I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
View 4 RepliesIt appears mine is rubbing against the battery tray in my 04 6.0. It just flops around when I push on it. It's not bolted to anything.
View 8 RepliesBattery light came on today. Checked voltage with truck running and only getting 11.8 / 11.9 volts at each battery. Alternator shot or ????? 2004 F350
View 14 RepliesI've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
View 14 Repliesam in possession of my fianc's F350. The battery light kept coming on, I changed both batteries... twice. I pulled the alt and took it to 2 different stores, asking them each to test it twice, and it checks out good. Drove it to a family function in Sept and it died (no lights, no dings, just completely dead), couldn't get it to jump so I had to have it towed. Tow truck driver said it was probably the starter solenoid, but I couldn't get any confirmation. Had a charger/jumper hooked up to it and got gage movement, dings and heard a clicking sound when I tried to start it.... still no jump. Is this a starter issue, or an electrical issue?
View 14 RepliesSo when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
I have an 05 trailblazer with 99k 4.2 4wd. The headlights flicker sometimes at night when I let of the gas. Tonight was by far the worst. It looked like I had pulsating headlights. The dashboard lights do it as well. When it occurs the battery gauge drops several amps as well but returns to 14ish amps after things level out.
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2010 prius (26k miles..prior collision.. so no warranty) for my wife. The battery drains in just 3 days if left unused. I had Toyota install a new battery. Again 3 days left parked and battery was dead.
I locked myself in and measured the consumption. It drains at the rate of 1.1Amps when parked. That looks very high consumption. I want to measure with SKS turned off, but that's going to be tricky. I believe SKS resets when battery is reconnected.
I am 150 mi from my service dealer and my 2005 W12 won't start . The dash lights go on , a/c vents open etc, but the keyless start or the key itself does nothing .
I recall that there may be a way to use the Accessory Battery to start the car, but I don't recall the routine. I don't want to have any local roadside service messing around. BTW it is the original battery and shows about 14amps.
I have a 2011 6.7 with 16000 miles and it just turned 5 years old.Yesterday had hood up and notice driver side battery eye indicator was red, other battery was showing green, truck turned over and started fine. 15 degrees out this morning, truck started fine.Truck hasn't been ran for a couple weeks.What does the red indicate,battery needs charged or time for new batteries?
View 6 RepliesMy battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
View 1 RepliesI charged the batteries fully, new alternator put in and checked grounds. Light was off, but while driving to work it came back on again and stays on. Battery voltage is 14.2 on each at idle and 13.4 while engine and key off. Maybe the two prong connector needs to be replaced?
View 10 RepliesRunning down the road today and the battery light came on. Went on and off intermittently as I drive home and the tuner showed 11.5v. Got home, shut it off (didn't mean to) and restarted it. Tested voltage at the batteries and was over 14. Need to take it for a drive and see if it repeats.
View 14 RepliesI have 51k on my 2014 Platinum F-350 and the little red battery light come on. I take it in and they tell me that it is going to be a little over $1,300.00 to replace my alternator. I have had the truck since May 30, 2014 and the alternator has gone bad. I am regretting trading in my 1999 F-350 with over 365 k on it. Never had an electrical problem besides replacing the batteries every 4 years or so. Is this a common problem on these new trucks?
View 14 RepliesWell today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
View 14 RepliesIf I had to charge the batteries, Do you charge only the primary battery or do you charge both?
View 4 RepliesIn the past I've had truck batteries last close up to 9 years but at 59 months one of my batteries is not looking that great. The battery status indicator is red. I checked the level of the side that appears to be leaking and it's ok. I've had no issues with starting and it seems to crank over just as fast as when new.
View 14 RepliesMy battery light is coming on in the mornings for up to about 14 miles. I am showing 13.2 to 13.6 volts with torque pro. The light hardly ever comes on in the afternoon, but sometimes. I had the batteries and alternator tested yesterday at Advance Auto parts. Alternator showed good both times they tested it. Batteries showed at or just above their rated cranking amps. I have inspected both negative grounds from the batteries, the engine ground from the firewall to the passenger side back side of the engine, and the body ground on the passenger side to the frame. They look great, tight, and have not moved in a long time. I added a cable from the alternator to the fender well and it showed about 7 amps while idling before dropping to about 4.5 amps. I am thinking of still buying a new alternator anyway. That is the only think I can think of. Worse case, I just have a spare in the back of the truck.
View 12 RepliesI bought a 2004 E350 van that has been driven 9000 miles in the past 6 years. Replacing a thermostat in an E350 6.0 Powerstroke van?
My van is running on the cold side ECT 176-180 when idling. It will reach 190 when I am driving. The EOT is 6-10 degrees higher.
I am flushing the system with Restore and plan to replace the T-stat soon when it arrives from Amazon. I have 3 gallons Cat ECT-1 full strength coolant and a lot of distilled and reverse osmosis water for the flush.
Is it a long procedure? There is not much room in a van to work with ease. If it's too involved, I will find some over time at work and pay my mechanic to do the install.
Our 2011 SD 6.7. 190,000 km Came home after a week off and started the truck up via the command start, when I got in it the little red battery icon was lit up on the dash. Well this is my 3rd SD and in the past I always ended up needing an alternator when that light came on. So off to the dealer and was about to replace it, the service rep. stated the alt. was ok and there was something else wrong and it was turning the light on.
So you think here goes my next weeks pay looking for the Needle in a hay stack. Guys the Tech who is a great guy found a 18 guage red wire that runs from the pass. side battery under and infront of the motor not in any real wire harness and it goes to the alt. had some corrosion forming in under the insulation causing some resistance, and it was telling the system to turn the dash light on.
The tech replaced the bad wire and all is good now. Also you can test the out put of the Alt. and it will show around 15 volts with the truck running even with the red icon on, so you will know it's the bad wire and not an Alt.
I'm pretty new to working on cars let alone a diesel truck, so this could well be something simple and / or dumb. Hopefully it is.
Batteries recently replaced. Started cleaning terminals on driver side and realized I needed a couple of fasteners. Between getting them, the weather going bad and getting sick that battery was unconnected for several days, truck not driven.
Finished cleaning the terminals this afternoon, went to connect the positive cables and they're sparking. Driver side negative cable is unattached. Neither of the two positive cables sparks when touching positive battery post alone. They only spark when they are brought together.