Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Code P2284 After Oil Cooler Work?
Aug 4, 2017
I have the later model 2004 F250 6.0 (built May 2004). I have owned it since new. It has 157K miles.
My newest problem comes after I did oil cooler work. I know everyone points to the IPR and/or ICP, but my readings seem strange to me.
About three weeks ago I replaced the oil cooler with a Bulletproof remote unit that uses the factory oil cooler. During the job I removed and installed a new Ford IPR sensor and added the improved screen to it. I removed and installed new Ford water/oil temp sensors, a Ford low oil pressure sensor, and a Ford ICP sensor (in the pax valve cover). I also installed the improved turbo feed line and turbo drain tube. I rebuilt the oil filter/fuel housing and installed new o-rings and the blue spring. I have the dual alternator set-up and had been running the lower alternator unplugged for the last several years. (I know I know). So I swapped in a reman alternator.
I managed start-up after running batteries dead a few times. During the drive I felt idle speed jump up by itself a few times while at low RPM. I felt an unusual skip or two in the motor but the power seemed ok. I accelerated and the truck pulled fine. At highway speed I heard what sounded like the engine hitting a high rev and trying to cut out, but it was very mild. I noticed this first at 2000rpm, but it may have not been pronounced enough for me to notice it at lower RPM. When the cut-out occurred strongest I slammed the throttle down to see if the problem would worsen, but the truck accelerated well with no cut-out, but when I eased off the throttle at higher RPM the cutting out returned. My Banks IQ showed P2284.
I installed 2 new batteries and replaced the ICP pigtail and soldiered it. That had no effect. I put the old ICP sensor back in. That had no effect. I borrowed a Snap-on Solus Edge scanner to test the truck. I would add that the truck starts up as quick as it has always started; 3-5 seconds.
Scanner results:
Key-on, engine off, ICP (voltage) reads .25, IPR reads 15.
During the crank sequence (before engine start), on a freeze frame, RPM is 157, ICP(voltage) reads 1.04, IPR reads 21, ICP pressure reads 768.8 psi. That seemed kinda normal.
Engine running at idle RPM, I read ICP (voltage) 1.2, IPR 15, ICP pressure 863.1psi. That seemed okay.
I drove the truck with a cleared code and noted that something occurred to change my readings. Before the change while driving under a short heavy acceleration to 54mph, I noted these readings: 3533rpm, ICP (voltage) 3.77, IPR 60, ICP pressure 3400.1. I eased off the throttle, stopped the truck, and noted an uncommanded REV-up by a few hundred RPM and back to idle. It was a quick burp. Afterwards ICP pressure and IPR readings went strange and the code 2284 came up. Looking at the graphs over time, RPM, ICP pressure, ICP voltage, and IPR all follow a similar curve---until the REV-up occurred.
The scanner next showed that as I mildly accelerated to 1705 RPM (about 15mph) graphs showed ICP voltage, ICP pressure, and IPR went up. But when I let off the throttle ICP pressure became fixed at 869.9. I continued to drive the truck.
The truck accelerated fine as it had under previous runs. The Scanner shows that although ICP pressure remains fixed, the ICP voltage climbs and falls with RPM. With RPM ranging from 630 to 1800, IPR holds at about 30. Then under a very heavy acceleration to 44mph, ICP pressure began to increase above 869.9, then followed ICP voltage upwards. ICP pressure climbed to 3479psi with an ICP voltage of 4.64. At that moment IPR read 69%. That seemed normal until I let off the throttle. Then ICP pressure drops back to exactly 869.9 which I assume is some sort of PCM-induced value.
It is during this time at higher RPMs I can hear the engine-cut-outs, but they are mild and the engine still responds to heavy acceleration. I have accelerated full throttle to 100mph and saw max boost values of 29psi (stock program). On engine shut-down and restart the problem seems to reset itself and the truck will run normally for a bit before the failure occurs.
To correct the problem I have removed the banks equipment. There was no change. I have ordered the ICP short connector that will allow me to test actual voltage on the ICP while the engine is running. I plan to soldier some wires and run the meter into the cab for testing.
The scanner reads a desired ICP pressure as well as the actual ICP pressure. When the failure occurs both the desired and actual read 869.9 at less than heavy acceleration.
The scanner also reads desired RPM as well as actual RPM. Desired RPM remains pegged at 640rpm all the time.
Also, engine running the FICM voltage in is 13.5 and voltage out was 47.5.
