Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Coolant System Pressure 16 Lbs?
Mar 29, 2015
I just did a pressure check on the cooling system on my 04 6 liter. It reached 16lbs towing an enclosed trailer and into a strong head wind. I was just wondering what's the Normal pressure suppose to be, or is there a Normal pressure. I'm using the new style cap with the larger spring in it and it didn't kick any coolant out.
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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Adding a coolant pressure gauge to truck? There are some expensive kits but considering I already have a gauge that would work, could I just buy a 5v sending unit for fuel pressure or oil pressure and have it work?
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I recently had an upper radiator hose bust and ever since I have been having a slight water leak. It appeared to be coming from between the layers of rubber on the new hose which I replaced twice since the incident. Both hoses had water seeping from the same location. This afternoon I plan on doing a pressure test on the cooling system to diagnose where the water may be coming from.
My question is could a loss of pressure cause larger than normal Oil and Water deltas? If I have to replace the radiator is there a particular manufacturer or type I should avoid? Should I try to get a factory replacement from Ford or would an Autoparts unit be sufficient? The original is still in the truck now with 286,000 miles on it.
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Im lost here, my 6.0 is building coolant pressure on start up, and the temperature is not overheating. I cant tell if the pressure is staying high while driving, but its blowing coolant passed the cap. Thermostat? The truck was on a coolant pressure tester for 24 hours and never lost a pound of pressure.
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Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.
So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?
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So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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I noticed when I shut off the truck about 30-40 minutes later I'll open the degas bottle cap and notice there is no pressure.
I used a coolant pressure tester kit and pumped in 16PSI but couldn't hear or find the leak.
I'm going to buy a smoke machine in a month or two but until then, can I still drive the truck ?
I'm guessing it is a pin hole leak somewhere as once I shut the truck off... there is a lot of coolant pressure.
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Ok 2004 6.0. Recent work done is changed the number 8 injector. Thing was running great. Driving down the highway on a slight grade. Heard a pop and no power at all. Didn't see any smoke. Run the scanner get codes for ICP pressure and ICP pressure long crank. Icp pressure shows zero with ICP volts at .8. IPR climbs to 85%. Obviously need to check where I lost did work?
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I have a 2004 late model 6.0. My son was driving it and parked it in the road told him move it and it wouldn't start. I got it to start and it ran for about 10 seconds. I pushed it in the drive way and left it over night. In the morning there was oil on the driveway. I found that there was the wrong oil filter put in and there is no oil pressure at start up and no oil entering the filter housing. Where to start would be great. I am going to get a Scangauge II to get more information. Could be the ICP?
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I have an 04 f-350 that I did an EGR delete, new Ford oil cooler, new radiator (not ford), new thermostat (not ford), coolant filter, glow plugs and harness, MBRP theoretical 4in downpipe (was 3.5 to converter) flushed cooling system with lots of tap water before the delete, replaced coolant with Cat 1 ELC and distilled water, fresh T6 5W-40 and filter, several weeks ago. Was troubleshooting a wireing problem and found what looks like oil sludge in the degass bottle while under the hood.
Possible that while doing EGR delete I clipped a gasket? Truck runs great, no smoke out the tail pipe. There is what looks like about a cup floating on top the coolant. Oil level is down about a 1/2 quart and clean, no water in it. Where do I start looking?
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I have a 04 F350 Dually and I am not getting any oil to my high oil pressure. Truck will crank but won't turn over. The high oil pressure pump is fine. What am I missing?
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I recently was informed by my local mechanic that fuel was leaking into my coolant. He said I had a cracked head based on this and it would give soon. Well, he was right, and now I need to do a head job. I found new heads, but would like to know how many book hours this should take before I proceed. He gives me a wide range of time, and don't want to get taken advantage of.
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Just changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
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Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
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I have an 04 F350 and I was wondering if the fan is supposed to be locked up when the A/C is on. In max A/C with the fan on 3 it's barely keeping cool in the 95 degree heat we have been having. If I rev the engine I don't hear the fan noise like I do when the coolant temp hits 218 and the fan roars. Freon was replaced several months ago, along with receiver/dryer and orifice tube when I did the HG's. The A/C shop drew a vacume and did not find any leaks.
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I spotted a leak last nite on my 6.0. It is coolant, running down the right rear on 2 metal lines that go to the trans I think. It was dark and 24 degrees so I did not spend too much time looking. Shut the mother down til I could research. 2004 250, 6.0 FX4x4, stock. Coolant was changed to green by previous owner. Bought it 4 months ago. 187,000 miles.....
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I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
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