Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Puking From Cap?
May 18, 2015
I have had this truck for about 8 months now, and it has been the fine only thing it really has is and EGR cooler delete.
It has started puking from the coolant reservoir, and I am not sure why. going to parts store within the next hour or so to get a new one. I have a scan gauge II and always watch my temps very closely. I am normally at 190-205 with never more than a 10-degree delta between EOT, and ECT. I am hoping I will not be taking my truck to Powerstroke specialties tomorrow!
There is pressure in the degas bottle after the truck has been running. also there is pressure after it has been off for a few hours, but much less. I've read this is a bad thing, and also that it is a good thing also i always use ford gold coolant and t6 full syn Rotella with all Motorcraft filters.
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my 2006 6.0 will roll over 300,000 miles this week but today I was pulling a 24' pontoon boat that should only weigh a few thousand pounds from hot springs Ar where there are some small rolling hills and the outside temp was 70 degrees. I was driving between 55-60 most of the drive. On a few of the longer hills my eot got up to 220 with the eot trying to catch up.
On the down side it would fall to 185-190 and the eot would also follow. On about a 5 mile straight stretch the ect was 208 and eot 202. When I got home I opened the hood and I do have coolant puke around the degas bottle. After opening the cap there seemed to be a steam/smoke coming out of the degas bottle. There was still some coolant in the bottom but not a whole lot.
On my drive to work every day my delta is between 6-8 degrees with the ect between 188-194 depending on ambient temp. So does this sound like my head gaskets finally let go? Will them blowing raise the eot/ect when towing?
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Ok so I have a 2005 f250 6.0L. It is fully bulletproofed with ARP head studs. I am running a sct anarchy on street tune. My problem is that sometimes it is "puking" coolant from the degas bottle but only a drop every now and then around the cap; it drives fine, no trouble codes, the engine and trans temp is fine and it's not blowing white smoke it still blows black smoke, and there is no coolant smell just straight diesel. What might be causing it to puke a drop of coolant every now and then?
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I've been MIA for a while. 2006 F250 just hit 83k miles. My coolant must be puking out of the degas tank. White residue all over degas and drivers side engine bay. I had my mechanic buddy pressure test coolant system for several hours and he said there weren't any leaks. He told me to replace the degas cap for now. Didn't solve the problem. Temps have always been fine. Never found drops or a puddle of coolant. Even when the truck has sat overnight for over 8 hours, there is still a bunch of pressure built up when cap is removed.
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My degas bottle is building pressure and coolants puking out. This happens after a light drive started months ago it sat at mechanic for 3 months he never touched it just wanted to replace motor so i brought it home. The truck starts and idles and runs fine temp gauge sits at normal. There was white smoke a few times several months back when it started up but went away after warm up but none now. I don't drive it i have a spare vehicle i tried doing exhaust gas test on degas bottle to check head gaskets today with no luck. They gave me the gasser only fluid with tester. No coolant on the ground and I've added the dye to see it with ultraviolet light no leaks around radiator.
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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I have a 2003 6.0 when it has having troubles trying to cut out when running low rpms but would throttle out of it then it lost all power cab filled with smoke and died now it does nothing won't even try to turn over everything under the hood is covered in soot I'm ready to pull the cab just wondering if I didn't loose any oil or coolant...
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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I've got an 03 f250 superduty and a few weeks ago i was driving home pulled to the side of the road to get a phone call and my truck sounded like it was misfiring and started to shake very rough so i quickly got it home and it barely made it up hills with no power at all, took it to the mechanic and he said it was my wiring harness, so i replaced it and it took weeks to get here and i finally get it in and my truck still seems to be misfiring ad idling very rough, I replaced my oil less then 1000km ago and I've had 2 injectors replaced. I've talked to a few diesel mechs and he recommended to put some hot shots in it.
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Ive changed all relays underhood cause i could not find info on which relay is which, checked all fuses under dash. Checked to make sure up stream on 4x4 fuse position has power. And i checked for power at 2 wire on transcase no power at 2 wire, i am also finding no power at back of dashswitch.. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows complete esof schematic
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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I have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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I have an 03 excursions with 6.0. I downloaded the sct livewire ts and the problem started. Through truck has no power the thief light flashes codes for cam and crank sensor and on when it acts up the glow plug light comes on. On the on the ts monitor it says no key in the ignition.
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When I loaded my tow tune to go camping (I tow 5th wheel) and noticed the air conditioner stopped working. When I had the chance I loaded another tune and this time disconnected the battery cables after the upload finished. This also didn't work. SufferEd through the whole trip with no AC. The next day I started the truck and the AC worked. BTW, there was no history of any AC issue. I've heard that the AC can cut out under heavy load. The AC worked on the return trip until I got about half way home. No engine lights or SES light. My truck is 2003 6.0L studded, egr delete, blue spring, SCT tuner....
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I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
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I have own my 03 six liter since new.No issues and regular maintenance.So the time has come to upgrade,I'm thinking the 6.7 Is there anything I need to know about the 6.7? There all sorts of stories on the 6.0. I am looking at years 12/14. New is out because I only put on 5 to 7 thousand a year.
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I have a 2003 that won't engage all the time. I have manual locking hubs.
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Been enjoying driving my truck since repairing the fuel pump. Now in the past 2 days it won't start when hot. Cold starts have never been better. When cranking when hot i get these readings on my scangage 2.
ICP 393 IPR 81 % I know it needs 600 psi to start and the IPR should never be 15% or 85%. I gave it a blast of starting fluid to get it started to get home, and after long crank it started.
I decided to test drive and found that under severe acceleration my ICP would be around 2670 psi and IPR 70%. This is as hard as I could make it accelerate. No hesitation or stubble. I know the 03 has hpop issues but i expected to see lower ICP and a topped out IPR.
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