Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Torque Shift Leak By Spacer To Transfer Case
Jul 4, 2015
I have a 03 Excursion 6.0 that just developed a transmission leak between the transmission and transfer case. It appears to be the transmission because the transfer case fluid is at the top. I started to notice transmission fluid leaking in my driveway. I have not had any driving issues with the transmission but I am not driving until I correct the problem. If this is the rear transmission seal, how had is it to change this seal? Must I remove the spacer between the transfer case and 5r110 tranny? Any special tools needed?
My temps have stayed at or below 150 if I recall. My fluid is slightly low in the transmission at about 134 operating temperature. The fluid is clean, red and has no burnt odor. My transfer case is topped off. Fluid ran out the fill plug when I removed it.
There is an aluminum square spacer than necks down. It is about 6" long between the transmission output on the excursion and the transfer case. The leak I see is where that spacer meets the transfer case. I see enough for the fluid to leak onto the cross member and to the driveway. I estimate that I have lost less than a 1/2 quart of fluid over a couple weeks.
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What is the correct way to clock the transfer case so it will line up with the new transfer case shift motor. I have read that you should not clock the transfer case shift motor.
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I have this 99f250 and it has a 273f, the transmission side of the case has threads stripped so I am about to remove and retap them. While its out should I consider rebuilding this thing? 197k miles, operates decently although the rear bearing on output side is my first thought to replace from mileage only.
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Do we need to drain the fluid to change the transfer case motor?
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I bought a 2000 Ex PSD 4x4 in september. I have refreshed the suspension in the last 4 months; leafs, shocks, etc. I developed a vibration over 50mph after I installed the suspension and have been chasing it since.
I have replaced the U Joints, professionally balanced and lubed driveshaft twice, adjusted driveshaft angle to less than 1*, replaced the flanges for the TC output and the driveshaft companion flange. I have not touched the diff, but there is no decernable play in the pinion or leaks. Also, I removed the rear housing of the TC and replaced the output needle bearing and seal 2 weeks ago.
The output of the TC still has 1/4" play and a clicking noise coming just forward of the chain section of the TC. I assume the play is coming from other bearings on the main shaft in the TC.
I am about to purchase a remanufactured TC, but before I do, I need a reality check. Is it possible there is damage to the output bearing of the Transmission or something else?
I don't want to buy a TC to put in and experience a TC failure again in a short time. It doesn't make sense to me that there would still be so much play after changing the output shaft needle bearing of the TC if the TC main shaft is supported not just from the TC bearings but the output of the transmission unless there was possible play in the output of the transmission.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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just bought the truck first time out hit some snow and it was not engaging low or high range, but I noticed that when I was backing up it was engaged again works in high and low range, i had to reverse about a mile up the road but it worked ? 99 4.2 standard with manual shift transfer case....
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I started having an oil leak under my truck in the last week or so and when I went under the rig briefly (it is raining here) it looks like it may be either coming from the oil pan itself or the seam between the tranny and engine case.
I thought I'd try the easy solution by torquing the appropriate bolts. Looking for the torque specs for these two sets of bolts or have any other suggestion where the oil could be coming from?
I have ~130K on the truck.
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I have a BW 1345 transfer case. Does it have the shift in the fly capability? And, if so, what precautions should be taken if shifting on the fly?
Second, where can I get a "plate" or label that shows the shift pattern? I know the shift pattern, I just want to post it in my vehicle in case anyone else ever drives it and needs to use the 4 wheel drive.
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My TC motor picked today of course with the snow to go bad. Luckily I hobbled to advance right as they were about to close and got one. I laid in the snow and changed it. Needless to say I got soaked beyond belief. Anyways now it changes in and out well but still seems way to loose in the rear. Not sure if something else is malfunctioning or if these things are like that. Right now I don't feel nearly as safe as I did in my expedition and that was without even using 4hi or low just the A4WD. The excursion is sliding everywhere. My tires have great tread but are highway tires so maybe that's the issue. They are Dura Grapplers. I'm going to try throwing some weight in the rear to maybe gain some traction.
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The dang thing leaks from the fill plug, I been reading about using liquid teflon on it.
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I've read a few posts of people trying and they say the cant be removed but I just don't believe it! I cut off some of the rubber on the with a knife and its all white plastic underneath.. I just don't believe that its actually impossible to remove this.
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Where it is located in a 97 F150 XLT Automatic with the ESOF?
Transfer Case Shift Relay Module
If it goes bad, would it be possible to still select 4L just no 4H?
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2014. Noticed the feel and sometimes clunk when shifting to 4 high? My house sits up a hill and this time of year, routinely have to use 4X4 to get up. There is a little more noise and vibration than im use to. Usually shift coming down a semi flat dirt/ice road at low speeds, typically about 10mph. Going in for first oil change soon and was gonna ask them to check it out for peace of mind.
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Originally it would light up on the dash, the hubs would lock, but the transfer case would not shift in to 4 wheel. Followed the troubleshooting I've found, was receiving power at the connection on the shift motor but it was not turning.
So I went and bought a new motor, installed it, still wouldn't turn. (with the motor off the transfer case but electrically connected). So I found a few more replies about the relays, swapped them, nothing.
Removed the covers and manually flipped the connection, nothing. Now my hubs are locked, transfer case is not, and I get nothing when I change the switch on the dash. (no lights, no hub click shift, no 4 low, nada). All the fuses are good, just doesn't work.
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I purchased a 98 dodge ram 4x4 v8 with automatic transmission. When I purchased it the guy told me there was an issue with the transfer case. From what he told me he got stuck and the transfer case is the result. I was told there is a fork in the transfer case that is probably bent? Does this sound correct? It is currently in 2wd. Do I have to remove the transfer case to replace the fork? What is it like to remove the transfer case? Drop the tranny?
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So I got a new tranny about a month ago. Everything works flawlessly. Until today.... Going up hills even small ones feels like I'm towing a house. No torque felling. In 3rd and 4th gear (automatic) it gains boost really fast and peaks at 28 lbs. and coasting downhill it slows itself down. I can go from 60 to 40 without braking in a half mile stretch. I fist noticed something was different when I started to drive home tonight; it makes a sort of whining or howling noise. I can't quite pinpoint where it's coming from. I'm tired of this truck but love it at the same time.
2003 125k miles New tranny New injectors New oil cooler and egr cooler Possible bad HPOP
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Well, I have the dreaded transfer case leak on my 112000 mile 03 2.7 santa fe. I have just returned from a 12,000 mile trip through Canada, Alaska and then back to Colorado. During that trip I was smelling a burning oil smell and after I came back I traced it to the transfer case. I think it is leaking both from where it mates to the drive train and a one inch seam along the transfer case plate.
It has leaked there for some time(and I had been diligent about filling it up), but this extended trip it has has been more bothersome. I called the local Hyundai shop and they want $1100 and won't guarantee a fix. Is there some product I could use on that one inch seam externally to stop the leak (I know that wouldn't seal the circular seam around the drive shaft)? I kept very accurate gas records and averaged 25.6 MPG for the whole 12k trip running from 55 to 65 MPH.
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I'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
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Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
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I am beginning to get a rusty colored leak at the interface between the transfer case and transaxle on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.7l 4wd. There wasn't any leak less than a week ago. What would make the transaxle and transfer case start leaking at the same time?
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