figure out how to get it out of the housing.
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I just added 2 used 08 E350s to the fleet both about 180k on em and 1 has a little issue with oil temp and pressure. Driving ect is 222 and oil temp hits 240 then oil gauge drops to 0 and oil light comes on. I know the cooler is junk, but I am gonna pull the lp pump off and see what I find. I have a chance to fix this, or should I just order the 13k box with a reman in it.
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Went today to check out a buddy's truck, 06 F350 164k egr and cooler delete. He finally did his thermostat yesterday, after not having warm heat for months. Today on the way to work, had great heat for about 10 miles, then it went cold. Pulled over to check coolant, cracked cap loose, let pressure out, now had heat again. Same thing on the way home. Had the white streaks down from the cap, lost a small amount of coolant, just at min line now. He's owned this truck since 48k and no heads have never been off.
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I'm about to replace my IPR and my thermostat, and just watched a video saying after replacing the thermostat you need to bleed the air out of the system to get rid of air pockets so you don't overheat the engine. Is this true and if so how do you do it? Also, how much coolant do I need to drain before taking off the upper radiator hose?
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A friend brought to me this 06 E350 with a 6.0, which stalled on him while driving. The van will crank over good and strong, but won't run. It will how ever fire, and almost run until you let the key back (i would describe it as it does run with assistance from the starter). the FICM has 12V in and 47.5V out. And ICP is around 650 psi till it fires then it raises to 1215 psi. there are no codes either - I'm not familiar with these 6.0l...
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One of my batteries on my van is on the frame rail. The box rusted out so I routed the battery into the back of the van for now. The van wouldn't start because the batteries were low. I charged the battery in the front engine bay overnight but it did not charge the 2nd battery, does that mean there's a disconnect between the two batteries? I thought they were in parallel.
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I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
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When I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
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Truck has an SCT tune from Innovative Diesel.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
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I bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
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I've got a 2005 E350 6.0L with a 4x4 conversion and Sportsmobile penthouse roof. We barely made it out of Big Bend NP yesterday. Here's the protrusion of events...
Had rough starting for a while (separate conversation). Yesterday AM had a tough start and check engine came on. We were about 5 miles up a dirt road, no major off roading but dirt and bumps along the way down. Throughout the day made a handful of stops/starts. Each time battery light would stay on and then go off after getting to about 2k RPM. On the drive out I noticed the battery gauge decreasing.
Turned off all radio, lights, etc. Kept dropping and eventually the "limp home" mode kicked in with the battery gauge below L. Maybe 20 miles of safety mode at 50mph all gauges went off. Still driving. Another 5 minutes all gauges kicked on and showed normal. Stopped, turned off and restarted and drove normal the rest of the way into town and full highway speeds.
I have it in a shop now but would love to back up what they might tell me. My guess. Loose connection to alternator or battery somewhere. I originally thought the alternator had crapped out but it having kicked back on with no issues for the last 30 miles makes me think that's not it. Batteries are only 3 months old. Battery gauge back to normal today and started up/made its way to the mechanic no problem.
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I recently noticed my 2005 F250 6.0 was running really cool, like barely making it out of the 170's. I guess it is time to replace my thermostat which I just replaced about two years ago. The question is should I replace it with another stock 192 degree thermostat or go for a 200 degree Mishimoto? I found where some where going to that one and it is supposed to make everything run better and the thermostat lasts longer. Any pros or cons to installing a hotter one?
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
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