Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F350 Will Run Great Then Eventually Die
Dec 22, 2016
2004 later year 6.0 F-350. 155,000 miles. All stock.
It will start and run fine. Drove it for an hour then began running rough. Nursed it back home. When idling it eventually died. It will eventually fire up but runs really bad. It has done this a few times. I've done fuel filters and 911 fuel treatment because thought it was gelling. No luck...
It has injector circuit fault codes that pop up. Only other code is MAF sensor low but in range. First it was codes for cylinders 3,5. Then 3,5,8. Then 1,3,5,8. Now just injector 1. Keeps changing as I refresh. Battery power fine. FICM is 47.5- 48volts and in sync. ICP at idle is 600-700psi. IPR is 25%.
We had a problem with blowing turbo pipe off so may be overboosting. Not sure. No code thrown relating to that. Possible wire chafing? Maybe bad tank of fuel? Not sure where to turn at this point.
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While driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
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I have '03 6.0 when it gets to full temp it will run horrible and eventually stall. It will take a few long cranks to restart. will drive a little bit but will stall again. It will idle all day long even after a stall. IPR @hot idle is 22 and ICP @hot idle is 640. IPR and IPC readings seem to run good throughout the rpm range except for when it dies. Then the IPR is anywhere from 71 to 85. Has new ICP and Pigtail. Runs very good until hot. I am leaning towards HPOP.
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I have an 04 f-350 that I did an EGR delete, new Ford oil cooler, new radiator (not ford), new thermostat (not ford), coolant filter, glow plugs and harness, MBRP theoretical 4in downpipe (was 3.5 to converter) flushed cooling system with lots of tap water before the delete, replaced coolant with Cat 1 ELC and distilled water, fresh T6 5W-40 and filter, several weeks ago. Was troubleshooting a wireing problem and found what looks like oil sludge in the degass bottle while under the hood.
Possible that while doing EGR delete I clipped a gasket? Truck runs great, no smoke out the tail pipe. There is what looks like about a cup floating on top the coolant. Oil level is down about a 1/2 quart and clean, no water in it. Where do I start looking?
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I have a 2004 Ford f 350 superduty. Everything runs great. Now the other day my fan came on and stayed on for three days now. It goes with my rpm so when I am doing a 100 down the highway in hopes it will disengage but won't.. Everything is Stalk.
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I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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About a month ago my truck was cutting out at one point it wouldn't even crank, got it going took it to the shop found my driver side battery clamp cracked, replaced it aswell as the egr valve because I had a p0401 code. Valve was pretty gummed up. Now recently it started doing it again. It cut out and it started right back up then later that night drove it two blocks and died, turn the key on and my glow plug light stayed on and wouldn't crank, was checking over all my connections and nothing seemed to be wrong. And then randomly it seemed like everything reset and my injectors would buzz, glow plugs cycled and fuel pump kicked on and started right up and drove home.
I replaced the pcm relay because one terminal looked to have gotten hot. Let her warm up in the driveway and she cut out twice but started right up. Checked over the connections again, replaced and cleaned both batteries, took it for a drive and no problems, later on started up again and let her warm up and cut out again, this time I got the p0401 code again. (Egr insufficient flow). I'm at a loss not sure where to keep going. It's an 04 f350 with egr delete, banks turbo and intake, with edge juice with attitude tuner on level 3 never switched levels around. And some other add on and mods that could make the list go on.
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A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.
I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,
HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.
Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...
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I have a 04 F350 Dually and I am not getting any oil to my high oil pressure. Truck will crank but won't turn over. The high oil pressure pump is fine. What am I missing?
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Ok a little background on this truck. it is a 04 F350 6.0. Early build, with the ipr under the turbo an the earlier hpop. A few years ago the oil cooler blew on me and I got it rebuilt with a full bullet proof diesel kit and high flow egr cooler. Last year my turbo went out and I had it rebuilt and added a 5" MBRP turbo back exhaust. there have been multiple other parts updated and replaced but those are the major ones.
A few weeks ago I began loosing my oil pressure at idle. It was hard starting as well. I though that was from the cold winter here but it apparently wasn't. Before I had a chance to check the truck out, it lost all power on my way to work and staled out on me.
