Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Hard Start And Will Shut Off When Coming To A Stop
Nov 24, 2016
I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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2003 Excursiom 4x4 Limited
My first Diesel. Runs and drives great. Torque Pro app only showed coolant temp at 188. Would not show oil temp. Hard to cold start. New injectors. Has a programmer. He is asking 12K. It has 209K miles.
It belongs to a friend of mine and he rarely drives it. It stays under a cover most of the time.
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Truck has performed flawlessly during that time period. Early build 2003 CC SB 4wd King Ranch truck 94,000 miles I purchased new in 2003. Good batteries. Bone stock except for superchips tune.
First sign of trouble: Two weeks ago CEL came on, P2285 Injector Control Pressure Circuit Low, as soon as truck was started after sitting unused for about a month. Bought new sensor, haven't installed it yet (early model sensor located under turbo on rear of engine and a real pain to change). Truck still started fine and ran fine. Dreading the ICP sensor install, I continued to drive the truck. Drove truck 5 miles to get tractor fuel. Got fuel, started truck and drove away. Got 200ft and truck died. I changed secondary filter under hood, turned key on and let pump cycle about 4 times. Truck started. Cleared codes. No longer have CEL. Drove 5 miles home, shut truck off and no start.
Troubleshooting: Changed primary filter under truck. Really cruddy (probably 80,000 mi on it). I cleaned inside filter housing thoroughly. I had to cycle pump KOEO about 6 times before it started. Shut off and immediately tried to start. No start. Ran pump KOEO about 30 seconds. Started. Shut off and same result. I then drove truck 4 miles driving both normal and WOT. No problems, no smoke, no CEL, ran perfectly normal. Shut off, no start until cycling pump KOEO for about 30 seconds. No codes set.
I then removed cap from secondary filter and checked for trash. Fuel and bowl were clean. I did notice fuel drained completely from bowl in about 5 minutes. I reinstalled filter and put pressure gauge on housing.
Fuel pressure readings: KOEO 55psi after about 3 seconds. Engine running 55psi. Turn key off and pressure instantly drops to 25psi, then bleeds off to zero over about a 3 minute time period. Does this seem normal?
Questions: Could the clogged fuel filters cause the p2285 code to set? Could the HPOP system have developed a leak and cause these symptoms?
Could an injector leak cause these symptoms and engine still run ok?
Action Plan: Install new ICP sensor. Do bubble test to check for injector compression leak. Install Blue Spring mod. Waiting on parts. Possibly buy scanner which will read HPOP output etc. Any recommendations here?
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My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
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03 6.0 with 90k miles. New heads, all orings , stand pipes, injectors , glow plugs, egr delete , oil cooler and studs . Has sct livewire. Just took the truck to the shop for a hard start issue and misfiring at around 30% throttle driving. It would fire up great in the mornings with some white/blue smoke till warm. But after it was warmed up you shut it off it would fire right back up but very slow to reach proper idle.
But if it set for about an hour it would crank great start but same lazy idle up but now it wouldn't get over 300 rpm before it would die. And do this for 5 or so more times before finally idling up. Then runs pretty good other than the misfire. So he said it's either the hpop ipr or icp. I had him replace all 3 with motorcraft parts. Still the same issue ! Return the truck to stock tune and it doesn't have any power . My pockets are only so deep...
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Having that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
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What could be making the strange pumping sound coming from under my hood after I shut off the truck?? It sounds like a small compressor or pump running.
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I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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Swapped a new oil cooler and welded Egr shut. Truck ran fine the first 3-4 times I started it except for exhaust leak at the y-pipe/turbo connection. Tried to start it today and it started then ran real rough, blowing whit smoke. Now it will not start at all and blows whit smoke. The only codes I'm getting are egr codes that I've always had due to having the 05 and up intake elbow and the egr turned off via sct. What could be the issue?
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I brought my truck to ford because I thought I was having transmission issues, but they are telling me that my transmission is fine, that I need to replace my number 8 injector. None of these symptoms sound like injector issues:
-Shifting from park to reverse, takes a couple seconds to shift, then jumps.
-Coming to a very slow stop, truck is a little jumpy at around 2-3 mph
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Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
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Shortly after i bought the truck and started driving it home, it shut down on me while coming up a mountain on the interstate. I had probably drove it about 10-15 miles and about 20-30 minutes of running after being dead cold. The temp gauge was about in the middle and it would not start up again until about an hour and a half later, which I was able to drive it home another 20 miles away.
There are no codes, which a mechanic told me it is probably an intermittent problem then. He then told me it would either be the cps, ipr or fuel pump. I have changed the cps and since then have not been able to replicate the problem but I have also not been able to get the engine up to temp because of the recent weather being so cold. I want to test the truck and see if I can get it to stall again but what this could be or what I can do to test the truck?
The truck is a 2003 f250 7.3 4x4 automatic, short bed, crew cab, with 320k miles.
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Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
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I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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I bought my 04 6.0 from my parents a few years back and had it gone through as soon as I bought it. I got it studded, a new hpop, new oil cooler, 8 new Alliant injectors, and an sct livewire. A few months later my oil temp kept getting high and eventually it caused an injector to go out. Took it back to the guy who originally did the work and he warrantied it.
He said the oil cooler got clogged up on the coolant side. Replaced an injector and the oil cooler and it ran for another couple months before doing the same thing again. Had the oil cooler and injector replaced again and it ran fine until the number 7 injector went out and I had to replace it myself since the guy who was doing the work on my truck decided to pack up his shop and leave basically overnight.
When I got under the valve cover I noticed that the number 7 injector pigtail was different colors than the other injectors so I'm not sure what kind of work had been done to it after all, if he'd been mixing injectors or what, all I know is what he told me he had done. The truck currently has 157k on it. whenever I go to start it my injection oil pressure spikes to anywhere from 1600-1800 and the truck attempts to run but then the truck falls on it's face and the injection pressure will not get above 350-400 for about 10 to 20 seconds of cranking.
Then the oil pressure hand on my dash moves and the injection pressure goes up again and the truck cranks. After the truck is running it has a miss that most of the time goes away as the truck warms up. Im starting to believe that maybe the hoop is going out again but I'm unsure. I'm a heavy diesel mechanic so the huei injection system isn't my forte, but I do have access to just about any tool needed.
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 and I am having some issues with a hesitation and lose of power. The hesitation is worse when under load and other times is not so bad. Also it is non existent at higher RPMs (2500 and up). I changed the egr valve 2 months ago and it seemed to fix the issue (95%) but now it is running bad again. I used Hot Shot oil additive 2,500 miles ago and I changed the fuel filters and changed to 5w 40 Rotella synthetic oil, nothing has changed. I had the FICM changed a year ago with new software updates, still didn't fix it 100%.
Now I am having a "hard" start issue. It takes a bit for the truck to turn over. My batteries are 12 months old and I just replaced the alternator so I am not sure how to proceed.
I did just buy a Scangauge II and I am still figuring out how to use it. It says there is no codes.
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