Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 Stall After Start When Backing Out Of The Driveway
Aug 23, 2017
I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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Our temps have hit into the -18 to -25 Celsius... I have noticed that on 3 different occasions now that the truck feels like its locked in 4wd when I reverse out of my drive way.My Truck is an F250 Crewcab with 4800 miles
This all started with the cold weather. At first I thought my 2 yr old was turning switches on while he was up front one time, but it happended again the following morning taking my 5yr old to school...
I back up up about 20 feet and then make a fairly sharp 90 degree turn and then all the way down the driveway to the street...its really noticeably on the 90 degree turn..once I turn to go forward it still seems jerky...same as having 4wd engaged on dry surface while turning..
After a little bit of driving it seems to go away...also keep in my mind that the 4wd switch has never been touched at anytime at all...we have a lightly snow packed driveway but my traction is still fine to where 2 wd is all that's needed
Could it be something in the rear diff "catching and releasing" for lack of a better term ?
Locker issues, clutchpacks...?
As I am typing I also remembered making a right hand turn on dry pavement and it felt like the rear end slipped a bit and then caught again, much the same way it would fell as if you hat one tire on a small patch of ice and slipped as ya took off and then caught as it hit the dry pavement...
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 4x4 CCLB. About 90k on the odometer.
Full flopro exhaust(no cat, no dpf) and a H&S tow tune. Otherwise stock.
8" lift and 37" toyo mt tires.
Anyways, I ran the truck in my first truck pull ever a few weeks ago. I pulled in 4wd high, rear locked, tow/haul mode, traction control off 2nd gear.
I wasn't able to pay super close attention to all of the stock gauges, but it didn't over heat and it didn't rev over 3000rpm. It was pulling like a freight train until the 125' mark and it just shut off. I thought something may have broken.... I put it in neutral, cycled the key and it started right back up....
Checked for anything obviously wrong, no fluids, all boots looked attached and fine. Nothing. Drive it home and haven't had a problem since. No CEL, no warning no anything. So why the truck may have stalled on me?
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I have an 04 6.0. My truck was running perfect, no problems. I start my truck, it started idealing rough for a couple seconds then just died. After that it just kept cranking and no start. There are no codes, tried unplugging the ICP sensor and nothing. Checked the fuel filter and its filling up with fuel before cranking. Oil is at a good level. FICM is reading 46.5-47.5 before cranking. Checked the ICP Psi I'm only building 11psi and HPOP was replaced in October.
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My husband and I purchased a 2004 f250 king ranch 6.0L... We love the truck, despite the headaches. We took it to a dealership and spent just under $5k in parts, drove it for a month (everything going great) until we shut it off to bs w a friend and it won't turn back on. It's been sitting for 4 days and nothing. Cranks and cranks, but won't actually start. We are pretty handy with gas trucks, but this diesel is out of our element- we are getting better though haha!
We looked on here and saw that the no start could be bc of the FICM - swapped it out- not the issue.
Now the codes being thrown are P2291 & P2285 (or so my husband says)
We are thinking if we replace the ICP and that fixes it, we won't need to do the HPOP. Or do we need to do it as well? Are we on the right track?
When we shut it off, it didn't have any lights on, no gauge fluctuations, or any "red flags". This is why we are stumped!!
(Ford dealership fixes: 2 batteries, new starter, new tank cap, new oil cooler, maybe a few others- receipts not infront of me).
Like I mentioned, we've already dropped more money than we have into this truck and now it's taking more- we love the truck and once it's fixed we will "have a new truck" it just sucks bc my husband works afternoons and I'm a stay at home mom with a 14mo and this is our only vehicle.
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I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.
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The truck is a 2004 f250. Build date is 7/ 03 so its an early 04. I have been in a parking lot for 3 days now with no money trying to get this truck to start. Me and my dad replaced the ipr pigtail and the ipr thinking this might have been the problem, because the ipr pigtail had a damaged connector.
Before doing this work the icp sensor connector had no oil in it, now after replacing the ipr and cranking the engine the icp has some oil in the connector, could this cause a short and not let the truck start, and if so will unplugging the icp allow the truck to start?