I just finished tearing into the high pressure oil pump. Found the ball plug was gone from the side. Tapped and plugged it. When I started it up it seemed to be idling fine. After it warmed up a bit i gave it some throttle and it would not go over 1000 rpm and spit out black smoke. Once the engine temp came up the idle speed dropped to around 300 rpm and eventually stalled. My oil pressure never dropped and the check engine light never came on. With the engine up to temp it will turn over and fire but as soon as I let go of the key it dies.
I do not currently have anything to get readings other than whats on the cluster. Do i have any options that wont cost me a ton to get my readings?
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 powerstroke i recently fixed a oil leak in my remote oil cooler and after I was finished it ran fine and ran fine for a few days I noticed yesterday it had a bit of a rough start and some today but would start and run normal. Started the truck this morning and drove it a bit and then let it sit while I went to the dentist came back out and truck wouldn't start. I am getting 200-330 icp with the ipr cycle at 88.5 ficm sync is good and colts are at 12.5 unplugged icp sensor to see if it would start after that and it disnt start so I ruled that out.
I'm currently waiting on AAA to bring my truck home for me but trying to make sure I'm right to start working on it tomorrow. I am thinking the ipr valve is clogged. Am I right to think this may be the issue? When I first installed my remote oil cooler I had the same issue crank no start turned out to be the ipr valve was gunked up and I ended up replacing it 300 dollars later. Then it started and everything was fine. So basically am I right to start at the ipr valve or should I start somewhere else?
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M buddy's truck just died and won't start. So far we have changed the ficm because the voltage would fluctuate down to 25, the ficm harness as it was chaffed through and bare wires touching each other, both fuel filter, tested the alternator, new batteries, new air filter and bubble test. The truck spins over and tries to go but won't. I have also tried starting it with the icp disconnected with no change. The secondary filter had lots of bubbles coming into it while filling it for the bubble test, but we did that a few times and no more bubbles. When trying to start you can sound fuel flowing through the secondary filter, is this normal? While trying to start there is black smoke coming out of the tail pipe. We have also tried leaving it plugged in over night and no go.
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Battery light came on today. Checked voltage with truck running and only getting 11.8 / 11.9 volts at each battery. Alternator shot or ????? 2004 F350
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I bought my f 350 new from the dealer and have had many of the problems associated with this truck. Now I have a severe shudder while under acceleration when i either let off the gas or increase speed the shudder goes away. My dealer thinks it is injectors but I have little faith. Shudder seems to be rpm consistent and seems to be in the front end. oh yea it idles great and runs great except at that specific range.
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I have a 2004 Ford F350 6.0. It is leaking diesel from the front of the engine to the ground. I have a video of this and pictures as well but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. What I can do??Puddle after about 20 min of running.
Dripping from here, left of hose....
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I have a 6.0L Powerstroke with about 74k miles. I've owned it about a year. this weekend while driving on the highway at about 55mph i slowed to make a turn. As it came to idle i noticed it was idling real rough. As I accelerated it barely got across the highway. I went to where i was going and let it idle but gave it gas and raised the rpm's to about 1k.
I was concerned it was going to die. As I left it seemed to be better but as i drove it would get real rough and then go away. I accelerated a couple of times engaging the boost and it seemed to be better. I made it home and parked it, but i let it idle before i turned it off.
Now it will not start. it just cranks. everything is pretty much stock. i replaced the fuel filters back in december and also did the blue spring upgrade. I have a OBDII but i didn't have it with me so i wasn't monitoring at the this time. What should be my next step?
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Pulled the trigger today and bought a 2004 F350 DRW King Ranch with 200000 miles. Using Forscan Lite on my iPhone, KOEO FICM voltage was right at 48. During start it went up a bit. While out for my highway road test for EOT/ECT differential (never went above 10 degrees).
I noticed that the FICM voltage would drop to the bottom of the Forscan scale (40 volts) when I was accelerating and then go back to 47.5 when I reached my cruising speed. Is this normal?
Batteries are brand new from Ford. I didn't notice the battery voltage. Truck seems to run great to me, but this is my first 6.0. I also got DTC's for all 8 injectors saying Injector Circuit Low.
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