Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 E450 Won't Idle Without A Little Throttle
Aug 22, 2014
I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
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So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
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So recently my bus has been having issues shutting down on us. It started about 6 weeks ago. My band was on our way to a gig about 5 hours away from home. We got about 30 minutes outside of our destination and the bus just quit on us. After sitting for about 30 minutes, and switching some relays around, its fired back up and we made it to our destination. The ride back home the next day was pretty rough; it happened 3 more times...
We took it out again about 3 weeks ago for a trip about half the distance and the bus quit on us about 20 minutes into the journey. It took about an hour or so of sitting on the side of the highway before it started back up. Rather than try to risk making the trip, we turned around, dropped the bus off, and found alternative transportation...
I should probably add that the bus sat for about 3 or 4 months during the ridiculously harsh winter we had here this year, as we took the winter off from gigging. It was unplugged the entire time as it was stored in a parking lot across the street from my shop where I couldn't plug it in anywhere...
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I have an option to buy a e450 with a 6.0, 100k mi, with a utility body. I have the same thing but an 03 with a 7.3. this van has some known issues, biggest being it sat for a year and a half. it was parked due to excessive smoke out the exhaust. Ford shop diagnosed it as bad head gaskets, personally I am not believing it. There is no evidence of puking on the degas cap, and someone removed the band clamp from the down pipe and there is nothing but a little soot, so I don't really think a turbo seal either. The batteries were dead tonight so I am going to take a set of batteries down and see what happens. he is only asking 6000 as is. I am thinking probably egr cooler, egr valve or injector problem. If I buy it I am going to install a new oil cooler, blue spring, clean the turbo and delete the egr. Late 2004 engine btw.
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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I have a 2008 E450 with a 6.0 and 5w110 trans. It started to leak at the bell housing. I figured it might be the front tc seal so I dropped the trans and replaced the seal. Reinstalled trans but its still leaking from the junction of engine and trans and from where the starter goes into the trans.
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I have a strange issue and it happens very sporadic. Sometime it occurs at startup, sometimes while driving. Not sure whether it is limp mode, but I have no throttle. It starts fine, idles, but no throttle. Like I said, sometimes it happens while driving and I have to pull over and shut it down and restart. Mods are few, it has an airaid air filter and I had the turbo rebuilt and egr delete both completed in May. FICM was rebuilt by ficmrepair.com a couple years ago. It does seem to happen more often when it is raining or with a heavy dew after sitting for many hours. 128k.
I adjusted the pedals all the way out and back in and it stopped for almost 5 weeks, but it has been pretty dry here in SW Ohio. then it got really foggy one day and rained the next and it has started again. Could it be that the EGR pigtail is getting moisture. It does not throw a CEL and my scan gauge II shows no codes. I did run a dose of hotshot's secret thru the fuel back in may, ran a couple tanks of fuel, then changed the filters with OEM. I have had this truck for almost 3 years, but still a newbie when it comes to diesels.
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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I recently bought a 2004 6.0 extended cab truck. It has 223,000 miles on it and has been running great. Bought it here in Arkansas where I live and recently drove it to Texas and back after having just put some Hot Shot oil treatment cleaner in it. I ran it the 1000 miles as it suggests. Just the other day as it was hitting the 1000 mile mark the truck started to lunge/runaway and stalled. I finally got it back home and started looking into the issue. Based on what it was doing, (lunging/running away, and at idle in park random burst of rpms and then dying after doing it a few times), I started to do some research. Most of the answers I found claimed it was the IPR valve. I found that the IPR valve is supposed to, as claimed by some, be pulled and inspected every 100,000 miles are so and if need be replaced or the rebuild kit gotten for it. So I decided to just replace it as well as the oil, oil filter and fuel filters.
