I have a 2004 f250 6.0 factory as can be I haven't did anything to it mechanical wise but lately while driving the truck bogs down while I am driving. If I give it a little gas or get off the gas it will clear up or sometimes while I am driving if it doesn't bog down, and I am trying to accelerate the truck will start to turbo bark.
View 11 RepliesWhile driving uphill yesterday, my truck 6.0 f250 completely died. Added oil cause it's been a while and tried starter fluid. Cranks but won't start. Pulled OBD codes p0300, p0304, p0401, p0460, p0562, p0606, and p2290. Checked IPR, works fine. Checked fuses. Low voltage codes are most likely from battery dying during the test.
View 2 RepliesI am working on an 2003 F-250 6.0l. The truck just died while driving. No restart. Plugged in my scan tool and I am not getting any High pressure oil. Is there anything other than the Hpop I should be looking at. I know it is a big job to replace the hpop so I don't want to overlook something simple.
View 14 RepliesWhile driving my truck to work this morning, it completely died at 65mph. The radio and all electronics are still working. Coasted to a safe place to try and restart, but it won't turn over. The glow plug light stays on. Could this be an alternator problem or something more serious? I'm waiting for a tow truck. I'll see if there are any codes when I get it home.
View 14 RepliesBeen chasing my tail and can't figure out an electrical issue. My issue is that I'll drive for about 20-30 min and the truck will shut off while driving. I'll pull off the road, let it sit for 10-20 min (cool down) and It will fire back up and go for another 15 min or so. Sometimes it will glitch/wig out when i try to start or not start....
I've replaced the following and monitored everything on a scanner.
-cam sensor
-crank sensor
-2 new batteries
-flashed the ecu
05' F250 6.0 King Ranch 4X4
2007 f250 6.0 .... I just had the wrench light come on while driving on the hwy. wasn't towing, or hauling anything. Just traveling around 70mph for an hour or so. I didn't notice any change in power. Got to my destination and cut the engine off. Couldn't pull any codes with an OBD II scanner. When I started it up again, light was gone. Owner's manual points to electronic throttle control, not much else.
View 14 RepliesWhen I'm driving sometimes it will pour black smoke and make no boost, and then the next time I get on the throttle it goes make to making boost like normal. It has the following thing done in the last 50k. I have a 2006 f-250 lariat FX4 it has the following mods:
EGR delete,
Powermax Turbo,
Rudy's Diesel Up Pipe,
4" Turbo Back Muffler Delete,
New For Injectors,
Blue Spring mod,
Gear Head Tune,
S&B Elbow And S&B Cold air kit
I have a 2006 F250 with an International 6.0 turbo diesel. Last Friday I was driving 70mph up hill when my truck slowed down (I wasn't hauling anything) and then stalled, I got it restarted my doing a moving restart. After that it stayed in limp mode and wouldn't go up into 4th gear it just would jump from 1st to 2nd them to 3rd if I was coasting and it would only let me go 40mph at the most, so I got a tester and tested it and the only code it gave me was glow plug 1 & 5 were misfiring so I replaced those.
After I decided to do a test drive I went 800 meters and my tuck still didn't go out of gear one and I couldn't get my truck to go more than 5mph, then it stalled, so after about 30 minutes and 2 other guys tinkering with everything, we got her started and she sounded perfect, so I took off again, same thing happened except I got her going 20 mph but her RPMS stayed under 2,000 and then it decided to sputter and then stalled.
When I went to restart her the ABS, TBC and the transmission light went off, now she won't crank over and she was clicking (starter or dead battery) and now the lights don't go off, the Windows don't work and their is no electricity flowing...... I understand the electricity, she has 2 batteries. (The first one starts i.e. Glow plugs, starter etc, the other just supplies juice to the system, I.E. Lights, fuel pump.. Etc) what is causing this?
I have a 2004 F250. Owned it for a little less than 4 miles (186k on the odometer) .. The other day making a routine run and the radio goes out. Stopped to check it out and found I had no power windows either.
Made it home, checked the fuse on the radio and its good and the the power window fuse is also good. Put a meter on the terminals and have no voltage going to them. What I need to look at???
I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and am having a serious issue. The truck has about 240,000 miles and has been great until now. About a week ago the truck was running great and had plenty of power. I decided to wash it with my pressure washer (did not spray under the hood, however I did spray in the front wheel wells and underneath the truck). About 5 minutes after washing the truck, I took it out for a drive and noticed when I really got on the accelerator the truck would not want to try harder and motor got very quiet. Really all you could hear was the turbo whistling. Over this past week the problem has gradually gotten worse... a few days ago I had to feather the pedal in order to go up hills. If I gave it more than about 1/4 inch of accelerator, the motor once again would get quiet and the truck would start to slow down and would not want to work.
However, if I let up and only gave it a small amount of accelerator, the motor would sound normal again and it would pull up the hill. Today, I can do nothing more than idle back and forth in the driveway because the motor gets quiet and the turbo winds up if you give it even the slightest amount of accelerator. I have no idea if it's a coincidence that this happened after washing the truck, or if maybe there was a sensor that was rotted and about to die and I finished the job with the pressure washer. I already replaced the egr valve and have been running tons of Howes diesel conditioner and anti gel through it. The injectors were replaced about 50,000 miles ago so I'd hate to think it was them. The truck doesn't smoke at all either.
First off my vents stopped blowing completely. At this time the thermostat was still functioning. Fuse 28 was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again shortly after turning the heater on. I replaced the relay and resistor and still blowing fuses. For some reason I tried a 30A fuse and it didn't blow but a few minutes after turning on the heater there was a burning smell. I immediately turned it off and pulled the fuse back out, which was hot. I then replaced the blower motor and at this point there is no power at all to the control panel. The fuses are all fine as well as the relay and resistor. There's power to the fuses. So it seems like somewhere between the fuse box and the control panel I'm losing power.
View 7 RepliesWhile driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
View 5 Repliesthis morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
I have an 04 6.0. My truck was running perfect, no problems. I start my truck, it started idealing rough for a couple seconds then just died. After that it just kept cranking and no start. There are no codes, tried unplugging the ICP sensor and nothing. Checked the fuel filter and its filling up with fuel before cranking. Oil is at a good level. FICM is reading 46.5-47.5 before cranking. Checked the ICP Psi I'm only building 11psi and HPOP was replaced in October.
View 13 RepliesMy husband and I purchased a 2004 f250 king ranch 6.0L... We love the truck, despite the headaches. We took it to a dealership and spent just under $5k in parts, drove it for a month (everything going great) until we shut it off to bs w a friend and it won't turn back on. It's been sitting for 4 days and nothing. Cranks and cranks, but won't actually start. We are pretty handy with gas trucks, but this diesel is out of our element- we are getting better though haha!
We looked on here and saw that the no start could be bc of the FICM - swapped it out- not the issue.
Now the codes being thrown are P2291 & P2285 (or so my husband says)
We are thinking if we replace the ICP and that fixes it, we won't need to do the HPOP. Or do we need to do it as well? Are we on the right track?
When we shut it off, it didn't have any lights on, no gauge fluctuations, or any "red flags". This is why we are stumped!!
(Ford dealership fixes: 2 batteries, new starter, new tank cap, new oil cooler, maybe a few others- receipts not infront of me).
Like I mentioned, we've already dropped more money than we have into this truck and now it's taking more- we love the truck and once it's fixed we will "have a new truck" it just sucks bc my husband works afternoons and I'm a stay at home mom with a 14mo and this is our only vehicle.
I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 RepliesI'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.