I have a 04 F250 6.0 and change transmission and transfer case. Now all of a sudden the rear passenger tire is locking up but the rear driver side still moves. I've dropped the carrier and the ring and pinion looks great and so does the spider gears ... Need on whole new rear....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
I just see a fluid by the front passenger tire leak when the diesel is running and ac is on.There was fluid up by both aluminum lines going into a plastic canister in the engine compartment on the passenger side.I couldn't find any cracks in the hoses or aluminum lines..The plastic canister I believe is (AC ACCUMULATOR ) did have a hiss of air when I shut the truck off. I can't see where the clear liquid is coming from. Just started to leak by the front passenger tire.
View 3 RepliesOk I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
I have not been on here for a while my X has never had any problems 140,000+ miles. yesterday went out side to start her and let it warm up went back inside to make coffee came out 10 minutes later and found a server oil leak pouring out under the truck. Immediately turned her off popped the hood and found oil all over the back top of the motor? before I start tearing into it, need to know where to start. I've read IPC sensor, CAC hose, anything else to look for?
View 7 RepliesTruck started riding weird, checked and my right rear tire is cupped. So now I get to buy new tires! I guess 60K and change on the original Michelin's is pretty good - whatdy'all think?
View 9 RepliesI do 98% of my driving unloaded and almost never tow. (Kinda weird for an F350 huh) I know that the truck recommends going with 65psi front and 80psi rear but the rear tires seem to not be wearing evenly across the tread pattern. The edges still have the little rubber stubs sticking out of them even after almost 3000 miles. Should I be running a lower tires pressure in the rear when empty or should I just let tire rotations take care of the uneven wear. If I should air down, what pressure would be recommended? The front tires are wearing normally at 65psi and they have more weight on them then the rear.
View 14 RepliesGot stuck, noticed when in four wheel drive only the front passenger side and rear passenger side was pulling. Is that normal? Or should both fronts be pulling?
2011 f350 dually 4x4 6.7.....
I have a 2011 f250 crew cab lariat that actually sits about 3" higher on the passenger side in the rear. I never noticed until I put some 4" pro comp blocks on the rear. I measured before and the rear left was 40" and right was 41-3/4". Now the drivers side rear is 42" and rear passenger side is 45"? I have looked at the blocks to make sure they are seated properly and everything is installed correct so what gives? What could be causing this. I bought the truck with 99k miles and now it's at 130k miles. I do tow a small cargo trailer sometimes but it is only about 3k lbs. Now I am thinking of buying some new leaf springs to see if that corrects the problem.
View 4 RepliesLast week I took my first long drive since taking in my truck for its 24000km service. Also first real drive on my new toyo m/t 275/70/18 ( same size as stock michelins )
About 1 hour into the drive, My exhaust regened, then slightly after I hit ( not held ) the ok button and it reset my trip. Which was strange as you need to hold it down to reset. But the bar just kept going. Then suddenly I went from 12.8 l /100 to 19 l / 100. Or converted it about 18-19 mpg to 14. After stopping and resetting the truck, it resumed 12.8 at 110 kmph.
Then today coming back on a 4-hour drive doing anywhere from 100 - 130 kmph ( 60 - 80 mph ) I could not get it to move off 13.8 l / 100 km. more then + or - .3
Is a 6 mpg difference normal for adding mudders? Or is my truck glitching or plugged somewhere.
My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
Okay, so i was driving down the road. Turned around and all of sudden I have no power steering... The fluid is good and I actually just replaced this ps pump 2 months ago.. Also when I hit the brakes they kinda feel weird too like there not working fully or something... Should I just start tearing this ps pump off?
View 12 RepliesStarted with lots of black smoke all of a sudden. Not under any significant load at that time. Reached destination (barely) and started the search. Have taken off blue connectors on CAC passenger side. Top is marginal but see no holes. Pulled the MAP hose and see nothing unusual. Have not checked the driver side CAC or the BPV sensor. Have a ScanII device that shows no codes. Got my other scanner and it too shows no codes.
Had it towed home over 100 miles 'cause now it just barely runs. Idles fine but have a engine noise change (deep and hollow) every once and a while at idle. EGR leak? Doesn't blow black smoke anymore. More of a white/blue. Exhaust smells odd. Absolutely no turbo activity. When shutting hear no whine down of the turbo. No boost evident on the dash or on the scan II. I am at a loss at this point. Will check fittings again.
Nothing but trouble lately with this thing. All the big stuff is done and just switched to Synthetic oil too. Now I have these intermittent RPM drops of about 200 - 400 RPM. Seems worse under load.
I've been advised to check the ICP pigtail which I can't do without taking it apart. I did program the ICP volts into the SGII. See the video.
Power stroke video - YouTube
I have to change out the inner seals on my front axle on my 04 f250 6.0 4x4. was wondering what the torch spects are for the bolts on the end caps and the torch spects on the differential cover? I already have the passenger side axle out. was changing my ball joints on that side when I noticed a bunch of oil in the axle case and on the hub knuckle. Also, this might be a long shot but is there any way to change the inner seal on the drivers side without taking out the axle on that side? I have the passenger out and if I could get away without pulling the driver side that would be awesome.
View 10 RepliesI posted about my steering issue and i went ahead and did the gear box and now on to the ujoints ...
HUB LOCK ASSEMBLY is in 2 i started to gently pry it out with a flat head in a star figure while jiggling and pulling the whole unit with my other hand well ...
The cover plate separated from the rest of the lock and I am lost ...
My truck is an 03 and I changed number 5 injector and number 4 injector, checked my ficm everything is good there now I have a contribution balance code for injector 4 now injector 5 and an EGR code some guys on hear before said it could be a sensor but today I talked to my mail man who also owns a 6.0 and he sounds pretty knowledgeable he says it's possible that it could be that the computer is not reading out right and those cylinders are getting to much fuel for an instant that's what's causing the sudden puffs of black smoke. My torque pro is giving me all these codes and I'm starting to think that there is something underlying....
View 10 RepliesWith how touchy our diesel fuel system is to any contaminates...what locking cap will replace the OEM fuel cap? Also, looking for a locking DEF cap? Looking for caps for a 2016.
View 13 RepliesSo my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
View 14 Replies