When replacing the IPR valve I noticed that it was original and that its screen was missing. I didn't have any problem moving the little piston in the center of the shaft with a small bolt however that doesn't really mean that it isn't bad. I tried a magnet to see if the screen was still in there and nothing came out. I did not try using a camera as I do not currently have one, to look inside the port to see if I saw it. After replacing the IPR valve with a brand new one and changing the oil I started the truck. It seemed to be running a little ruff so I let it warm up. Not one minute later the exact same thing started happening, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), so I called it a night. The next morning I decided to change the fuel filters. No that it matters the order in which I did it, but I changed the top end filter first and the the one on the frame with the dealer recommended OEM filters as was the case with the oil. I did find in the filter on the frame that there was a small amount of sand and clay soil looking matter in the filter. I did clean out the filter housing as well.
After replacing the filters I started the truck to warm it up. I noticed that it was still running a little ruff but no random, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However after five minutes it started coming back. I finished letting the truck warm up and took it for a drive. Got it up to between 7-80mph for about 15 miles to try and see if I could "blow out" whatever may be in the fuel if that was even an issue I do not know. The truck seemed to get more power and run a little more smoothly so I stopped at my buddies house not to far from where I was and let it idle. No issues other than a little ruff idle. After about 10min I took off towards home doing similar speeds. I noticed at a little over 2000rpms that the truck was shaking a little but so I dropped the speed down. When I got home not more than one min after idling the same issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms), started happening again.
At this point I took back to the interwebs and came across a post that said the ICP might be bad and does cause this issue, lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). However I also noticed that this is a huge debate as to whether or not the ICP can cause this. Ford master mechanics say no and other mechanics say yes and round and round it goes. I decided to do the simple test many recommended which was to simply unplug the ICP and see if anything changes. Things did change. No more lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms). Not more than two minutes after plugging it back in, allowing the computer to account for it now, the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) came back. In the middle of it doing this I unplugged it and that went away. So needless to say I replaced the ICP and voila the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) is gone but the ruff idle is still there along with a slight loss of power.
To answer some questions:
1. The oil and water are not mixing so I am almost positive that the heads are fine
2. The intercooler couplings are leaking a bit. I have ordered the new ones and will replace them as soon as they come in. Can this cause the issue?
3. I am blowing no white or black smoke except for when the lunging/running away (random increase and decrease in rpms) issue was present and the truck almost died. It would knock occasionally when it almost died and would send a slight puff of black smoke which I assume is a low or high fuel issue from the truck trying to die
4. I have not had the no start issue at all
5. I did not see any debris in the oil during the oil change
6. I didn't do the air test on the ICP port as I do not have the adapter.
7. The only code I got on the IBD II port was when I unplugged the ICP which was to be expected
8. I found no damaged wires
I am at the point where I am wanting to take it to ford to have them run a diagnostic on it but am wondering if there is anything else I need to be looking for. Here are a few questions I have.
1. Does this sound like a bad injector? (When I bought the truck it would sound like a misfire or ruff idle condition was present for about 5-15 seconds and then it would smooth out with no issues. It would run a little ruff if you tried to take off without letting it warm up, which I did once or twice and low rpms, but when it warmed up no issues were present).
2. Could this be the HPOP?
3. Could this be the FCIM? (The previous owner had replaced the FCIM not to long ago with one from Ford I believe. Said it cost him something like $700)
4. Could this be something clogging the oil screen under the manifold?
My final question right now is do any of you know where or what brand OBD II reader or software I can get for a decent price that will tell me the voltage of each injector and FCIM is without me having to go to Ford to get it looked at.
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I have a 2004 Excursion Limited with a 6.0 PSD. Recently I have noticed my temp, I have a Scan Gauge II, slowly climbing when I am idling. On the highway it runs anywhere from 175-205 depending on time of year and load I'm pulling. Lately I have noticed it starting to climb while sitting in a parking lot at idle after coming off a steady speed run. Temp goes from about 175 up to about 205 just at idle. It is a slow creep up not a dramatic change. I have checked my coolant levels and it is full. I have made sure the front of the radiator is clear.
