I have a 2004 f-550 sd with a 6.0. I am having a problem with cyls, 2, 4, 6 and 8 dropping out at idle. if you rev the motor up they work fine. Could I have a bad injector oring? Seems that iap pressure is good. And seems funny that it is just the one side.
View 14 RepliesThe service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
View 11 Replies2004 6.0 160K....
I have a very hard to hear tinging sound that emanates from near the right bank--possibly more audible toward the front of the motor. It is very hard to hear but it is there. it is higher pitch than the "diesel" sound, and much lower in volume. I had thought it was my lower alternator (dual alternator setup), but I ran it without the lower belt and the sound is still there.
I think the sound tings at a faster rate with RPM increase, but in truth, I am not certain, but it is drowned out by engine noise. Using the base engine test to spin the engine over I do not hear it, BUT it might also be that the engine doesn't spin over fast enough. During the test the engine spins fast and smooth. I did the test with a warm motor.
I have AE software and have a good balance (after just changing injector #8). I know that cylinder 1 (passenger side) is after #8 in firing sequence so I was kind of hoping that the noise was coming from a max'd out injector trying to compensate for the bad #8. However, after installing the new #8 injector the engine idles smoothly with a straight-line contribution balance---and the right bank noise is still there.
Could it just be an injector making noise that will eventually fail?
Could it be a cracked rocker or a bend pushrod?
Could it be something else...?
Is there anyway to figure this out without pulling the right side valve cover? I guess I've decided this is the next step, but I'm looking for any thoughts before I commit to that. I've done things like this in the past and my luck says I'd pull the cover and not find a smoking gun.
I have 01 F550 6spd 4x4. sounds rhythmic, smooth at idle but just over 1200 is a pattern surge but doesn't sound like one cylinder, cel is off, ICP and pigtail changed as it was leaking , no change. From what I've read duty on ICP and IPR should be about same % I've included the codes I've gotten, I have the epc disconnected right now as I thought it was a wastegate issue, checking the ICP plug next,anything I've missed? It had a cyl 8 contribution at idle which I hear is common? Will changing CPS work with that one? Think it's a grey one. There's no water in bowl I replaced filter, since replaced ICP, pigtail, and bleeding fuel bowl and new filter the codes are gone but still misses, will be checking uvch, injector buzz test showed no faults. Old diesel guy said to flood with Stanadyne fuel treat?
View 9 RepliesSo I take my new (for me but used) 2007 F350 to the local Ford Dealer to have the oil changed, along with fuel and water separator filters. I even added some Archoil 9100 since it treated my 03 so well. Since I had no history of the last change I wanted to do it right away.
While its on the lift he notices a leak near the hydroboost. I think there on crack...but that's my opinion.
Anyways I look at it and I see a leak at one of the connections under the Master Cyl. Its the connection closest to the firewall. My question is there a oring in there that can be replaced or will I need to replace the entire part?
I have a 2006 F550 mini bus, that I just had the head studs done, egr delete and air intake changed. Last night we took it out for a run to test it since we just installed a new fan clutch. We can here the fan kicking on and off. The problem is, we drove it say 60 miles, up and down a mountain, had no issues. We got out and ate for about an hour, and then drove it back the same way. This time on a slight upgrade my check gauges came on, and I seen the temp rising. I let off the fuel, and it dropped back down. So the rest of the way home I was easy on the fuel and made it back with out heating up again.
Today, we took it for a ride and at idle before we left the ECT was 172, and EOT 170, as we drove I watched the temps. Climbing up a fairly steep mountain, we were doing about 65mph, for about a 5 mile climb. During the climb my ECT was 201 and EOT 226, at the hottest point it was ECT 204 and the EOT was 226.
I am assuming it could be a possible water pump and or oil cooler. Reason I am thinking the water pump, is because after it over heated, I noticed if I let off the fuel quick after running I would hear a noise like a puffing sound. It was the coolant shooting out of the degas bottle. It did this several times when letting off the fuel quick, which I think was the pump was allowing the coolant to be pushed back in from the heat.
I already ordered a new pump, which if bad could also cause the oil not to cool as the pump is not pushing enough coolant? (Also I only lose coolant if it gets to hot)...
