Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Crank Up Then Die With No Codes?
May 14, 2017
ok i have a 2004 6.0 that has been a pain for the last 3 months so much so that i have replaced all the injectors,fuel pump ,water pump ,ficm, batterys , now 4 days ago i was driving and the truck stumbled for a second but i brushed it off as maybe I still had air in the fuel and the truck drove as it should .. now fast forward 2 days and whil driving it just died so I put the shifter in nutral and it fired right up in 2 seconds then it runs as it should for about 10 minuets then it died again and fired right up .. while i was turning around it died 3 more times but would crank and run then just 3 miles from home it died and would not crank . when I got the truck home I hooked up my computer and had a cam position sensor code so it sat for about 3 hours and as luck would have it it fired back up and run fine i once again checked it and the same code was there now its today and I once again fired up the truck and i checked every wire for chafing and I could not find any i even checked it while running and nothing so I drove all over the yard and the truck run great until it reached a temp of 191 at which time it shuttered and died I could crank iit back up then it would die again but now I have no codes and my icp and irp seem fine here is a screen shot while the truck is running.
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I've got a 2004 6.0 4x4 broke down in Gillette WY that will crank but won't start. We've had a cert. Ford mechanic bring out the computer first time it showed the IPR valve so that was replaced. Now it's not throwing any codes. We had it running for about 2 hours a week ago but the next morning it wouldn't start again. We're at a loss of what else to check. Here's what we've checked & replaced so far:
2 new batteries
New ICP Sensor
New IPR Valve
New #6 Injector
New Cam Sensor
Checked all fuses and relays
Oil is good
Coolant is good.
High pressure fuel test checked ficm 48 volts as it should be.
It's not the hpop because oil pressure stays up when cranking for fifteen seconds.
Cleaned secondary filter housing.
All filters are good.
Checked fuel pump it's good. ....
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It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
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I just got a new 2006 E-350 van about 4 months a go (my previous 2004 got scraped - found out the fuel line leaving the secondary filter into the engine with clogged with bits of paper (wtf?)... after I decided salvaged it for parts for my new van...).
New van drives beautifully in the last 4 months without problem, but shut down on me on the highway yesterday. No strange noise or anything when it went out. I managed to coast safely to the side of the highway. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to start the truck again and had it towed home. It cranks, but doesn't start.
I have a scan gauge ii this time and it shows the following:
KOEO:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP 0
IPR 14.8%
Sync 0
Cranking:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP ~8PSI
IPR 84.7%
Sync 1
I still have a P0299 and P2262 check engine code from 2 days previous to the above, but this doesn't seem to be related to the no-start conditioning (both turbo related)
So, pretty much, I'm looking at a very low ICP. Some research indicates this is is due to a bad HPOP, bad STC fitting, or a massive leak. Given the really low ICP, can I rule out the STC fitting and leak? Looks like only the LPOP is providing pressure. Is there anyway to tell if the HPOP is dead or not once I remove it?
Anything I should shot-gun replace first? I have a bunch of salvaged parts from my old van in my garage, which doesn't include the HPOP unfortunately.
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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I have a 2011 F450 with a 6.7. It has 99K. The whole fuel system was replaced about 10K miles back. I installed a dieselsite aux fuel filter/water separator after that. Has been running like a top till this am on the way to work. Right before I get to my biz the reduced power warning came on, fortunately I made it into the parking lot at my biz. Then the engine died and it would not restart. Hooked it up to auto ingenuity and I got the P0087 code. I changed the diesel site fuel filters and the stock primary and secondary fuel filters.
The diesel site had a little bit of sediment but no water whatsoever. The Ford filters were very clean and had no trace of sediment or water, but I replaced them anyways. I cleared the code and tried to restart the engine but it will not start. Checked for codes again and now has P0087, P2291 and P2539. The pump is kind of loud when trying to prime the system but there is pressure to secondary filter on engine. I do not have a gauge and adapter to check the pressure yet. I did pick up a replacement pump before the parts dept closed. Could the pump still be bad even tho I do have pressure at the secondary filter?
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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I have a 2004 f250 Super Duty crew cab. it was in a front end accident.I will able to drive it over 600 miles home and it ran for a few weeks until one day at the gas station I tried to start it and it backfired.ever since then it hasn't been able to fire up at all. It will not crank a full turn at all. I was told to start with pulling glow plugs and if there was oil on them, then either my crank shaft is siezed up or I need new head gaskets. I have rebuilt many gas motors over the years, but this will be my first diesel. My question is, at what point should i be looking to buy a new motor?
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2004 6.0 truck ran fine parked it, went out next morning and has been a crank no start. Brand new ficm put in today. Also scangauge readings while cranking.
IPR DUTY 30%
ICP -1000+
ICPV-.2 and rises
FICM-49.5 Never drop below 48
FICM LOGIC-11.5V And it also drops to 9 volts cranking
FICM SYNC-Yes
CAM/CRANK SYNC-Yes
I can here fuel pump running and have checked the bowl and fills in 3 second, also have held valve down in oil filter housing and it fills up in 4 seconds. Oil level perfect half tank fuel .. Also I get no smoke from tail pipe while trying to crank. Acts like it not firing or has no fuel... Driving me crazy been working on it for three weeks.
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Just installed lots of new parts on this late 04 6 liter HPOP, Stand pipes, nipple cup orings, head gaskets. and now she wont go. Just cranks. Doing an air test now, should I be able to hear anything form the oil fill tube? It builds oil pressure just not right away, I did have an icp code. but has gone away as of now (p2285). What's consider a long crank time?
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I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.
