Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F350 - Intermittent Loss Of Power / Stall Or Stumble When Engine Is Cold
Jul 31, 2016
I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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Ok a little background on this truck. it is a 04 F350 6.0. Early build, with the ipr under the turbo an the earlier hpop. A few years ago the oil cooler blew on me and I got it rebuilt with a full bullet proof diesel kit and high flow egr cooler. Last year my turbo went out and I had it rebuilt and added a 5" MBRP turbo back exhaust. there have been multiple other parts updated and replaced but those are the major ones.
A few weeks ago I began loosing my oil pressure at idle. It was hard starting as well. I though that was from the cold winter here but it apparently wasn't. Before I had a chance to check the truck out, it lost all power on my way to work and staled out on me.
I just finished tearing into the high pressure oil pump. Found the ball plug was gone from the side. Tapped and plugged it. When I started it up it seemed to be idling fine. After it warmed up a bit i gave it some throttle and it would not go over 1000 rpm and spit out black smoke. Once the engine temp came up the idle speed dropped to around 300 rpm and eventually stalled. My oil pressure never dropped and the check engine light never came on. With the engine up to temp it will turn over and fire but as soon as I let go of the key it dies.
I do not currently have anything to get readings other than whats on the cluster. Do i have any options that wont cost me a ton to get my readings?
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2004 excursion 6.0, head studs, 4inch straight pipe, egr delete, sct live wire ts running vivians looney wild, so I recently rebuilt the trans (5r110w) just soft parts rebuild frictions and steels, and it has about 5000 miles on it since, but I have ran into the issue of the engine stalling when it's cold when I put it in gear, any gear that is, but once it's warm it's fine, just checked the fluid and it was in the sweet spot, also on my tuner the command gear is going from 2nd, 4th, and 6th completely skipping 1st, 3rd, 5th, trans was shifting normal until about 100 miles ago and my tuner is telling me my icp is 600ish at warm idle and at wot only seeing 1500 psi maybe, any clue as to what this would be? Truck won't start with stock tune, guessing the looney wild is ramping up the icp and is seeing at least 500psi to start. I'm thinking it's possibly the hpop.
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While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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I just bought a new to me, 2005 ford f-350 6.0L turbo diesel with 220,000 miles. It has an EGR delete, and aftermarket intake and exhaust. I am having power loss issues, and cold start issues, and judging from these symptoms, I figured it was the FICM. I thought it had to be the FICM. As per the tech folder on this site, I tested the FICM. I first learned that I have one of the Bullet proof FICM's, and when I tested it (3 times) it read between 57.5 and 58V. I conducted this test three times both with just turning the key, and with the truck running. I then took the truck into Ford, and they gave me a list of all of the codes the truck threw:
P0611
p0113
p0405
p0671
p0673
p0675
p0677
p0341
I researched all of these codes, and it seems to point to the FICM, but Ford stated they pulled a reading of 54.5v. The tech then told me that the upgraded bullet proof FICM probably ruined my injectors, because my injectors we not upgraded. Is this True?
Even though my FICM is above the low limit for voltage, can it still be going out? I am taking the truck in to have the batteries load tested, so I will know if they are contributing to my FICM failing.
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Its a 2003 f-350 6.0 started out just stalling out throw it in N it would fire right back up then started to sputter now I have a no start doesn't even try to start no smoke on crank. all of this between -3 and 5 degrees outside. According to my scan gauge ipr is 14.8, have ficm sync, ficm main is between 47 and 48 cranking, builds 0 icp irp duty cycle doesn't go up either. Pretty sure my icp is bad leaks oil though the sensor and pig tail is covered in oil. Truck has 197000 miles hpop, injectors, and ficm changed around 165000 oil cooler and blue spring at 1800000...
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2004 f350 4x4 sc dually 130K mi. Cranked truck this morning @ 18*F. Truck not plugged in but regular quick smooth startup. Noticed light blue smoke with normal condensation exhaust for about 5 seconds, then normal condensation exhaust for about 30 seconds. Drove truck at normal operating temps with 5* deltas. To my knowledge, truck has original turbo (Garrett), never been removed or cleaned by me. VGT at startup 70-72, running after warmup mid 50's. Is this a symptom of needing to replace turbo seal, and thorough cleaning while off?
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When I take off from a start it will intermittently stumble or hesitate, seems to be around 1500 rpm. have also noted it at higher speed while cruising. its more like a momentary power cut than a miss fire.
So far I have done the following
new fuel filters
clean MAF
new PCV valve
new spark plugs
check all hoses and plugs etc
injector clean
checked techstream for codes. there is one for a heated O2 sensor but dont think thats it.
2002. SC430
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
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I've mentioned in earlier posts that my speedometer has been swinging around wildly off and on, and that on two occasions this has been coupled with a momentary engine stumble. This morning on the way to work it was doing it again but this time the engine stumble happened several times as well. I plan to check the speed sensor, but I wonder how this is also causing the engine stumble?
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A bit about my truck : 2001 F250 CC SB 4x4 175k miles
Wicked wheel, 6637 filter, DP tuner, Summit 5" exhaust, pressure regulator somewhere in the boost circuit to fool the computer a bit....
Every few times I drive the truck it will stumble and maybe even stall. The issue feels something like a CPS problem, although I've swapped out a few CPS to see if I by chance had a bad one in the engine as well as a bad one in the glove box. No changes. I was driving home from work one afternoon and it was running particularly bad. I stopped off at a local garage (who doesn't work on diesels and was reluctant to plug in....but did because he's a nice guy).
He plugged in with his snap-on tool and came up with P0603 and P1211. The P0603 seems to be nearly inevitable with a tuner. Check P1211 sounds like it could be an issue with a number of things, but I tried to attack the free and cheap issues first. I dropped my tank and had a look inside. I was hoping to find a squirrel wrapped around the sending unit, but there was a disappointingly small amount of crud. I cleaned it up and put it back in, then changed my fuel filter. No improvements.
So I decided to get with the program and buy AutoEnginuity. Got it. Even did some reading in class and did the initial homework assignment on page 2 or 3. Seems like the best thing to do it hook up, set up some parameters to monitor, and drive around recording until the problem happens. But.........what parameters do I want to monitor? I don't want to overtax the OBDII bus with too many requests such that my data looks like crap.
A few other things............ In the last year I swapped out the valve-cover gaskets & harnesses with an all-in-one molded setup. About a month back I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube.
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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I have a 2003 F 350 Crewcab 6.0 liter SD. I was preparing my truck for the first haul of the Summer. I noticed that my batteries were on their way out after 2 years old. I replaced them and noticed I had an intermittent battery light coming on/off on/off. It seemed like only at lower RPMs. So the day of my trip, I ended up changing out the alternator.
The trip went fine, however, I noticed that pesky battery light came on and then off a few times. I also got a hot plastic type smell from the front of my truck.....you know that hot plastic smell Anyway, I got home just fine. Via Torque Pro, my battery volts were reading 12.2ish when my battery light came on, but then would quickly return to 13.9.
Since I"ve been home, I have read about fixing the grounding points for our trucks and also adding a second ground wire and a second hot wire from battery to battery. I can not find exactly where the ground's lead to. I still have that fricking battery light coming on .....more often that not. How to chase this problem.
First I need to find out where the ground wires go to. My volts of recent have been reading 11.5-12ish when the truck is running and the friggin battery light is on. I did search and found a few links to this problem, but where to find the grounding points.
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Been having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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