Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 - Instrument Cluster Right Side Is Not Working?
Jan 9, 2016
My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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I have a 2013 F250 with 49.575 miles and Saturday the truck left me stranded. I was towing my small trailer and doing about 45 mph.....When just out of nowhere .....I got every possible warning come across my display and none of my instruments were working. That included speedo,tach,boost....even the radio and ac were effected in some way. So after a few miles I was able to pull over ....cut the truck off and it wouldn't start.... So I had Ford roadside service tow it to my home dealership.
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My 06 instrument cluster has a few bulbs that are out. I have seen the video on how to remove and send off to be repaired but have not seen any thing on how to replace bulbs. Is this something that I can do myself? Is there "kit" to replace all the bulbs? Where can I get the bulbs? Here is a pic of my panel.....
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Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
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I've been searching for instructions/procedure on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2006 6.0 Superduty. My odometer has been showing the classic signs of a cold solder joint, cutting in and out constantly. It's been doing this for a couple of years, and I've taken it to the dealership, since it's still under warranty, however they were not able to find the problem since they were not able to witness the lighting go off and on. I figured I'd just do it myself and not even bother with the dealership if I don't have to. I've read the threads on how to fix the issue, however, everything I've found is for 2004 or older models. Are there any threads specific to the 2006? Or, is the instrument cluster on the 2006 the same as another year model? Maybe I can find this info. there.
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Got in my 06 F350 dually 2 weeks ago and after start up had no instrument indications. Truck ran great, flat line on panel. Tow haul light out also. Drove it for appx 5 miles, shazam all start working and then they cycled on and off for a while. After 10 miles, came on solid. Happened again at a later date.
Here's what I discovered. I noticed high voltage on my Scangage II. As in 16.2VDC. Monitored it coming back from a hunt. 14.9-15.5VDC. Would blank out only after hitting 16.2VDC. I'm suspecting there might be a cutout to protect the instrument cluster from damage.
Installed a new alternator on Friday the 13th. Drove home this weekend, 4 hours and no problems. Hopefully didn't boil off the batteries. Now 13.5-13.9VDC ... Just something to be aware of!!
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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Do the gauge cluster out of one super Duty will work in another truck, just plug and play? I have a 2015 550 that the fuel gauge has quit, which is causing the truck to go into limp mode because it will not allow a regen on the DPF. This is a business truck and i need it to be rolling. There appears to be a national back order on gauge clusters from Ford. I have another truck in the fleet that I could do without so I was wondering if I could just swap the clusters would it work?
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Ok just bought a '04 F250 Diesel. Loving everything but can't get the keyless code to work. The keypad lights when I touch it and I have retrieved the 5 digit code from the "Bosch" box behind the radio. No deal. Locks don't react at all to the factoy code. Know what? I read that there is a list of all the possible codes. Where can I get that list?
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I have to change out the inner seals on my front axle on my 04 f250 6.0 4x4. was wondering what the torch spects are for the bolts on the end caps and the torch spects on the differential cover? I already have the passenger side axle out. was changing my ball joints on that side when I noticed a bunch of oil in the axle case and on the hub knuckle. Also, this might be a long shot but is there any way to change the inner seal on the drivers side without taking out the axle on that side? I have the passenger out and if I could get away without pulling the driver side that would be awesome.
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I was installing a brake controller and repair wiring at the seven pin today for a customer and noticed when I began work I have no power windows, power seats, or instrumentation on the dash. Truck otherwise runs fine.
Got wiring for the brake controller straightened out and thought I could get the other stuff working, but I went through all the fuses and could find nothing amiss. Several comments on the Internet about a power saver relay board built into the back of the instrument cluster. Does that fit these symptoms?
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2005 6.0L F250 Lariat. I picked up a couple weeks ago. The message center in the gauge cluster will only show my mileage (kilometres) and engine hours but nothing else.
Also the three buttons/controls to the right of the steering column don't do anything. I checked the wiring behind the dash and it's all plugged in... The other problem is the SRS light will flash on and off while driving.
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I have a 2004 F150 (New Body Style) with 5.4L 3v and about 266k miles. My Alternator finally bit the dust and my instrument cluster went from reading speed, temp level, odometer, RPMs to being blank and all needle gauges bottoming out on the "0" side. Removed Alternator and had it tested, found Alternator Failed tests. Ordered and Installed New aftermarket 110a Alternator. Battery was fully charged (13v) and passed load test out of the truck. After installation, started the truck with no problem, instrument cluster gauges all read normal when turning key to on position, after starting and let run, instruments and gauges blacked out and returned to "0". Battery was reading 13v and with truck running read about 17v. What could be causing this?
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The lights are on on the switches themselves, I used the red pass through wire under the hood and then connected it to the Orange w/ blue tracer upfitter wire( I think #4 switch) and it has no power. Changed the fuse and still nothing??
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I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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6.7L ... Just traded in my F250 on a 2011 F350 Lariat. Love it. Period. Except that my windshield wiper sprayers will not work. I don't hear anything when I hit the button. No click or motor running. I can't figure out what fuse it is because I don't have an owners manual.
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I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
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I've done it before but now when I try to enter into the diagnostic mode I'm not getting anything but the typical message center. I'm holding the down arrow button, inserting the key, and then starting the truck. No diagnostic mode. Am I doing something wrong? 2011 F250.
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I like the 05 - 07 F 250 Instrument Cluster better than our stock excursion's. It is just plug and play or is it much more complicated.
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I have 2002 F250 4x4 with 5.4 V8. It has auto locking hubs. If I haven't used the 4wd lately I have to manually lock the hubs in, right side sticks, so I have to use pliers to lock into place. After a few times it works in auto fine. Anyway my issue. I went to use my 4wd so I manually locked the hubs, hopped in the truck and flipped it into 4wd. When I did the instrument cluster died. Radio, power windows and locks, turn signals all work. I just don't have any speedo, tach, fuel gauge, water temp, battery, no odometer. All went blank. I checked some of the fuses that I thought it could be from the owners manual but still no luck.
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