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About a month ago my truck was cutting out at one point it wouldn't even crank, got it going took it to the shop found my driver side battery clamp cracked, replaced it aswell as the egr valve because I had a p0401 code. Valve was pretty gummed up. Now recently it started doing it again. It cut out and it started right back up then later that night drove it two blocks and died, turn the key on and my glow plug light stayed on and wouldn't crank, was checking over all my connections and nothing seemed to be wrong. And then randomly it seemed like everything reset and my injectors would buzz, glow plugs cycled and fuel pump kicked on and started right up and drove home.
I replaced the pcm relay because one terminal looked to have gotten hot. Let her warm up in the driveway and she cut out twice but started right up. Checked over the connections again, replaced and cleaned both batteries, took it for a drive and no problems, later on started up again and let her warm up and cut out again, this time I got the p0401 code again. (Egr insufficient flow). I'm at a loss not sure where to keep going. It's an 04 f350 with egr delete, banks turbo and intake, with edge juice with attitude tuner on level 3 never switched levels around. And some other add on and mods that could make the list go on.
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I have an 04 ford 6.0. It is an 03 model. It has 165xxx miles. It fires right up cold but, once warmed up it will crank but not even try to start. A little starting fluid and it will fire right up. I sent the FICM in and had it tested and it is good. I put in new 850CCA batteries and a 185 amp alternator so my voltage is good. I changed the fuel filter and the oil/oil filter, synthetic 5w-30. It isn't throwing any codes. I am really hoping it's not the HPOP but, think it's probably that or related to it.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 powerstroke i recently fixed a oil leak in my remote oil cooler and after I was finished it ran fine and ran fine for a few days I noticed yesterday it had a bit of a rough start and some today but would start and run normal. Started the truck this morning and drove it a bit and then let it sit while I went to the dentist came back out and truck wouldn't start. I am getting 200-330 icp with the ipr cycle at 88.5 ficm sync is good and colts are at 12.5 unplugged icp sensor to see if it would start after that and it disnt start so I ruled that out.
I'm currently waiting on AAA to bring my truck home for me but trying to make sure I'm right to start working on it tomorrow. I am thinking the ipr valve is clogged. Am I right to think this may be the issue? When I first installed my remote oil cooler I had the same issue crank no start turned out to be the ipr valve was gunked up and I ended up replacing it 300 dollars later. Then it started and everything was fine. So basically am I right to start at the ipr valve or should I start somewhere else?
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I have working on this one for a while ( sick wife keeping out of garage for some time) Truck fires up in the morning when cold then refuses to start when warm. Of course HPOP leak. HPOP was replaced 5k miles ago. Now today when I drove with AE connected truck all of sudden started to run rough on the highway. I pulled DTC P0279 low circuit for injector 7. My question is can the leak be at injector 7 on the oil rail? Maybe cracked injector? Waiting for the motor to cool so I can do pop off valve cover . BTW early 04 .
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After installing a new oil cooler my 6.0 will not crank over and I have no injector noise or communication with my scanner , that is until I unplug the center connector to the PCM then injectors come on and engine cranks and pcm communicates with the scanner....
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2004 6.0 Truck has been slow to start and sometimes took a few tries to get it to fire up. On monday the Truck would not start. The FICM was not getting sync. I figured it could be a bad connection to the FICM. I pulled the FICM, cleaned the contacts and reconnected it. The truck fired up. It ran all day Tuesday without incident but wednesday morning it would again not start. Again what was missing was FICM sync. This time disconnecting and plugging back in the FICM did not fix the problem. I have spent the last two days troubleshooting and am out of things to try.
The problem as it stands right now
The truck will crank but not start. Scanner says it has oil pressure, a steady 48v (FICM has new power supply). The IPR sits around 50% when cranking at 1200psi. However, the FICM will not get sync. I have worked my way down and tested both the Cam and Crank sensors from the PCM. The Crank sensor has a resistance of 360 ohms and produces a AC voltage of 500mV when cranking. The camshaft sensor produces 100mV AC when cranking (camshaft sensor was replaced as the original produced AC voltage seemed low 20mV, new sensor produces 100mV). I have tested the camshaft sensor at the sensor and at the PCM connector. This has lead me to believe both the cam and crank sensors are ok and their signals are being probably transmitted to the PCM.
I have tried to check the inputs to the FICM to confirm the signals are getting there. I was unable to find a good pin out diagram for the 2004 FICM but what I found told me the crankshaft was pin 5 and the camshaft was pin 10. When cranking, pin 5 (crankshaft) did not produce a signal and pin 10 (camshaft) had a 200mV DC signal. Despite searching I have been unable to find what the input signals to the FICM should be.
Right now I suspect bad wiring between the PCM and the FICM, or a bad PCM. This is based on having good signals to the PCM, but (what I think may be) a lack of crankshaft pos. sensor signal to the FICM. I am specifically looking for what the crank/camshaft pos. sensor signal at the FICM should be, as well as confirmation/disconfirmation on the diagnosis of bad PCM or PCM-to-FICM wiring
Truck Details
Ford F350 King Ranch 2004 6.0
Truck build date 11/18/2003
350,000 km
Studded
New FICM power supply
Stock truck; don't run any tunes
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It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
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I have 04 6.0 with 247,000 on it. Just rebuilt all 8 injectors 3 months ago been running great since then. Jump into my truck yesterday morning go to turn the key over and all the lights on the dash came on for a second then they were off same with the fuel pump I only heard it for a second before turning off. The truck won't crank at all. My windows work, radio works and cab lights work. My headlights are out and my cab charm is not making any sound. I've check all my relays and fuses nothing bad there I've also replace my ignition switch and the ignition it self is good. I'm think it's a bad ground some where I just need finding the right one.
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