Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Starter Won't Crank Over
May 10, 2015
2003, 6.0,128K, original starter, I was towing a heavy trailer out of state, shut engine off at a gas station 2 miles from my destination. Truck started back up as normal. Continued on my way towing uphill. I backed in the driveway and shut it off for a half hour while unloading the trailer. Went back out, all lights came on with ignition, but no crank. I don't hear a click like a solenoid. I checked fuses, I got hung up on checking what looked like a solenoid on the passenger fender. Its a big relay, but now I;m thinking its for something else. I had to leave the truck out of state and was able to get a ride back. I won't be back there for two weeks. Should I bring a new starter? A 6.4 starter?
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I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
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My 2003 Ford F250 superduty diesel wouldn't start. It was a cool morning and I suspected a problem with the glow plugs. I checked the GPCM ( new in the last year) and it was fine, than I tested both right and left harnesses...they showed two out of range. After further inspection I noticed both my buss bars were completely rotted off with the wire and top of the glow plugs exposed.
Since I cranked the truck over so much, I removed the ground terminals from the recently replaced batteries and put a charger on overnight, I also plugged in the block heater since the glow plug system is suspect. I went out the next morning, re attached the batteries, and turned the key. The fuel pump and injectors cycled as usual, than I turned the key to start....nothing....no click...no sound.
I disconnected the starter trigger wire and touched it to the positive post.... a few sparks but no click or engagement. I jumped the solenoid...again a few sparks...but no engagement. I removed the starter (less than a year old, and not a lot of use) and had it bench tested, it tested fine. I re installed the starter, and cleaned all the terminals and connectors through the the system, still nothing.
I checked the cable from the battery to the large terminal...12 volts, I had my wife try to start the truck and checked where the trigger disconnects on the fender and at the solenoid....12 volts when the key is turned to the start position. I used a jumper cable to run power from the battery to the solenoid...nothing, I ran the jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter case...nothing. I checked all the fusible links and found a broken wire from chaffing, I repaired it ( but I think it was what was causing my battery light to come on for the last few months) even though the alternator, batteries and everything going else checked good.....nothing. I checked the starter relay...it checked out good, as well as the ignition fuse.
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I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?
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ICP and IRP changed both fuel filtrs and Blue spring put in. HPOP Pressure is over 1600PSI when cranking with 2.5 to 4 volts.
Will try to run but acts like not getting enough fuel. If I loosen the lines off the upper filter housing lots of fuel runs out. Lots of smoke when cranking also.
FICM volts are 48.5.
Reading with Scan Gauge 2.
The truck is a 2003 F350 DRW Stock 6.0 with 433000 on the odometer.
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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I drove my 03 f-250 to work Monday everything was good no issues. At end of my shift truck will not start . turn key dash lights up glow plugs cycle turn to start nothing . Does not turn over. after some checking batteries are good. Starter will crank if i manually engage it but truck will not run even with jumping starter with ignition turned on . hooked scanner up says cannot communicate. Checked fuses etc fuse #31 has no power to it (trans range selector and starter relay)question is where to look next?
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My 2003 f-250 6.0l has not been starting. I have connected a scan tool and I am getting around 1000 psi icp. The FICM voltage is 47.5v however when I cycled the key it dropped to 43.5 then started climbing to 48, but I am not getting FICM sync. I does eventually start when I do get sync. It seems to run fine after it starts. It does not do this all of the time. But this morning It cranked until the battery died. New FICM?
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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I am trying to diagnose an issue with my 2003 F-250 6.0L PSD.
The first time I crank it everyday, it struggles to start. Beyond that, it seems to run fine and not have issues cranking throughout the day.
I've recently replaced both batteries, the FICM, the fuel filters and the FI wiring harness. What could be the issue?
The video shows exactly what I deal with every morning.
YouTube - 2003 F-250 Cold Start Issue ....
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So yet another crank no start. Truck is an 03 55k miles The guy I bought the truck off of told me the turbo had been reconditioned about 1000 miles ago. Drove the truck another 1000 miles or so and now having issues. I went to start truck up and noticed it took awhile longer than normal to start up and when it did finally kick over, truck and no power at all. Would idle a bit rough sounded like no turbo spool at all when given throttle. Shut the truck off right and hooked up scangauge to it went to start it and nothing.
Did throw p2285 code ICP low circuit
Values read on scangauge are as follows:
FICM Main Power 48.0V
FICM Logic Power 10-8V
FICM sync is good
ICP Pressure 1540psi on crank
IPR duty cycle 14.8% Key on engine off/48.8% while cranking
At a bit of a loss as to where to look next, would really like to troubleshoot down to the right fix instead of just throwing parts at it. Have read after sitting the turbos tend to stick and need cleaned or replaced. After being cleaned only a few thousand miles could it be stuck again? Seems like I have spark, fuel, oil just acts like its not getting any air.
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2003 250 superduty 6.0 ... I had to do the icp sensor. I went in from the top and discovered that the oil cooler was failing also. Replaced the icp and the oil cooler. Got it all back together. It would crank but wouldn't fire up. it did try for a about a tenth of a second. that's as close to firing as it got. The shifter has been loose. i ran it through the gears and the back into park. now it won't even crank.
Took the starter in to have it tested. it tested fine. Went to put it back on the truck. With no real force tightening the electrical connection it just snapped off the solenoid. put a new solenoid on it. Still no crank. Checked all related fuses and relays. They all seem to be good.
When I turn the key to on I get the buzzing noise and everything. Been through a lot of the no start check list. I don't have the ability to quite test everything. But what i can check. i do have an obd2 scanner. I cleared the code for the icp. I don't have any other codes showing. I have tripled checked that. After the weekend I am going to have to give up and take it in I think.
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My 2003 f250 6.0l just up and quit. It make a popping noise out of the intake when cranking. I am getting 1150 psi at the icp and ipr is at 62% which seems high to me. The FICM voltage seem fine unless the batteries are drained and I am getting FICM sync. I replaced the HPOP, ICP sensor and IPR about a year ago. I recently replaced the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump. I am at a bit of a loss. I did pull the IPR and everything looked fine.
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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I've been trying to figure out a slow start condition on my 06 F350. What should the starter rpms be when cranking? My scanguage reads 180. Does this sound low? Batteries are new.
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From what I've read they are a direct replacement to our 6.0 trucks. This one looks alittle dirty but it only has 100k on it. Comes with a 90 day warranty.
What do you think, go for it? Should I upgrade my wiring battery cable wiring and grounds while i'm in there?
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0 liter crew cab. It's all stock minus the FICM and bullet proof I did a few years ago when I purchased the truck. truck runs amazing with 136K miles on her, but i rarely drive the truck and she's been sitting. SO, I went out to start her up because it's been in the low teens and I wanted to keep the battery up to par. When I had turned the ignition key on to start the truck (after I cycled the glow plugs), I could hear the starter spin but instead of turning the truck over, it made a grinding noise followed by a spin type sound which I assume is the drive gear of the starter not engaging. I can get her to start but it takes multiple attempts.
Once she's warmed up, it seems to stop grinding when i try and start it which makes me think it's more of a resistance issue, possibly a relay. BTW, where is the starter relay on our trucks? I am wondering if the cold has something to do with the proper power and amps to the starter via the relay causing the starter not getting enough power to the starter. Anyway, I'm hoping there is a way to diagnose this through my torque program by looking at amps but not sure which parameters to look at on torque android.....I'm hoping it's a relay problem instead of a starter problem. I really dont want to replace a starter with a bum shoulder.......in the cold to top it off
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With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
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