On the very last test run I got two new codes: P2138 and P2140. I had run the truck with my foot on the floor on that test. Is this a glitch or does this play into my problem?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
View 13 Replies
Stuck turbo and high deltas so I replaced the oil cooler, coolant, thermostat, rebuilt turbo. Etc etc. Now I'm getting p2284/p2285 intermittently. Upon inspection ICP looks great at idle and 2500. IPR at hot idle is 20.9 but when you run it up to 2500, it drops to 14.7 and after a few seconds hpop at idle jumps to 875 and I get the p2284/2285. Bad IPR?
View 14 Replies
So I'm about to do the oil and EGR coolers on my 6.0. At one point, or currently, my EGR cooler was leaking, so I've got that gooey residue in the intake, at least around the EGR valve. No dry carbon residue. I wondering what is the best way to clean the intake out, if at all. I have to assume there's some clogging in there, especially since I've had the P0401 code for a while. I just wanted to get this done right once, so I'm not coming back to it again any time soon....
View 5 Replies
My 2011 has 62k miles and has been throwing P0401 codes, which results in losing power. I assume the EGR cooler is clogged. So I went to the dealership to see if it's covered, and was told there's no warranty coverage.
I would rather blockoff the EGR cooler than repair it. I would also like the extra performance from a tuner like the MiniMaxx. I do prefer the stock exhaust and not real excited about the drone/smell that comes with deleted DPF.
Will I have issues if it's tuned with the EGR blocked off, and stock exhaust? Or am I better off doing a full delete at this point?
View 14 Replies
I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
View 9 Replies
After installing a new oil cooler my 6.0 will not crank over and I have no injector noise or communication with my scanner , that is until I unplug the center connector to the PCM then injectors come on and engine cranks and pcm communicates with the scanner....
View 3 Replies
What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
View 11 Replies
Just found out that my EGR cooler is bad. How big of a job is this/how much down time if a compatent tech is doin the job?
View 14 Replies
I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
View 2 Replies
I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
View 7 Replies
Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
View 5 Replies
Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
View 3 Replies
My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
View 8 Replies
Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
View 14 Replies
2004 6.0 90k miles... Oil cooler plugged & coolant puking due to egr cooler flash boil.
Flushed the coolant with tap water then replaced water pump and tstat weekend before. This week backflushed heater core & block. This weekend backflushed the oil cooler. My coolant system would be considered severe contamination due to tap water use resulting in rust. Average ect was 195-205 & avg eot was 230-240 before flush. Here's a baseline before flush.
Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac. The pressure was pretty intense holding the hose into the bore just running water through it. Hit the trigger about 20 cycles of water then air blasts.
Filled with 1/2 gal of restore & tap water. Ran it for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Then dumped restore while hot, was pretty cloudy but not that dirty. Let engine cool then filled with tap water, ran for 10 mins then dumped again. Stuck hose in degas with only the the drivers block plug pulled & revved engine a few times to have the water pump push any crap out. Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac again. This time the back pressure on oil cooler was much less vs first time.
Took a mason jar with restore plus in it & boiled it in water. Got it up to 190 then poured it directly into the oil cooler & let it sit for 30 minutes. Then backflushed again.
Put rest of the whole gallon of restore plus in & topped off with tap water. Ran again for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Dumped restore plus while hot & it was very green & contaminated with rust. Topped off with tap water, ran for 10 mins at 190 then dumped. Revved the engine again with hose in the degas bottle & only drivers block plug out to blow more junk out. Filled with tap water & dumped again.
It was late last night so I filled it with distilled & parked it. Plan to do 3 straight distilled water flushes this week running rpm 1k+ for 1 hour each time in hopes to rid all the chemicals.
The backflush didn't result in lower deltas, but it didn't puke from the degas bottle at all during both chemical flushes. The oil cooler definitely needs replaced but at least it's not puking anymore & will hopefully stay this way for about 1k miles of driving so I can let the coolant filter rid anything that breaks loose during driving. My hope was to get some sort of flow across the egr cooler to stop the flash boiling puking & get as much junk out of the system as possible. So I guess there's some sort of achievement in the end.
Currently running cheap regular green (mixes with all) elc. I am running the cheap stuff because when the coolant was puking a gallon of coolant every trip i couldn't justify upgrading to the Rotella ELC yet. Plan is to flush with rest of restore(1/2 gallon) after oil cooler r&r then switch to Rotella ELC.
View 14 Replies
I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
View 14 Replies
]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
View 14 Replies
My orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? I have decent tools.
I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.
View 14 Replies
Is the irp high flow oil cooler any good? Or is it better to stay with the oem
View 14 Replies
After pulling my fifth wheel, I will unhook and the truck sits. The next morning, the truck will sound like it is wheezing for about a minute or so... I high pitched whine sorta. But only on the cooler mornings, after towing.
Thoughts on this? Can't really take it to the dealer yet because its too sporadic.
View 14 Replies