We were having trouble with no starts before this happened and when it did all we had to was push the ground wire back further that goes back to the ficm and the truck would start, but that is not working anymore.
Is it possible the ipr is not seated properly or the new ipr is bad out of the box? Or maybe the made in tawain pigtail connector to the ipr is bad?
We are thinking it may be a short somewhere in the harness since everytime we pushed the ground to the ficm up further to where it grounds before when we had no start problems this might have took the short out of the ipr or icp pigtails and allowing the truck to start. Injectors are buzzing when key is turned and I can hear the fuel pump.
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this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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Its a 2003 f-350 6.0 started out just stalling out throw it in N it would fire right back up then started to sputter now I have a no start doesn't even try to start no smoke on crank. all of this between -3 and 5 degrees outside. According to my scan gauge ipr is 14.8, have ficm sync, ficm main is between 47 and 48 cranking, builds 0 icp irp duty cycle doesn't go up either. Pretty sure my icp is bad leaks oil though the sensor and pig tail is covered in oil. Truck has 197000 miles hpop, injectors, and ficm changed around 165000 oil cooler and blue spring at 1800000...
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I have been having trouble w my 04 I checked all fuses all relays all dash lights work, no buzzing on injectors when key turned on. I checked push pull plug for starter it turns over with direct to battery but still does not start. New computer on fender.
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I have a 2004 F-250 changed out both fuel filters and now can't get it to run. It will start up and run for about a minute then stall out. I have cycled the key/pump numerous times with no luck. When I look into the fuel bowl when I engage the pump it looks like it's pushing more air rather than fuel. It seems to be burning the fuel in the bowl and then stalling out. When I take the bowl cap off after it stalls it's empty.
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So I recently bought a '04 F-250 early build with the 6.0 powerstroke. Truck drove fine for the first 1000 miles. Drove from Fort Hood back home for leave. Got home and truck sat for two days, started it up and it ran for 15 minutes, then shut off on me. Temp gauge read normal, but after it shut off, I turned the key off and back on and temp gauge was maxed out. And truck has to cool down before it will start again. Replaced the IPR Sensor to no luck. Not sure if I have an ICP sensor issue or what it could be.
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Ok a little background on this truck. it is a 04 F350 6.0. Early build, with the ipr under the turbo an the earlier hpop. A few years ago the oil cooler blew on me and I got it rebuilt with a full bullet proof diesel kit and high flow egr cooler. Last year my turbo went out and I had it rebuilt and added a 5" MBRP turbo back exhaust. there have been multiple other parts updated and replaced but those are the major ones.
A few weeks ago I began loosing my oil pressure at idle. It was hard starting as well. I though that was from the cold winter here but it apparently wasn't. Before I had a chance to check the truck out, it lost all power on my way to work and staled out on me.
I just finished tearing into the high pressure oil pump. Found the ball plug was gone from the side. Tapped and plugged it. When I started it up it seemed to be idling fine. After it warmed up a bit i gave it some throttle and it would not go over 1000 rpm and spit out black smoke. Once the engine temp came up the idle speed dropped to around 300 rpm and eventually stalled. My oil pressure never dropped and the check engine light never came on. With the engine up to temp it will turn over and fire but as soon as I let go of the key it dies.
I do not currently have anything to get readings other than whats on the cluster. Do i have any options that wont cost me a ton to get my readings?
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I'm new to owning a diesel. I have a. 2004 f250 6.0. I gotta smog the truck this weekend but the check engine light is on. Fault is P0674. I've notice during the day it starts up fine but at nights, lately it's been low 40 outside it won't start. Where to start at.
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While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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AE shows 600+ ICP while cranking, 48.5v-49v ficm continuously, has sync, has 50 psi fuel with manual gauge, replaced fuel filters with Ford, fresh oil change, 2 new batteries, cleaned EGR, no codes.
Prior to this I changed the driver's side injectors because (before I had AE) Ford said it needed #8 (power balance) due to a stutter at minimal load at highway speed. Figured I'd change them all due to 290,000 miles. Had enough cash for 1 side this month. Ran great! Had AE hooked up and showed all good pressure, volts, temps then died in the driveway.
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