Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 F350 - Rough Idle / Cylinder 4 And 5 Contribution Balance Code
Apr 17, 2016
2003 f350 dually. Fully bulletproofed about 10k miles ago. Everything was running great for about 5k miles. A friend of mine got stuck and I went to pull him out. Got him out but got on it really hard...never overheated or anything.
Next day truck throws a cyLinder 5 contribution balance code. Ran ok but idled rough. Pulled injector and put a used one from a running truck in it. Code went away and runing fine for a few weeks. Took a long trip from FL to Texas, and on the way home same code occurred but idle was not as bad. I would clear the code and it would be fine for a few hundred miles, then would show up again. Made it home, still was driving around town a little with the code only showing sometimes. A couple blocks away from home taking off from a stop sign lost all power and motor shut off. Turned out the Injector o ring blew and hydrolocked the motor.
So now, ordered all new 155cc30% injectors , 58v ficm and new oem injector harness. Installed and Drove the truck to Illinois. After about 700 miles I noticed a little rough idle and had a cylinder 4 cont code. Made to Illinois and back to fl. At fl line I had cyld. 4 and 5 codes now. Cleared and cyld 4 was gone but 5 stayed. Got home and balance test showed 4 and 5 bad injectors. Sent them off to be fixed just got them back in. Truck started fine, smooth idle, ran for about 10 miles and cyld 5 code come back and so does the rough idle. I'm at a loss now.
Will be doing compression test tomorrow. Other than a rough idle truck runs flawless, will roast the tires and pull anything hooked to it. No hot starts, no symptoms of anything else. Possibly a problem with the oil rail feed on that cylinder? Main ficm harness? Bent pushrod?
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I have an 03 ex with 03 motor. I use torque pro all the time and periodically check for any codes. Well, I got P0278 but no check engine light. It does seem to start a little different than our 05 with 04 motor. It sounds like it just doesn't fire right away or like it turns over and then decides to start. It doesn't make the destinctive sound at the end of cranking when it starts. I hope that makes since. I could tell it sounded different, that is why I checked for any codes. It also seems to run just fine down the road and at idle. Where to start or what to look for?
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I have an 04 f350 with an 03 6.0 motor. Truck started running very rough a two weeks ago. Checked codes and found p0274 and p0275. Both codes are for cylinder 5. I replaced #5 injector and truck ran like normal for a few days then began to miss again when operating temperature hits about 187+. It will show code p0275 once hot as it misses. When cold runs fine, starts fine. No smoke. Could I have put In a bad injector? It was purchased from AutoZone...
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I have a 2004 F250 with a powerstroke 6.0. I have done the egt delete and oil cooler upgrade. Last weekend I did head gaskets, arp studs, new heads, injector o rings, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, glow plugs, glow plug harnesses, water pump, and exhaust gaskets. After everything was done and truck was primed and started it ran really rough. I drove it a little to possibly purge any air and it still ran rough and I got a code p0275 for cylinder 5 contribution. I removed valve cover and oil rail and swapped injector 3 and 5. 5 was covered in fuel. After reinstalling oil rail I cranked engine over and saw cylinder 5 intake valves were not moving. Removed rail and rockers. Pulled push rod and it was bent. Installed new push rod a and reassembled. Crank engine over to verify all rockers were moving. Reinstalled valve cover and started truck. Truck ran great. Cleared codes and test drove. After test drive truck sounded like it was missing so I checked the codes again and p0275 was back! I know at this point I need to check the harness but any other possibilies you may know of? FICM voltage it good at 48v and oil pressure reads good as well.
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#2 contribution/glow plug/injector code ????? Harness looks good. What's the malfunction?? Runs rough. Never seen those 3 codes together.
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I have a code for #6 low contribution and a thumping noise out the exhaust. When I turn number 6 injector off the popping/ thumping goes away. Truck is straight piped and deleted. It started doing this after getting on it hard to get on the high way. Sounds like beating an empty pop bottle on something
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My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
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Truck all of the sudden out of no where started to shake at idle my first thought was that it is a miss. Then on hard acceleration blows black smoke with NO tune on at the time, plugged reader in and got code P0278 cylinder 6 contribution/balance. I'm assuming it is a dirty nozzle on the injector. Shake/miss clears out at about 900-1000 rpm. Truck as 247k on it. 50k on injectors. Has ported and o ringed heads, studded, and fully deleted, with bullet proof ficm. Would my assumption be correct?
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My truck is a 2005 f350 6.0, all stock except for an egr delete and 4 inch cat back exhaust. I recently did an oil cooler replacement and egr delete, resealed all 8 injectors, and fixed some wire chaffing at the FICM. it's running great with the exception of idling. It seems like it's idling low but the gauge stays at 750. If I hit the high idle switch, it does fine. Red lights are stressful because it shakes and sounds like it's going to die but never does. I'm posting screenshots of my Torque pro.
I have a SC2 as well but I honestly like Torque better so that's what I use most. I know my ICP is low, but 8 don't know why. No oil in the connector, and no change when I unplug it. The ICP sensor may be a month old with 1000 miles on it. This was taken at a hot startup, sitting in park. When i say hot, I mean I had driven about 60 miles. This is sitting still in drive. ICP voltage finally climbs over 1.0 when i get going about 15mph at around 1250 rpm. The second pic the ICPV is actually higher than normal. It usually stays at .8 until I give it gas.