Working on a 2015 f-550 with a 6.7 power stroke. Damaged the wiring harness and fuel gauge not working now. Where could I find a wiring diagram? The low fuel is now causing it to not regen. We have continuity through the wires and they have been repaired but gauge still does not work. Currently now power to fuel gauge sender?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 F350 CCLB with camper package (front coil springs @ 6,000 lbs). I was thinking of installing F550 coils springs, which are rated at 7,000 lbs, to provide greater lift up front.
Before performing this modification, what lift was achieved up front?
My endeavor is not to achieve level, per se, but rather allow for increased tire size, such as 35's and ground clearance.
I need to connect a remote start stop for a bucket truck attachment to this new 2016 F550. Found everything except the ignition wiring harness diagram. Need to know what I can tie in to.
View 4 RepliesDrove the truck to the store tonight about 5 minutes away and everything seemed fine. Went to leave the parking lot and noticed the check engine light was on. Pulled out my tablet, dongle and fired up Torque Pro. Retrieved error code P0170. Truck has a little over 12,700 miles and is complete stock. I ran a search and didn't come up with much info on this code other than what Just Stroken posted in another post.
[URL]....
Looking for more information about this code?
I went to change the small filter that is mounted just behind the radiator and is inline with the 5r100 . with a socket on the bottom all i was able to do was flex the brackets going to the 3 mounting bolts as this thing is on there real good. Looking for examples on unthreading the bottom cup to access filter?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 F550 with a 6.0. Recently I have had issues with a long crank before starting at times but once it started there were no issues driving. Yesterday it started up in the morning, made a few stops then it wouldn't start at all. Cranked strong but no start. Had it towed back, sat for an hour or two now it starts again. Put a gauge on it and all readings are good. Did have a P2285 code which the ICP sensor. I do suspect there could be an issue with the egr cooler as it needs coolant occasionally. Could that have anything to do with the no start? Truck has started fine today. Why start sometimes then not?
View 11 RepliesAbout a year or so ago, cyl 5 glow plug failed. 6 months later number 1 failed. Now number 3. I seem to remember someone mentioning that the module can sometimes cause produce similar problems. Are there two circuits in the module, one for the left and one for the right, or just one circuit for both? 167K on it so it doesn't surprise me that they fail but just odd that they are all on the same side.
View 5 RepliesWhat to do 2011 F550 RampTruck 11,850 miles on it the vehicle has been back to the dealer 5 times for the same trouble code P0299. After the last time it was in they had it for 2 weeks seemed to be fixed. Last week one of my drivers was towing a Chevy S10 50 or so miles and heard a very faint ticking like a stone in the tire that got instantly worse and before he could pull over started rapping and stalled out. We towed it back to the dealer they removed the Cab disassembled the engine and found a "blown piston" is there quote. What should we do about this problem the dealer is supposedly fighting with Ford and Ford doesn't want to put in a new engine.They want to fix it instead....
View 12 RepliesOn my monitor, when I really get on it, I see the boost come up nicely and then when it gets to about 22 -23 lbs, it drops to zero on my monitor display, but the engine does not seem to falter in anyway. Why or what I might do about it?
I find it very annoying and do not believe it should be doing so, thus figure it might be causing some other problems or so. ..? I hear others talking about seeing 24 and up boost being displayed... why not me?
This is the second time this has happened to me . Truck runs fine shut it off go to re start and it's a no start. I can watch the ficm volts drop to 0 from 48.5. Then it's 0 until it decides it gets power again?
View 8 RepliesHave a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 6.0 extended cab truck. It has 223,000 miles on it and has been running great. Bought it here in Arkansas where I live and recently drove it to Texas and back after having just put some Hot Shot oil treatment cleaner in it. I ran it the 1000 miles as it suggests. Just the other day as it was hitting the 1000 mile mark the truck started to lunge/runaway and stalled. I finally got it back home and started looking into the issue. Based on what it was doing, (lunging/running away, and at idle in park random burst of rpms and then dying after doing it a few times), I started to do some research. Most of the answers I found claimed it was the IPR valve. I found that the IPR valve is supposed to, as claimed by some, be pulled and inspected every 100,000 miles are so and if need be replaced or the rebuild kit gotten for it. So I decided to just replace it as well as the oil, oil filter and fuel filters.
