Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 - Hot No Start - Temp Gauge Maxed Out
Oct 26, 2015
So I recently bought a '04 F-250 early build with the 6.0 powerstroke. Truck drove fine for the first 1000 miles. Drove from Fort Hood back home for leave. Got home and truck sat for two days, started it up and it ran for 15 minutes, then shut off on me. Temp gauge read normal, but after it shut off, I turned the key off and back on and temp gauge was maxed out. And truck has to cool down before it will start again. Replaced the IPR Sensor to no luck. Not sure if I have an ICP sensor issue or what it could be.
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Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
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For the second time in 6 weeks My 2004 F250 Powerstroke has run out of fuel with the gauge showing a 1/4 tank. First time it was just under a 1/4 showing I had it towed to dealer and they told me it had sucked in the filters requiring replace and flush of system. The told me that this happening very often and I would be replacing all of the injectors at my cost. I told them that I didn't want this to happen again and to check out the fuel gauge and sending unit and replace if in doubt. Well they checked it out and found nothing wrong, told me it was accurate and should not be an issue again. Now 6 weeks later on the Friday night before a holiday, it did it again, this time with over a 1/4 tank showing. I really don't want to spend 6 grand replacing injectors and would really like to trust my truck again, getting to the point that I'm nervous at 1/2 tank.
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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Just a quick question on my new 6.7l instantaneous fuel economy display (green bar). At idle, the bar is pegged at 40l/100km. When the vehicle is moving, the bar graph drops down to its proper 14ishL/100km mark.
At idle, the vehicle display should be under the 14L mark, because the engine is using little fuel. When the display is pegged, it also causes the number display on the graph (the instantaneous 14L/100 number) to creep up as well. In the span of 3 or 4 minutes at idle, the instantaneous average (calculated number) will creep from approx 14.5l/100 to 19l/100. So its pretty obvious the computer is using the 40l/100 number in its average.
Id almost swear that the display was working correct when the truck was new (2 wks ago), I've done nothing to change it, but for whatever reason its working backwards to what it should be doing (all my other vehicles' instantaneous display drop to almost 0 when at idle).
Its not the end of the world, and I can wait till its at the dealer next time to figure it out, but it is a bit of an annoyance. I am not in the middle of a regen or something like that either, AFAIK. Actual mileage on a tank of fuel isnt reflecting that 40L/100 figure on the display.
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I have an 04 6.0. My truck was running perfect, no problems. I start my truck, it started idealing rough for a couple seconds then just died. After that it just kept cranking and no start. There are no codes, tried unplugging the ICP sensor and nothing. Checked the fuel filter and its filling up with fuel before cranking. Oil is at a good level. FICM is reading 46.5-47.5 before cranking. Checked the ICP Psi I'm only building 11psi and HPOP was replaced in October.
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My husband and I purchased a 2004 f250 king ranch 6.0L... We love the truck, despite the headaches. We took it to a dealership and spent just under $5k in parts, drove it for a month (everything going great) until we shut it off to bs w a friend and it won't turn back on. It's been sitting for 4 days and nothing. Cranks and cranks, but won't actually start. We are pretty handy with gas trucks, but this diesel is out of our element- we are getting better though haha!
We looked on here and saw that the no start could be bc of the FICM - swapped it out- not the issue.
Now the codes being thrown are P2291 & P2285 (or so my husband says)
We are thinking if we replace the ICP and that fixes it, we won't need to do the HPOP. Or do we need to do it as well? Are we on the right track?
When we shut it off, it didn't have any lights on, no gauge fluctuations, or any "red flags". This is why we are stumped!!
(Ford dealership fixes: 2 batteries, new starter, new tank cap, new oil cooler, maybe a few others- receipts not infront of me).
Like I mentioned, we've already dropped more money than we have into this truck and now it's taking more- we love the truck and once it's fixed we will "have a new truck" it just sucks bc my husband works afternoons and I'm a stay at home mom with a 14mo and this is our only vehicle.
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
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Driving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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Okay so I just peaked 100k and (of course) my 6.0 has an issue. I was driving along when suddenly my Transmission Temp gauge dropped to nothing, the tow haul began flashing and my check engine light came on. My transmission hard shifted and wouldn't shift up from 3rd. I let the truck sit for a few days, no leaking was observed and no blown lines. I added 4qts of tranny fluid and went to take it for a spin. The truck did fine for about 20 minutes and the same issue occurred. I parked it and checked the dip stick and it was full. What could the issue be.
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.
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The truck is a 2004 f250. Build date is 7/ 03 so its an early 04. I have been in a parking lot for 3 days now with no money trying to get this truck to start. Me and my dad replaced the ipr pigtail and the ipr thinking this might have been the problem, because the ipr pigtail had a damaged connector.
Before doing this work the icp sensor connector had no oil in it, now after replacing the ipr and cranking the engine the icp has some oil in the connector, could this cause a short and not let the truck start, and if so will unplugging the icp allow the truck to start?
We were having trouble with no starts before this happened and when it did all we had to was push the ground wire back further that goes back to the ficm and the truck would start, but that is not working anymore.
Is it possible the ipr is not seated properly or the new ipr is bad out of the box? Or maybe the made in tawain pigtail connector to the ipr is bad?
We are thinking it may be a short somewhere in the harness since everytime we pushed the ground to the ficm up further to where it grounds before when we had no start problems this might have took the short out of the ipr or icp pigtails and allowing the truck to start. Injectors are buzzing when key is turned and I can hear the fuel pump.
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this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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I have been having trouble w my 04 I checked all fuses all relays all dash lights work, no buzzing on injectors when key turned on. I checked push pull plug for starter it turns over with direct to battery but still does not start. New computer on fender.
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I have a 2004 F-250 changed out both fuel filters and now can't get it to run. It will start up and run for about a minute then stall out. I have cycled the key/pump numerous times with no luck. When I look into the fuel bowl when I engage the pump it looks like it's pushing more air rather than fuel. It seems to be burning the fuel in the bowl and then stalling out. When I take the bowl cap off after it stalls it's empty.
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I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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