Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Crank But No Start - Injector
Mar 13, 2015
I have working on this one for a while ( sick wife keeping out of garage for some time) Truck fires up in the morning when cold then refuses to start when warm. Of course HPOP leak. HPOP was replaced 5k miles ago. Now today when I drove with AE connected truck all of sudden started to run rough on the highway. I pulled DTC P0279 low circuit for injector 7. My question is can the leak be at injector 7 on the oil rail? Maybe cracked injector? Waiting for the motor to cool so I can do pop off valve cover . BTW early 04 .
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My nephew has a 2004 F350 that will crank but will not start. It will build oil pressure on the gauge. There is no injector buzz and no communication through OBD2 port. Is the PCM dead?
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2006 6.0 king ranch 189k sct live wire Replaced 1357 injectors and when I crank truck it will crank and sputter for a brief second but will not fully start and continue cranking and doing this over and over. Tried starting for roughly 30 minutes would not budge. Tested icp and ficm both are good. Also replaced batteries, fuel filters, checked all relays and fuses still can't figure it out. Also truck is bulletproofed.
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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2004 6.0 truck ran fine parked it, went out next morning and has been a crank no start. Brand new ficm put in today. Also scangauge readings while cranking.
IPR DUTY 30%
ICP -1000+
ICPV-.2 and rises
FICM-49.5 Never drop below 48
FICM LOGIC-11.5V And it also drops to 9 volts cranking
FICM SYNC-Yes
CAM/CRANK SYNC-Yes
I can here fuel pump running and have checked the bowl and fills in 3 second, also have held valve down in oil filter housing and it fills up in 4 seconds. Oil level perfect half tank fuel .. Also I get no smoke from tail pipe while trying to crank. Acts like it not firing or has no fuel... Driving me crazy been working on it for three weeks.
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Just installed lots of new parts on this late 04 6 liter HPOP, Stand pipes, nipple cup orings, head gaskets. and now she wont go. Just cranks. Doing an air test now, should I be able to hear anything form the oil fill tube? It builds oil pressure just not right away, I did have an icp code. but has gone away as of now (p2285). What's consider a long crank time?
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I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 powerstroke i recently fixed a oil leak in my remote oil cooler and after I was finished it ran fine and ran fine for a few days I noticed yesterday it had a bit of a rough start and some today but would start and run normal. Started the truck this morning and drove it a bit and then let it sit while I went to the dentist came back out and truck wouldn't start. I am getting 200-330 icp with the ipr cycle at 88.5 ficm sync is good and colts are at 12.5 unplugged icp sensor to see if it would start after that and it disnt start so I ruled that out.
I'm currently waiting on AAA to bring my truck home for me but trying to make sure I'm right to start working on it tomorrow. I am thinking the ipr valve is clogged. Am I right to think this may be the issue? When I first installed my remote oil cooler I had the same issue crank no start turned out to be the ipr valve was gunked up and I ended up replacing it 300 dollars later. Then it started and everything was fine. So basically am I right to start at the ipr valve or should I start somewhere else?
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I've got a 2004 6.0 4x4 broke down in Gillette WY that will crank but won't start. We've had a cert. Ford mechanic bring out the computer first time it showed the IPR valve so that was replaced. Now it's not throwing any codes. We had it running for about 2 hours a week ago but the next morning it wouldn't start again. We're at a loss of what else to check. Here's what we've checked & replaced so far:
2 new batteries
New ICP Sensor
New IPR Valve
New #6 Injector
New Cam Sensor
Checked all fuses and relays
Oil is good
Coolant is good.
High pressure fuel test checked ficm 48 volts as it should be.
It's not the hpop because oil pressure stays up when cranking for fifteen seconds.
Cleaned secondary filter housing.
All filters are good.
Checked fuel pump it's good. ....
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2004 6.0 Truck has been slow to start and sometimes took a few tries to get it to fire up. On monday the Truck would not start. The FICM was not getting sync. I figured it could be a bad connection to the FICM. I pulled the FICM, cleaned the contacts and reconnected it. The truck fired up. It ran all day Tuesday without incident but wednesday morning it would again not start. Again what was missing was FICM sync. This time disconnecting and plugging back in the FICM did not fix the problem. I have spent the last two days troubleshooting and am out of things to try.
