Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - No Boost While Going Uphill?
Dec 23, 2016
i have an 03 F350 6.0 turbo diesel. Problem im having is a boost problem. on the passenger side, the intake tube keeps popping off the turbo. The Boot ripped on me on a hill so i replaced it with one from the junkyard seeing that it costs so much new. Anywho when i changed the intake tube i did clean it with brake cleaner to clean it and wipe it off. After i did i went for a ride and it just popped off at about 2500 rpm. So i went back thinking maybe i had too many bruskies and recleaned and tightened the clamps on the boot again. Get going down the road going normal again. I gave it a heavy foot to about 3200 and let off it made a sound like fluttering then as soon as i hit it again it blew off. looked at some other forums that said to put hairspray on the boot to seal it. haven't drove it yet just looking for other peoples solutions.
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I am the original owner of a 2003 F250 Super Duty 6.0L. I have had all the required work that has ever needed to be done to it, including replacing the entire wiring harness and some work on the turbo this last September. Over the last few weeks I have noticed it sputtering when going between 45-55MPH up a hill. It only does this when I'm going at a steady speed. It starts fine and accelerates fine, but if I'm going a steady speed up a hill 45-55MPH I notice the sputtering. I've had almost all my work done by the dealership and just had it in last week for this, but they have told me there is nothing wrong, but knowing my truck, I know there is. What could be causing this? There are no check engine lights on or anything.
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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I have an '03 powerstroke 6.0, 4 inch turbo back exhaust. truck had lost boost and would cut in and out if i got on pedal and now a little bit of oil is collecting at tip, could this be because of bad turbo seals? And could the turbo still be alright? Another thing, I'm losing coolant, and I have noticed when I took the EGR out and cleaned it, the valve itself was the powdery black carbon, the cooler was wet, and I know it's not supposed to be like that. I am not thinking head gaskets yet, cause if it had a blown head gasket, I wouldn't be able to drive it. It is currently sitting, and I'm just trying to fix it. Would I be able to fix the turbo seals myself?
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What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
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I have a 2006 F550 mini bus, that I just had the head studs done, egr delete and air intake changed. Last night we took it out for a run to test it since we just installed a new fan clutch. We can here the fan kicking on and off. The problem is, we drove it say 60 miles, up and down a mountain, had no issues. We got out and ate for about an hour, and then drove it back the same way. This time on a slight upgrade my check gauges came on, and I seen the temp rising. I let off the fuel, and it dropped back down. So the rest of the way home I was easy on the fuel and made it back with out heating up again.
Today, we took it for a ride and at idle before we left the ECT was 172, and EOT 170, as we drove I watched the temps. Climbing up a fairly steep mountain, we were doing about 65mph, for about a 5 mile climb. During the climb my ECT was 201 and EOT 226, at the hottest point it was ECT 204 and the EOT was 226.
I am assuming it could be a possible water pump and or oil cooler. Reason I am thinking the water pump, is because after it over heated, I noticed if I let off the fuel quick after running I would hear a noise like a puffing sound. It was the coolant shooting out of the degas bottle. It did this several times when letting off the fuel quick, which I think was the pump was allowing the coolant to be pushed back in from the heat.
I already ordered a new pump, which if bad could also cause the oil not to cool as the pump is not pushing enough coolant? (Also I only lose coolant if it gets to hot)...
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Recently I have noticed my psi reading on my tuner hovers around .25 to .35 in the morning right when I start my truck. Normally it reads zero or is in the negatives. After driving around and stopping at red lights it will hover between .80 and 1.25. Now, I know that not a lot but its not what it normally reads.
Last week I went off road and my exhaust took a hit and loosened up and caused a small leak near the rear axle. I unbolted it and for the most part fixed the leak minus some alit air flow coming from the slits in the pipe. I'm not getting any codes and haven't noticed any decrease in performance. It does however seam to slow down quicker when I let off the throttle. I'm running an SCT X4 with dpf and erg delete and have a S&B CAI.
I called a performance exhaust shop and the tech said a small leak shouldn't cause any issue like that especially because its so far back. Another respectable vendor told me it might be that my vein are stick.
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after my DPF delete and fl0-pro 5" install, i've noticed a slight decrease in lower rpm boost. with the tune i have i can still get it wound up, but it takes a little "gettin on it" to get there. i miss the little bit of boost i had from stop lights and what not, or even cruising at 50 with a slight increase in fuel. i don't want to have to have it downshift in order to spool the turbo to get me that slight uptick in power.
i've heard differing opinions - "stock turbos need the 4" for more backpressure" ; "5 inches is great, b/c you could always use a couple extra inches" ; "there's no difference between the two, but you don't NEED a 5 inch until you're at 1k bhp".
i've got the 5" setup on there... that's that. how can i increase the reaction of the turbos? i've read about a wastegate adjustment (tightening), but not sure i'm ready to undertake that in the driveway, and i don't have access to a lift. nor am i sure this will correct my "issue." (i quoted it, b/c it's not really an issue, it's just a personal preference that i'm wanting to adjust to make myself a little more happy with the performance of the truck)
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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I have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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I was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
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I've got an 05 EX 4x4 150k miles. Stock tune, EGR delete only ....
Driving along and everything was good plenty of boost no power issues. Got off the freeway and truck just stopped making boost. So I messed with it for a couple days. Cousin with a Mac scanner flaked on me so I was stuck using Edge gauge cluster and trying to trouble shoot.
NO CODES, No smoke, EGT's rise and truck seems like it is lean. Boost has fluctuated between 4psi to 11 psi. What should MAF be at idle?
ICP has been consistent with whatever boost levels were being made.
FICM 47.5
New MAP tube/nipple cleaned
New MAF
Clean Air filter
New fuel filters
VGT actuates
Accel ped in spec
Turbo spins free
New hot side CAC boots
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Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
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My question may be unique -- I cannot find anything about this -- at an idle, what should the boost read? Sunday at WOT I saw 28.76 -- but at idle it generally reads 0.1-0.4 -- bounces around a little -- but is that about right? Also, at WOT and 28+ boost what should the VGT read? I really am trying to sort out what this information is telling me -- not is that normal or average but what is ideal and what represents a red flag -- cut the truck off you have a problem kind of numbers.
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The truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
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Some people say it's normal to lose some boost after the delete, some say it's not and you need a tuner. Before the delete, I could regularly see around 28-29 psi on the factory gauge if I jumped on it. Now, I see about a max of 20-21. I have no leaks that I can find and the truck runs just as it did before. I still have my EGR plugged in laying on top of the engine and don't have a check engine light-yet. Is there a definitive answer as to how to fix this or is it really considered normal to lose that much boost after a delete? I don't really want a tuner because I'm not looking to add HP, but if that's what it takes, then I need to save up. I also read somewhere it can depend on the strategy.
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Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
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On my monitor, when I really get on it, I see the boost come up nicely and then when it gets to about 22 -23 lbs, it drops to zero on my monitor display, but the engine does not seem to falter in anyway. Why or what I might do about it?
I find it very annoying and do not believe it should be doing so, thus figure it might be causing some other problems or so. ..? I hear others talking about seeing 24 and up boost being displayed... why not me?
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0. Lately it seems like the motor just doesn't have the boost it should. Funny thing is that the boost reading through the edge cts seems to be right. Under full acceleration it will pull 27 psi boost and 3900+ ICP pressure. No codes are being thrown. It just doesn't "feel" right (seat of the pants) and it also sounds louder but I don't known this for sure.
Where does the CTS get its boost reading from? The truck has new boots on the hot side from riffraff. Anything I can check?
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