Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F350 - No Crank Randomly / Injectors Buzzing
Aug 7, 2016
I think my starter took a s hit like I said truck randomly doesn't crank all lights on dash come on can hear injectors buzzing turn key nothing. Took wire off passenger's side of truck yellow wire touched to pos post solenoid click no crank. So I had the old lady sit in the drivers seat well I hit the starter with my BMFH started right up could something else cause this or should I just bite the bullet and replace the starter?
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I have been having trouble w my 04 I checked all fuses all relays all dash lights work, no buzzing on injectors when key turned on. I checked push pull plug for starter it turns over with direct to battery but still does not start. New computer on fender.
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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2004 f350 after i shut the truck off something was buzzing. So I popped the hood and found its the injector harness or injectors.Is this normal or something I need to look into?
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About a month ago my truck was cutting out at one point it wouldn't even crank, got it going took it to the shop found my driver side battery clamp cracked, replaced it aswell as the egr valve because I had a p0401 code. Valve was pretty gummed up. Now recently it started doing it again. It cut out and it started right back up then later that night drove it two blocks and died, turn the key on and my glow plug light stayed on and wouldn't crank, was checking over all my connections and nothing seemed to be wrong. And then randomly it seemed like everything reset and my injectors would buzz, glow plugs cycled and fuel pump kicked on and started right up and drove home.
I replaced the pcm relay because one terminal looked to have gotten hot. Let her warm up in the driveway and she cut out twice but started right up. Checked over the connections again, replaced and cleaned both batteries, took it for a drive and no problems, later on started up again and let her warm up and cut out again, this time I got the p0401 code again. (Egr insufficient flow). I'm at a loss not sure where to keep going. It's an 04 f350 with egr delete, banks turbo and intake, with edge juice with attitude tuner on level 3 never switched levels around. And some other add on and mods that could make the list go on.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 powerstroke i recently fixed a oil leak in my remote oil cooler and after I was finished it ran fine and ran fine for a few days I noticed yesterday it had a bit of a rough start and some today but would start and run normal. Started the truck this morning and drove it a bit and then let it sit while I went to the dentist came back out and truck wouldn't start. I am getting 200-330 icp with the ipr cycle at 88.5 ficm sync is good and colts are at 12.5 unplugged icp sensor to see if it would start after that and it disnt start so I ruled that out.
I'm currently waiting on AAA to bring my truck home for me but trying to make sure I'm right to start working on it tomorrow. I am thinking the ipr valve is clogged. Am I right to think this may be the issue? When I first installed my remote oil cooler I had the same issue crank no start turned out to be the ipr valve was gunked up and I ended up replacing it 300 dollars later. Then it started and everything was fine. So basically am I right to start at the ipr valve or should I start somewhere else?
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My nephew has a 2004 F350 that will crank but will not start. It will build oil pressure on the gauge. There is no injector buzz and no communication through OBD2 port. Is the PCM dead?
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I went out to start my truck yesterday which is a 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel. It wouldn't crank over so of course I tried to jump start it and it fired right up. Went to town while I was there got 2 new batteries and put them in went to start truck and again nothing but will only start when jumped even with new batteries I'm guessing there is a grounding out issue. Where to start?
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I have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
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I found some 04 injectors for a good price, will the work on my 06?
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I have 1 bad injector well it's missing when it's cold and two others that are "weak" I'm wondering what kind of job it would be to do by myself?
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2004 F250 6.0 and it's a no start. I have a snap on scanner and I did koeo test and it came up as inj circuit low for all 8 inj. I performed "the buzz test " and all inj click. The voltage on the scanner for the ficm is 52 and everything I read say that's more that enough. Where I should look?
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03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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I have a 2006 F350. I have long crank times. No Codes. I have Autoenginuity with Enhanced Codes and everything shows fine. I replaces standpipe and dummy plugs. Glow Plugs and harness. I was hoping it not be the STC but I needed to do oil cooler so wanted to eliminate STC. Got truck apart and the STC Fitting is newer style so I'm kinda bummed out. Not sure if I'm missing something and as far as I have it torn down is there anyway to test what could be causing the problem? Or just put it back together and keep my fingers crossed that whoever put the new STC fitting in screwed it up. I'm beginning to not like my truck.
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2007 350 the truck sat overnight (15 hrs) I went to start the truck and it had to crank for about 3 seconds which is abnormal for my truck?? It was about 80 degrees outside. Is there any reason for that?
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So my recently purchased 2005 f350 has an abnormal long crank. I searched all the internet and everything pointed to STC fitting. Well I knew I had some other things I wanted to knock out so I ended up buying an update kit from sinister diesel. It included an updated fitting, new degas cap, updared turbo oil feed and return lines, blue spring update, and "dummy" tubes or something like that.
During the last few days I have removed the turbo, and finally got to the hpop. As I was removing the turbo I thought I might have the updated lines as there was no braided area in the feed tube. Sure enough I pulled the hpop and I have the one piece fitting. So now that I have wasted all this time removing all this stuff for no reason I still don't know what is causing my long crank. I am going to probably install the new fitting and lines anyway but where do I go from here?
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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So I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.
So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?
But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?
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I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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