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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Ok a little background on this truck. it is a 04 F350 6.0. Early build, with the ipr under the turbo an the earlier hpop. A few years ago the oil cooler blew on me and I got it rebuilt with a full bullet proof diesel kit and high flow egr cooler. Last year my turbo went out and I had it rebuilt and added a 5" MBRP turbo back exhaust. there have been multiple other parts updated and replaced but those are the major ones.
A few weeks ago I began loosing my oil pressure at idle. It was hard starting as well. I though that was from the cold winter here but it apparently wasn't. Before I had a chance to check the truck out, it lost all power on my way to work and staled out on me.
I just finished tearing into the high pressure oil pump. Found the ball plug was gone from the side. Tapped and plugged it. When I started it up it seemed to be idling fine. After it warmed up a bit i gave it some throttle and it would not go over 1000 rpm and spit out black smoke. Once the engine temp came up the idle speed dropped to around 300 rpm and eventually stalled. My oil pressure never dropped and the check engine light never came on. With the engine up to temp it will turn over and fire but as soon as I let go of the key it dies.
I do not currently have anything to get readings other than whats on the cluster. Do i have any options that wont cost me a ton to get my readings?
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I have an 04 F-250 6.0l Power stroke diesel with a problem. The engine starts fine and runs normally until it gets warmed up. Once it is at the normal operating temperature it starts to sound like it is misfiring when idle. Once I accelerate it sounds normal again but when I slow to idle the misfire comes back.
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I have a 2004 f250 i purchased a month ago. Its been cold in Denver this last month which is why I didn't mind it much. But now that its been in the 70s im concerned. Its always the first start up that it acts up. I go to turn the truck on and it starts idling for only a sec or two, then shuts off. I crank it about 3-4 times before it actually comes on and stays on. There is black smoke not white smoke once it starts to idle. Once idling it stays on and drives the way it should. If i try to start the truck again it will do so with out hesitation. I just did a tune up at grease monkey including fuel filters and oil filter. again its the first start up always.
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I have a 04 6.0l and all of a sudden it started dumping white/grey smoke at idle and when I drive it it goes to black then let off throttle and back to grey/white I had an up pipe leak at the y pipe I thought it might be an issue with that but I just got done fixing it and the problem still there so iam guessing it's either a sticky injector or the ficm but it starts up nice and does not knock around egr delete is don with all the goodies arp studs ect also the injectors have only 30k so it's hard to believe but iam just stumped haven't tested ficm yet and my tuner doesn't pick up any codes
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
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So last night I got on it a couple times coming home from dinner (just a couple WOT from 25-60) and this morning when cranking it up I noticed the engine developed a rough idle. Also, the typical whistle I hear that kicks in a few seconds after startup is not as pronounced as it was.
With my scangauge hooked up I checked out the ICV values (which appear to be good .25 before startup .84 at idle) ICP (22% at idle 48% at 3-4k rpms) and FICM Voltage (47.5v consistently).
The truck is a 2004 6.0L Excursion (255k miles, w/ headstuds, EGR delete, 4" exhaust, blue spring mod installed yesterday) with a rev-x in the oil and ford cetane booster at each fill-up. One of the issues that I'm currently battling though is that the last owner bought the truck with all mods already done, so he wasn't knowledgeable as to what is done. There's definitely a tune on the truck as well (seen boost upwards of 38lb), but no tuner with the truck (something I also have to address).
Here's a video of startup : [URL] ....
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2004 f250 6.0, 173k miles. I just had the head studs done and a new head due to a crack in one head, I got it back 3 days ago and she was running great. I towed my landscape trailer yesterday full of mulch and only went about 5 miles with the load, after the job driving to another one I noticed it sounded like it was missing at idle with a small amount of white smoke. Drove it home let it sit overnight, started it up this morning and a cloud of white/ blue smoke and a horrible rough idle. Smoke does not stop.
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