When replacing the IPR valve I noticed that it was original and that its screen was missing. I didn't have any problem moving the little piston in the center of the shaft with a small bolt however that doesn't really mean that it isn't bad. I tried a magnet to see if the screen was still in there and nothing came out. I did not try using a camera as I do not currently have one, to look inside the port to see if I saw it. After replacing the IPR valve with a brand new one and changing the oil I started the truck. It seemed to be running a little ruff so I let it warm up. Not one minute later the exact same thing started happening, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), so I called it a night. The next morning I decided to change the fuel filters. No that it matters the order in which I did it, but I changed the top end filter first and the the one on the frame with the dealer recommended OEM filters as was the case with the oil. I did find in the filter on the frame that there was a small amount of sand and clay soil looking matter in the filter. I did clean out the filter housing as well.
After replacing the filters I started the truck to warm it up. I noticed that it was still running a little ruff but no random, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However after five minutes it started coming back. I finished letting the truck warm up and took it for a drive. Got it up to between 7-80mph for about 15 miles to try and see if I could "blow out" whatever may be in the fuel if that was even an issue I do not know. The truck seemed to get more power and run a little more smoothly so I stopped at my buddies house not to far from where I was and let it idle. No issues other than a little ruff idle. After about 10min I took off towards home doing similar speeds. I noticed at a little over 2000rpms that the truck was shaking a little but so I dropped the speed down. When I got home not more than one min after idling the same issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), started happening again.
At this point I took back to the interwebs and came across a post that said the ICP might be bad and does cause this issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However I also noticed that this is a huge debate as to whether or not the ICP can cause this. Ford master mechanics say no and other mechanics say yes and round and round it goes. I decided to do the simple test many recommended which was to simply unplug the ICP and see if anything changes. Things did change. No more lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). Not more than two minutes after plugging it back in, allowing the computer to account for it now, the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) came back. In the middle of it doing this I unplugged it and that went away. So needless to say I replaced the ICP and voila the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) is gone but the ruff idle is still there along with a slight loss of power.
To answer some questions:
1. The oil and water are not mixing so I am almost positive that the heads are fine
2. The intercooler couplings are leaking a bit. I have ordered the new ones and will replace them as soon as they come in. Can this cause the issue?
3. I am blowing no white or black smoke except for when the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) issue was present and the truck almost died. It would knock occasionally when it almost died and would send a slight puff of black smoke which I assume is a low or high fuel issue from the truck trying to die
4. I have not had the no start issue at all
5. I did not see any debris in the oil during the oil change
6. I didn't do the air test on the ICP port as I do not have the adapter.
7. The only code I got on the IBD II port was when I unplugged the ICP which was to be expected
8. I found no damaged wires
I am at the point where I am wanting to take it to ford to have them run a diagnostic on it but am wondering if there is anything else I need to be looking for. Here are a few questions I have.
1. Does this sound like a bad injector? (When I bought the truck it would sound like a misfire or ruff idle condition was present for about 5-15 seconds and then it would smooth out with no issues. It would run a little ruff if you tried to take off without letting it warm up, which I did once or twice and low rpms, but when it warmed up no issues were present).
2. Could this be the HPOP?
3. Could this be the FCIM? (The previous owner had replaced the FCIM not to long ago with one from Ford I believe. Said it cost him something like $700)
4. Could this be something clogging the oil screen under the manifold?
My final question right now is do any of you know where or what brand OBD II reader or software I can get for a decent price that will tell me the voltage of each injector and FCIM is without me having to go to Ford to get it looked at.
Nothing but trouble lately with this thing. All the big stuff is done and just switched to Synthetic oil too. Now I have these intermittent RPM drops of about 200 - 400 RPM. Seems worse under load.
I've been advised to check the ICP pigtail which I can't do without taking it apart. I did program the ICP volts into the SGII. See the video.
Power stroke video - YouTube
I have a 2004 Excursion Limited with a 6.0 PSD. Recently I have noticed my temp, I have a Scan Gauge II, slowly climbing when I am idling. On the highway it runs anywhere from 175-205 depending on time of year and load I'm pulling. Lately I have noticed it starting to climb while sitting in a parking lot at idle after coming off a steady speed run. Temp goes from about 175 up to about 205 just at idle. It is a slow creep up not a dramatic change. I have checked my coolant levels and it is full. I have made sure the front of the radiator is clear.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 Replies