Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Turbo Whistling Very Loud At Idle / High RPMs?
Mar 8, 2015
So I just purchased my first diesel a couple weeks ago (2003 f250 Lariat). I love it! However, I'm having concerns about my turbo whistle on it. At idle and while in higher RPMs is sounds ridiculously loud (even at 0 PSI in the boost). I've been doing my research on it and I know the 03's have the loudest sounding turbos because they have less vanes than the later models. I know without a video it's going to be hard to diagnose, but I am wondering if a loose boot would cause a turbo whining sound through the exhaust? I have yet to hear ANY other diesel in person that has a turbo whine as loud as mine.
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I have 2003 f250 6.0, had the turbo rebuilt and I put it back in, my turbo is whistling but I'm also getting a humming noise kinda sounds like a when u down shift at high rpm's idk what's going on, I try and power break as well to build up boost and the tires do not even spin...
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Yesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
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I have an 05 Excursion that has a rebuilt stock turbo on it, installed before I bought the truck. I installed a 3.5" downpipe/4" after exhaust with no cat and no muffler about a year and a half ago. It seems like suddenly my truck is whistling a lot more than it used to at idle. I'm not unhappy about the whistle sound, just wondering if this is possible (i.e. turbo vanes sticking or something else) or if I'm imagining things.
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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Stuck turbo and high deltas so I replaced the oil cooler, coolant, thermostat, rebuilt turbo. Etc etc. Now I'm getting p2284/p2285 intermittently. Upon inspection ICP looks great at idle and 2500. IPR at hot idle is 20.9 but when you run it up to 2500, it drops to 14.7 and after a few seconds hpop at idle jumps to 875 and I get the p2284/2285. Bad IPR?
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For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.
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For a month or two now my truck has been making a squeal and the turbo has been sticking after hard acceleration. The sticking was a woebegone unison ring and I was hoping the squeal would be resolved when I cleaned the turbo but it didn't, in fact, it got worse.
It used to be occasionally and go away after warming up, but now it's more constant than not. It goes away when the VGT does its idle cycle and once you get up to speed.
Here's the sound - YouTube.....
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What's everyone's fan rpms at idle? Mine vary and lately I've experience a strange issue where fan immediately locks up and rages right after cold startup. Today it was running 2900 rpm. It settled to about 480-500 but I know I'm the past it's been like 300 or so at idle.
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I literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
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I'm on the road and I pulled over for a pit stop so I don't have time for a search right now, but I noticed under heavy acceleration a turbo whine so high pitched it almost sounds like metal on metal. Is this normal and I just noticed it, a leak somewhere, or maybe indication of something worse? The truck seems to be running ok otherwise. It's an '02 w/7.3 and 220k miles.
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6.0L revving to extreme high RPMs and kill? Blow turbo was replace, fired right up but upon pulling it out while giving it lower RPMS (2000) engine over revved and killed - Now crank but no start. Checked everything. Removed valve covers, checked injectors, great fuel pressure.
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I bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
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Need to know if you can mount a 04+ turbo on a 03 engine without changing the intake with the cross in the back ? Or does the intake have to be changed. If the intake does need to be changed will the egr need to be change as well ?
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Having a turbo shaft that broke? My 03 F250 turbo shaft was just replaced by the dealer, actually the whole turbo. This is the 4th turbo. Truck has 48000 miles on it. 1st 3 turbo's had sticking unison ring & vanes but this one had a broken shaft. Mechanic said unison ring & vanes were fine.
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I have an '03 powerstroke 6.0, 4 inch turbo back exhaust. truck had lost boost and would cut in and out if i got on pedal and now a little bit of oil is collecting at tip, could this be because of bad turbo seals? And could the turbo still be alright? Another thing, I'm losing coolant, and I have noticed when I took the EGR out and cleaned it, the valve itself was the powdery black carbon, the cooler was wet, and I know it's not supposed to be like that. I am not thinking head gaskets yet, cause if it had a blown head gasket, I wouldn't be able to drive it. It is currently sitting, and I'm just trying to fix it. Would I be able to fix the turbo seals myself?
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I have an 03 super duty with the 6.0, came back from vacation with my 5th wheel in tow. Lost the upper turbo hose twice on way home. Managed to get it rigged and made it home and parked it. a week later went to uncouple and move the truck and had some very strange issues. Started fine but could barely make it up driveway (no trailer at this point). No power, felt like when turbo hose came off. Got it moved and checked turbo hose and all was good?? Went out a couple days later and no start.
Checked all relative fuses and relays and all checked good. Jumped starter solenoid and starter worked fine. turned key on and jumped quick connect on right side of engine compartment to battery and it fired right up and ran. Jiggled shifter around in park and neutral and nothing. BTW I always here the relay clicking and swapped with one of the others just to be sure, same thing. After looking on the internet for a day and a half thought maybe a NSS in the tranny but I think I have the 5R110 that does not apply??
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Drove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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I noticed a rough idle after driving an hour with a 6000 lb trailer and stopped at an offramp. Had no performance issues to that point in an hour drive. Then I noticed a good amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. The idle felt just like when I had a contribution/balance code on #5 a year ago, and a new injector fixed that. Before long (10-20 minutes later) the idle got real loud, like a big knock/loud tick every revolution.
I had a bunch of stored codes, so I reset them and later found a P0281 - Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance and P0404 - EGR control circuit range/performance were the 2 that came back. I drove it 2 more hours to get home. It ran well under load, but coasting or stopped gave the loud knock, and stopped and idling was a rough, inconsistent idle. It even stalled on me 3 times when braking for a red light (auto trans). There was a lot of white smoke all the time, plus a little dark smoke on acceleration.
What would you recommend for troubleshooting steps? I could put a new injector in #7 and clean the EGR valve, but want to have a good idea that will fix it first. Is there a good chance I have a messed up piston in #7 now?
Codes I cleared:
P0148 Fuel delivery error
P0234 turbo overboost (i know i need to pull and clean the turbo anyway, unrelated to today's issue)
P0281 Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance
P0404 EGR control circuit range/performance
P0670 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
P0683 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
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