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A while back my 05' f350 6.0 was having rough starts and an erratic idle. It died coming up to a stop sign it started back up after 2 cranks and then it did that same on the way home. The next day leaving work it wouldn't start. I knew i had a couple injectors on the way out so i decided it was time to replace all 8 upon tearing it down i noticed my oil cooler was leaking so i figured it was time to rebuild that and finally do the egr delete that i had been wanting to do. well i put it all back together and got a no start.
The dash gauge on my oil pressure is reading normal when i cranked it so i went and bought a scangauge2 to read the icp its hitting 1500psi when i crank it. The ipr% is reading good. But my ficm main power is at 26v with the key on then it drop to 14v while cranking and eventually down to about 9v. Its never at the 48v that its suppose to be at. The scan gauge is also showing that my ficm sync=0. Would the sync be showing 0 since the ficm is bad? My batteries are fully charged and i have both of them on the charger while I am cranking it.
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L 323,000 miles auto trans. I have removed my tuner just to make sure that it was not the issue. The truck will run fine then all of a sudden the idle will rise then fall or shudder or go up and down and sometimes it will just Die but it always restarts. No trouble lights at all. I am not sure what is causing the issue?
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my excursion just started hard and had rough idle one morning then code P0270 - injector, FICM or wires between are the logical choices I think.
started with wires - all connections good at FICM and injectors (applied dielectric silicone) - checked all 4 wires from injector connector pins for resistance with omh meter from X-1 connector. no change
so next is FICM. couple years back sent to ed for repair. if I remember right it was power supply side only so the "brain" side might have gone? good news is could I get a loaner FICM off fellow 6.0 and installed (can't confirm condition of loaner - trucks been parked a while) same code same cylinder - no change.
I read somewhere possibly swapping two injectors (say 2 and 4?) and see if the code follows the injector or stays with the cylinder, further test for a bad FICM
Is that necessary? I would hate buy and replace the #4 injector just to put it back together to find no change then forking over 6 7 hundred more on a new FICM.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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I have an early 99 F-350 with 268K miles. It is bone stock right down to the factory exhaust. A couple months ago I started have a rough idle and surging while driving problem. I never got a check engine light but I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and pulled the following codes: P1690 (wastegate solenoid), P0381 (glow plug circuit malfunction), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault.
I did some research and everything I read said it was most likely the CPS. So I changed the CPS. The truck ran fine for for a few days but then it started acting up again occasionally. I noticed that most of the time when it acted up was at start up when the engine was cold and I also figured out that if I shut the truck off and re-started it (sometimes I had to do it 2 or 3 times) it would clear up and run normal.
A buddy of mine that has a 2000 F-250 said he had a similar problem with his truck and it ended up being the ICP sensor. We switched his ICP with mine and I changed my oil at the same time (because it was due for an oil change). My truck ran flawless for over 2-weeks (over 200 miles) so I put a new ICP in my truck. Note: my buddy did not experience any problems with his truck with my ICP in it.
I've put about 700 miles on the new IPR and the truck has started to act up again. Once again shutting the truck off & re-starting it will clear it up and still no check engine light. I took it to a local "diesel specialty shop" while it was running rough and they hooked it to their scanner and got P1280 (Inj. Control Pressure Low), P1690 (Wastegate Solenoid Fault), P0381 (Glow Plug Indicator), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution / Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution / Balance Fault.
They never did anything other than hook it to a machine & check the codes but their diagnosis is my High Pressure Oil Pump is going bad and my #3 and #8 injectors are going bad. They recommended I let them replace all 8 injectors and the High Pressure Oil Pump. The problem I have is they can't give me a REASONABLE explanation as to why re-starting the truck a few times clears up the problem.
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So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.
When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.
Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.
I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.
The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code....
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I'm normally in the 7.3 forum, but a friend has a 2003 6.0 with a P2285. I get the impression that on the 03 and early 04 models, this code is nearly always a failed ICP sensor or the wiring leading to it. It also has a cylinder 5 misfire code, but I suspect that's a separate issue. I had the truck hooked up and the ICP held pretty much steady at 870 psi. I didn't look at ICP voltage, but I'm willing to bet it was probably 0v and the pressure reading was inferred and not actual.
Will a failed ICP sensor also cause the truck to have decreased power? Any tips to make the sensor easier to change, like a certain socket/ratchet combination or anything? Is it easier from the top, or bottom? I do have a lift . . .
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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For the last couple months I've been messing with a P1118 code. Started a few months ago when I noticed my fuel mileage was down 1-2MPG. Also sometimes a rough seeming idle (hard to tell with the diesel). Then it threw a P1118, so I replaced the temp sensor under the turbo. The code went away for a while then came back, fuel mileage didn't change. So I replaced the temp sensor in the air filter box.
The code went away AND my fuel mileage seems to have come back to normal. Now, code thrown again. Search on P1118 hasn't been super useful. Seems like replacing the sensor under the turbo is the trick. Also seems to come up in combination with a bunch of other codes with battery problems. I suppose it's possible I have some sort of electrical gremlin. It throws the code on startup and stays on until I shut it off. Doesn't come on every time, is off more often than on.
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2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
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My 03 F350 lost the Brake Lights, and Code B1483 came up, which is the Brake Light Switch. Switch was replaced with new switch, with no change. The new switch was tested, and is working. The mechanic even replaced all the bulbs, which did nothing. The tail lights and turn signals work fine, just no brake lights. The mechanic even called the Ford Dealer in Boise, ID, and their service dept had no clue. What is everyone missing on this issue?
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