Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 F350 - Relay Noise Under Dash
Nov 7, 2010
I have a 03 6L Ford F350 and for the most part trouble free. Any way lately I have been getting a clicking noise that sounds like a relay clicking under my dash when my truck is running even when its just idling...
I don't always get it but it has become more common that last few weeks. So I stuck my head under the dash and it sounds like it coming from that little black box's that is attached at the base of the gas pedal ? Could be coming from fuse box cause that what i was going to go after but doesn't sound like it, SO what is the little back box for on base of gas pedal?
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I have a late 03 f350 and see some relay boxes under the hood drivers side rear bolted to the fender, looking for a diagram of what those relays do,also one box has a 10a fuse. Also any have a fusebox breakdown for same truck in cab under steering with 4 plastic cover screws?
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Does Delayed Accessory Relay 306 control radio on an 02 F-350?
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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2001 F-350, 7.3L,
Has done this off & on for a few years and am tired of it! Noise is kind of a buzzing that seems to come from the flasher/turn signal relay. It stops buzzing when you turn on a turn signal, activate the flashers, or lift up on the shifter arm(?). Had to drive home yesterday with the flashers on! So I see from researching that it may actually be the multi-funtion switch on the steering column. So I removed that, cleaned up all the contacts, and put it back on and the buzzing did not go away.
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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I have a early build 2003 f350 6.0. It will not start. Readings are good. ficm 48 to 48.5, synced, icp volts .30, icp climbs above 1200 psi, bat 13 to 13.5, ipr 14.8 to 40, fuel pressure 82 psi during crank..... will not start. Last week tore it down and replaced the tube of the hpop, found a leak in map hose and cleaned the turbo (vanes, ring). Ran ok for a week... shut it off and my sons baseball practice and will not start.... towed it back 2 days ago and nothing..... just cranks... I am at a loss. Another question would be where do i air test the hpo system on this truck.... ICP and IPR are in the back of the motor and hard to get to. I have read there is a way to do it under the valve covers.... not sure.
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I have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
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2011 F350 diesel with 10,000 miles. I have been experiencing problems with the truck loosing power, making rough running noise (pinging like an older diesel), and vibrating. As though the motor is bogging down. It usually occurs on small inclines or hills with the truck in higher gears and low rpms. It will also occur running on flat ground 65-70 mph. Had it occur once while turning the truck around in 1st gear and low rpms. Depressing the accelerator will bring the truck out of it.
This problem occurs randomly sometimes a couple of times a week to not at all. Took to dealer and they found no codes and of couse it didn't do it on the hour long test drive I took the mechanic on. However they did say they had two other owners come in with the same complaints, but could not get trucks to repeat the issue. Problem usually occurs in the hotter part of the day, maybe just coincidence. I had seen similar posts with this problem but no conclusions.
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Ive changed all relays underhood cause i could not find info on which relay is which, checked all fuses under dash. Checked to make sure up stream on 4x4 fuse position has power. And i checked for power at 2 wire on transcase no power at 2 wire, i am also finding no power at back of dashswitch.. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows complete esof schematic
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2003 f350 6.0. Ran last night and wont start today. Monitor says 85 psi pressure, should be atleast 500 to start. Could it be the IPR?
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03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?
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ICP and IRP changed both fuel filtrs and Blue spring put in. HPOP Pressure is over 1600PSI when cranking with 2.5 to 4 volts.
Will try to run but acts like not getting enough fuel. If I loosen the lines off the upper filter housing lots of fuel runs out. Lots of smoke when cranking also.
FICM volts are 48.5.
Reading with Scan Gauge 2.
The truck is a 2003 F350 DRW Stock 6.0 with 433000 on the odometer.
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I have a 03 350 with a 6.0 . The truck starts fine in the morning and runs great all day as long as you don't shut it off. It's not going to start until the morning. It will crank over fine, the fuel pump seems to be working, its like there is no power to the injectors. I don't have a wiring diagram so not sure which relays are for injectors. Could the ficm be causing it? Is there a site where I can download a fuel sys schematic ?
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So I'm having a problem with my truck revving up out of no where. Happens more when I'm driving. It only shoots up a little bit but sometimes goes up 1000 more rmps. Happens for a quick second then stops and does it again. I've had the ckp replaced and it has an egr delete. Other than that it's stock. I got home and let it idle for a minute. The rpms fluttered up and down in small increments and almost stalled out. What is causing this?
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Just purchased a 2003 F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel w/ 192,000 miles. This truck will be used exclusively for pulling my 36', 8,000lbs travel trailer. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost as my daily driver. The 2003 was purchased from a used dealer in Texas and is in immaculate condition and was definitely not a work truck. It was a 55 degree day and the truck was inside their building when I picked it up. No starting issues then and drove it the 3 hour 70-75mph trip home, with 2 stops on the way (wife was along) with no issues. Started quick and ran like a champ. The next morning it was 32 degrees outside and it would not start. I cycled the key on & off several times prior to starting and still no start. Plugged the heater in and 1 hour later it fired up. I have noticed since that if the outdoor temperature is below 55 degrees, it will not start without being plugged in. When plugged in, it starts easy, no smoke, purrs like a tiger at idle and runs great. I Have started on a mental list of things to check.....here goes:
1. The dealer stated he just changed the oil & filter. Can't rely on this 100 percent so I plan to put new 15W40 oil and filter in. Oklahoma summers are pretty warm.
2. Check the FICM for 48 voltage output.
3. The glow plug indicator on the dash is working. The colder it is outside, the longer it stays on. If the indicator is working, is this an indicator that the glow plug relay is working? Anyway....plan to check this relay.
4. Pull one or two glow plugs, ones easy to get to, to verify their function.
5. Check both batteries....I assume they will have to be disconnected from one another before doing this.
I have been working on gasoline engines for 40 years and no stranger to busted knuckles & dirty fingernails.....just new to diesel engines. I am impressed however with their construction and method of operating.
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My truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
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I've got a 2011 F350 Lariat crew cab and when i get up to 75 mph with a cross wind, there is a whistling noise. it sounds like a turbulent whistle as if its blowing across the ribbed portion down by the wipers. I tried to get audio but for some reason my phone wont pick up the noise, but its extremely loud at times. Sometimes it will wake up the kids if they're napping in the back seat.
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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I have a 2003 F 350 Crewcab 6.0 liter SD. I was preparing my truck for the first haul of the Summer. I noticed that my batteries were on their way out after 2 years old. I replaced them and noticed I had an intermittent battery light coming on/off on/off. It seemed like only at lower RPMs. So the day of my trip, I ended up changing out the alternator.
The trip went fine, however, I noticed that pesky battery light came on and then off a few times. I also got a hot plastic type smell from the front of my truck.....you know that hot plastic smell Anyway, I got home just fine. Via Torque Pro, my battery volts were reading 12.2ish when my battery light came on, but then would quickly return to 13.9.
Since I"ve been home, I have read about fixing the grounding points for our trucks and also adding a second ground wire and a second hot wire from battery to battery. I can not find exactly where the ground's lead to. I still have that fricking battery light coming on .....more often that not. How to chase this problem.
First I need to find out where the ground wires go to. My volts of recent have been reading 11.5-12ish when the truck is running and the friggin battery light is on. I did search and found a few links to this problem, but where to find the grounding points.
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