The problem as it stands right now
The truck will crank but not start. Scanner says it has oil pressure, a steady 48v (FICM has new power supply). The IPR sits around 50% when cranking at 1200psi. However, the FICM will not get sync. I have worked my way down and tested both the Cam and Crank sensors from the PCM. The Crank sensor has a resistance of 360 ohms and produces a AC voltage of 500mV when cranking. The camshaft sensor produces 100mV AC when cranking (camshaft sensor was replaced as the original produced AC voltage seemed low 20mV, new sensor produces 100mV). I have tested the camshaft sensor at the sensor and at the PCM connector. This has lead me to believe both the cam and crank sensors are ok and their signals are being probably transmitted to the PCM.
I have tried to check the inputs to the FICM to confirm the signals are getting there. I was unable to find a good pin out diagram for the 2004 FICM but what I found told me the crankshaft was pin 5 and the camshaft was pin 10. When cranking, pin 5 (crankshaft) did not produce a signal and pin 10 (camshaft) had a 200mV DC signal. Despite searching I have been unable to find what the input signals to the FICM should be.
Right now I suspect bad wiring between the PCM and the FICM, or a bad PCM. This is based on having good signals to the PCM, but (what I think may be) a lack of crankshaft pos. sensor signal to the FICM. I am specifically looking for what the crank/camshaft pos. sensor signal at the FICM should be, as well as confirmation/disconfirmation on the diagnosis of bad PCM or PCM-to-FICM wiring
Truck Details
Ford F350 King Ranch 2004 6.0
Truck build date 11/18/2003
350,000 km
Studded
New FICM power supply
Stock truck; don't run any tunes
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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2004 F350 4x4 6.0 ... No start... changed fuel pump... lots and lots of bubbles in fuel filter canister.... what to check now... running fuel from external fuel tank not tank on truck... after crank no start fuel disappears from canister.
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I went out to start my truck yesterday which is a 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel. It wouldn't crank over so of course I tried to jump start it and it fired right up. Went to town while I was there got 2 new batteries and put them in went to start truck and again nothing but will only start when jumped even with new batteries I'm guessing there is a grounding out issue. Where to start?
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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I have a 2004 F250 early build over 260K miles on it. After taking a trip out west Texas and back I noticed my truck starts to jerk a lot around the 50 to 60 mph range under moderate throttle. Getting a contribution code on #6. FICM voltage stays over 47v during KOEO and startup. Took an inferred thermometer and even after truck is at operating temp #6 is reading about 3 degrees cooler then the others.
When cranking the engine everything sounds smooth but startups are getting harder. Usually let it idle for a few minutes before taking off on cold start but I am having to let it warm up longer before I can get any power. Did a bubble test and passed and oil level hasnt changed. Fuel mileage has been sucking bad also. Safe to assume the injector is shot and needs replaced? Use Delo 5W-40 Syn every change with motorcraft filters.
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Will a 05 injector harness work on a early 04?
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I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
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2003 6.0 psd owned two years driven 2 months due to money thrown prior to forums and scangauge 2. Bought truck in chicago drove home. Oil in coolant. Did egr delete oil cooler all gaskets orings etc. New oil filters motorcraft fuel filters .new rad fluod wix trtmnt. Truck started right up. Still had same intermitantstudder as always when cold. Always exp those sysyems until hot then here and there until parked then hot no start or hard long start when hot. Knew something was wrong and waited for it to come to a head well it did in may.
I was driving coming up to a stop sign and truck died like i shut key off. Refired once off ether. Lasted 3 seconds died no restart period didnt even want to just crank crank crank.
ok towed truck i thought it was injector orings. Changed them still nothing . New icp. New cpm. Now have icp of 66 to 120psi cranking.ipr 14.40 koeo up to 84 when cranking. Ive unplugged just get eratic reading ipr stays same. Checked ficm 47to47.5 cranking and koeo. No codes beside for my egr delete and when i unplugged icp. I've been tinkering on this truck for a couple years now still lost bit getting better. I now have driver valve cover off . Its a 2003 .
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The truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
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