Ive changed all relays underhood cause i could not find info on which relay is which, checked all fuses under dash. Checked to make sure up stream on 4x4 fuse position has power. And i checked for power at 2 wire on transcase no power at 2 wire, i am also finding no power at back of dashswitch.. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows complete esof schematic
View 14 RepliesWhen I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
I have a 03 6L Ford F350 and for the most part trouble free. Any way lately I have been getting a clicking noise that sounds like a relay clicking under my dash when my truck is running even when its just idling...
I don't always get it but it has become more common that last few weeks. So I stuck my head under the dash and it sounds like it coming from that little black box's that is attached at the base of the gas pedal ? Could be coming from fuse box cause that what i was going to go after but doesn't sound like it, SO what is the little back box for on base of gas pedal?
Stopped at the store, came out, started truck, ran for two seconds, shut off, hasn't run since,had no codes,or any other issues. I have checked all the fuses,breakers,main power supply off of passenger battery, still nothing. I have head and taillights, power points on dash, dome lights, chime for headlights. 79674 miles.
View 6 RepliesI am looking for a source for switched power under the dash. I am going to wire up power to my TST507 TPMS but I would like to have switched power. I have a bundle of wires all capped off under there but no idea if any are switched power. I thought I would ask before trying to probe each and every one.
View 7 RepliesGot a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
View 14 Replies2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
I just happened to look out the window of the house and see that the headlights on my truck were on. However, they were turned off from inside. When I stepped on to the porch, I immediately smelled something electric smoking. I tried turning off the lights by switching the lights from on to off, but that didn't effect the lights at all. There was a humming close to the turbo and the smoke seemed to be in the cabin more so than under the hood. I've had this truck for most of its life and it's never had an electrical issue. What it could be?
View 8 RepliesI was driving today and all of the sudden the dash went dark. No odometer, power windows, radio nothing. As soon as I touched the brakes it went dead. Wouldn't restart and all I could hear was a constant buzzing coming from the fuse panel by my knee. Let it sit for five or ten minutes then it would fire up and run good then do it all over again. The second time the truck had no power. I put a jump pack on it and fired right back up. After the the third time I called a toe truck. I'm guessing it is a electrical/charging issue.
View 4 RepliesReplaced the vacuum solenoid.. Thought that would fix the ac blowing threw the defrost when I switch to 4x4, but didn't fix the issue, 4x4 works great. There is another little diaphragm that has a vacuum line to it that opens and closes, could this be causing the air to go defrost? I'm going to go to a buddies house and test for leaks this Saturday, just trying to get a jump on it...
View 1 RepliesMy truck was leaking a bit of oil in the valley that was running down the back of the engine. Found the oil pressure switch was leaking up through the plug, replaced it and when I fired the truck up it was leaking more than before. Long story short, the oil pressure switch stripped out the oil cooler cover. I've been doing some research online and found a few threads about adapters that guys have made but no luck on where to buy one. I really was hoping to not have to tear this thing down to the oil cooler again.
View 4 Replieswhere the oil pressure switch is on a '05 E350 6.0 PSD? My filter is on the bottom, is it near or part of that housing?
View 9 RepliesStarted truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
View 14 RepliesTrying to locate the wires for the 4 Auxiliary switches as I want to tie into #4 to the 10 amp switch. This is on a 2015 F350 with a 6.7 engine. Book says the wires are located to the right of the glove box door and just above the passenger side kick panel. Tried this location with no success.
On my 2009 dually the wires were easily located on the drivers side on the firewall in the engine compartment.
Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
View 2 RepliesProbably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
2004 6.0. 160K miles.
I'm about to replace an injector and wanted baseline info on fuel pressure before doing the work. Using a gauge tapped into the top of an aluminum alloy fuel filter cap (from bulletproof diesel), I turned the switch key on but did not start the engine.
Static pressure jumped to 60psi, but as soon as the pump cut off the pressure dropped off to zero. Again, engine not started. I cycled the key off and back on and the pressure hit 60psi and held that until the pump cycled off, then dropped back to zero.
I'd like to get a few confirmations that fuel pressure should or should not fall off when the pump kicks off.
Side note, during the crank process the pressure jumps and holds at 60psi and stays at 60psi while idling. I have not conducted a dynamic road test yet. Didn't have the adapter to connect my long hose...
I Probably don't have the right forum but I have searched without luck throughout the site looking to see if any one has swapped out their regular towing mirrors for a set of powerscope ones with power fold and telescopic functions. I also need to know if the wiring is going to already be in there for them , I know that the switch will also have to be replaced ,but is there any thing else? truck is 2013 f250 and this forum seems to have the most responses for that year and model.
View 7 RepliesI recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
View 14 Replies