Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F350 - No Crank But Will Only Start When Jumped Even With New Batteries
Feb 22, 2016
I went out to start my truck yesterday which is a 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel. It wouldn't crank over so of course I tried to jump start it and it fired right up. Went to town while I was there got 2 new batteries and put them in went to start truck and again nothing but will only start when jumped even with new batteries I'm guessing there is a grounding out issue. Where to start?
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 powerstroke i recently fixed a oil leak in my remote oil cooler and after I was finished it ran fine and ran fine for a few days I noticed yesterday it had a bit of a rough start and some today but would start and run normal. Started the truck this morning and drove it a bit and then let it sit while I went to the dentist came back out and truck wouldn't start. I am getting 200-330 icp with the ipr cycle at 88.5 ficm sync is good and colts are at 12.5 unplugged icp sensor to see if it would start after that and it disnt start so I ruled that out.
I'm currently waiting on AAA to bring my truck home for me but trying to make sure I'm right to start working on it tomorrow. I am thinking the ipr valve is clogged. Am I right to think this may be the issue? When I first installed my remote oil cooler I had the same issue crank no start turned out to be the ipr valve was gunked up and I ended up replacing it 300 dollars later. Then it started and everything was fine. So basically am I right to start at the ipr valve or should I start somewhere else?
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My 2014 350 DRW has a battery problem......If it sets for a couple hours, it won't start. With a jump from a very small battery box, it starts right up. I charged it last week for 4 hours and still when in OKC it would need to be jumped at each restart. Do I have one of the batteries going bad.....
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My nephew has a 2004 F350 that will crank but will not start. It will build oil pressure on the gauge. There is no injector buzz and no communication through OBD2 port. Is the PCM dead?
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About a month ago my truck was cutting out at one point it wouldn't even crank, got it going took it to the shop found my driver side battery clamp cracked, replaced it aswell as the egr valve because I had a p0401 code. Valve was pretty gummed up. Now recently it started doing it again. It cut out and it started right back up then later that night drove it two blocks and died, turn the key on and my glow plug light stayed on and wouldn't crank, was checking over all my connections and nothing seemed to be wrong. And then randomly it seemed like everything reset and my injectors would buzz, glow plugs cycled and fuel pump kicked on and started right up and drove home.
I replaced the pcm relay because one terminal looked to have gotten hot. Let her warm up in the driveway and she cut out twice but started right up. Checked over the connections again, replaced and cleaned both batteries, took it for a drive and no problems, later on started up again and let her warm up and cut out again, this time I got the p0401 code again. (Egr insufficient flow). I'm at a loss not sure where to keep going. It's an 04 f350 with egr delete, banks turbo and intake, with edge juice with attitude tuner on level 3 never switched levels around. And some other add on and mods that could make the list go on.
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I think my starter took a s hit like I said truck randomly doesn't crank all lights on dash come on can hear injectors buzzing turn key nothing. Took wire off passenger's side of truck yellow wire touched to pos post solenoid click no crank. So I had the old lady sit in the drivers seat well I hit the starter with my BMFH started right up could something else cause this or should I just bite the bullet and replace the starter?
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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2004 6.0 truck ran fine parked it, went out next morning and has been a crank no start. Brand new ficm put in today. Also scangauge readings while cranking.
IPR DUTY 30%
ICP -1000+
ICPV-.2 and rises
FICM-49.5 Never drop below 48
FICM LOGIC-11.5V And it also drops to 9 volts cranking
FICM SYNC-Yes
CAM/CRANK SYNC-Yes
I can here fuel pump running and have checked the bowl and fills in 3 second, also have held valve down in oil filter housing and it fills up in 4 seconds. Oil level perfect half tank fuel .. Also I get no smoke from tail pipe while trying to crank. Acts like it not firing or has no fuel... Driving me crazy been working on it for three weeks.
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Just installed lots of new parts on this late 04 6 liter HPOP, Stand pipes, nipple cup orings, head gaskets. and now she wont go. Just cranks. Doing an air test now, should I be able to hear anything form the oil fill tube? It builds oil pressure just not right away, I did have an icp code. but has gone away as of now (p2285). What's consider a long crank time?
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I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.
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I've got a 2004 6.0 4x4 broke down in Gillette WY that will crank but won't start. We've had a cert. Ford mechanic bring out the computer first time it showed the IPR valve so that was replaced. Now it's not throwing any codes. We had it running for about 2 hours a week ago but the next morning it wouldn't start again. We're at a loss of what else to check. Here's what we've checked & replaced so far:
2 new batteries
New ICP Sensor
New IPR Valve
New #6 Injector
New Cam Sensor
Checked all fuses and relays
Oil is good
Coolant is good.
High pressure fuel test checked ficm 48 volts as it should be.
It's not the hpop because oil pressure stays up when cranking for fifteen seconds.
Cleaned secondary filter housing.
All filters are good.
Checked fuel pump it's good. ....
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I have working on this one for a while ( sick wife keeping out of garage for some time) Truck fires up in the morning when cold then refuses to start when warm. Of course HPOP leak. HPOP was replaced 5k miles ago. Now today when I drove with AE connected truck all of sudden started to run rough on the highway. I pulled DTC P0279 low circuit for injector 7. My question is can the leak be at injector 7 on the oil rail? Maybe cracked injector? Waiting for the motor to cool so I can do pop off valve cover . BTW early 04 .
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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2004 6.0 Truck has been slow to start and sometimes took a few tries to get it to fire up. On monday the Truck would not start. The FICM was not getting sync. I figured it could be a bad connection to the FICM. I pulled the FICM, cleaned the contacts and reconnected it. The truck fired up. It ran all day Tuesday without incident but wednesday morning it would again not start. Again what was missing was FICM sync. This time disconnecting and plugging back in the FICM did not fix the problem. I have spent the last two days troubleshooting and am out of things to try.
The problem as it stands right now
The truck will crank but not start. Scanner says it has oil pressure, a steady 48v (FICM has new power supply). The IPR sits around 50% when cranking at 1200psi. However, the FICM will not get sync. I have worked my way down and tested both the Cam and Crank sensors from the PCM. The Crank sensor has a resistance of 360 ohms and produces a AC voltage of 500mV when cranking. The camshaft sensor produces 100mV AC when cranking (camshaft sensor was replaced as the original produced AC voltage seemed low 20mV, new sensor produces 100mV). I have tested the camshaft sensor at the sensor and at the PCM connector. This has lead me to believe both the cam and crank sensors are ok and their signals are being probably transmitted to the PCM.
I have tried to check the inputs to the FICM to confirm the signals are getting there. I was unable to find a good pin out diagram for the 2004 FICM but what I found told me the crankshaft was pin 5 and the camshaft was pin 10. When cranking, pin 5 (crankshaft) did not produce a signal and pin 10 (camshaft) had a 200mV DC signal. Despite searching I have been unable to find what the input signals to the FICM should be.
Right now I suspect bad wiring between the PCM and the FICM, or a bad PCM. This is based on having good signals to the PCM, but (what I think may be) a lack of crankshaft pos. sensor signal to the FICM. I am specifically looking for what the crank/camshaft pos. sensor signal at the FICM should be, as well as confirmation/disconfirmation on the diagnosis of bad PCM or PCM-to-FICM wiring
Truck Details
Ford F350 King Ranch 2004 6.0
Truck build date 11/18/2003
350,000 km
Studded
New FICM power supply
Stock truck; don't run any tunes
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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2004 F350 4x4 6.0 ... No start... changed fuel pump... lots and lots of bubbles in fuel filter canister.... what to check now... running fuel from external fuel tank not tank on truck... after crank no start fuel disappears from canister.
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A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.
I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,
HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.
Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...
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M buddy's truck just died and won't start. So far we have changed the ficm because the voltage would fluctuate down to 25, the ficm harness as it was chaffed through and bare wires touching each other, both fuel filter, tested the alternator, new batteries, new air filter and bubble test. The truck spins over and tries to go but won't. I have also tried starting it with the icp disconnected with no change. The secondary filter had lots of bubbles coming into it while filling it for the bubble test, but we did that a few times and no more bubbles. When trying to start you can sound fuel flowing through the secondary filter, is this normal? While trying to start there is black smoke coming out of the tail pipe. We have also tried leaving it plugged in over night and no go.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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