I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
View 2 RepliesI don't seem to be able to get my trailer brakes to activate to we're I feel the working as the brakes are applied. I like the trailer to come on sooner and feel the trailer braking a bit more than the truck. I try the slide control and I have to go just about 3/4 of the way to get any braking on trailer. I had same with the 2011 and now the 2013. This a new trailer as was the previous trailer and the braking was the same. Trailer brakes are adjusted. I have it set on 10 as I did on the other truck. The other truck was 2011 and a trailer was a 2012 both new, now this set up is a 2013 trailer and 2013 truck and no difference in the two braking on the trailers. Are they all like that? I have installed brake controllers in my trucks and never had an issue not having enough adjustment for the trailer.
View 14 RepliesAdding a third axle to my dual axle 5th wheel toyhauler... was told I may need a different brake controller by someone on a different forum.
At first I thought they were talking about the one in the truck but I would guess the truck brake controller can handle atleast three axles worth of brakes. Now I am wondering if I have another "control box" on the camper somwhere.
I see many people pulling 3 axle trailers and I would assume you have brakes on all 3 axles. Am I good to assume the stock Ford brake controller can handle 3 axles with brakes on all of them ??
Does a trailer/toyhauler/camper have another "control box" somwhere that regulates the brakes as well ??
My 03 F350 lost the Brake Lights, and Code B1483 came up, which is the Brake Light Switch. Switch was replaced with new switch, with no change. The new switch was tested, and is working. The mechanic even replaced all the bulbs, which did nothing. The tail lights and turn signals work fine, just no brake lights. The mechanic even called the Ford Dealer in Boise, ID, and their service dept had no clue. What is everyone missing on this issue?
View 14 RepliesI recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
View 14 RepliesI'm having some electronic problem with my 350. I parked it and took both batteries out for about a week. I put 2 brand new ones in and hooked them up truck won't start. So I turned key on and left on and the fault that comes up is the "trailer brake module fault" also the abs light, parking brake light & passenger airbag lights are on. Sometimes if I leave key on long enough the lights go away and I can start the truck. But it shuts down during idle. I unplugged the tbc (indash) and the #22 fuse under hood and #31# on passenger side. Still showing the fault. I'm not being allowed to start the truck. I used my tuner and found one code (P0884 tcm power input intermediate)..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 F-350 CCSB 4x4 w/ 20" Wheels and the electronic locker. I have had for some time a noise when I go over small bumps (pulling into garage up a 1" lip) at slow speeds. It sounds/feels like side to side movement. I have traced this down to what sounds like looseness inside the rear differential. To recreate, I lay down and shove hard on the spare tire. This pushes the truck side to side. I can hear a clank/clunk at both wheels around the brake area.
View 14 RepliesI read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
I have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
View 2 RepliesMy Airlift wireless will not inflate my airbags-compressor does not run. It was working - only used it once since it was installed 2 months ago. Tried it this week- no joy. I get the error BL OC,(bloc) then sometimes FA IL. I called Airlift Friday and the tech said it sound like compressor might be bad so I should get 12 volts to the compressor and see if it runs. I did that and compressor runs fine. I also checked to be sure I have 12 volts going into the wire loom and I do.
When I try to inflate the using wireless controller, the manifold clicks but there is no voltage going to the compressor. Sounds like there is a breakdown within or between the receiver and/or manifold. I do see the wireless controller sending a signal but nothing happens except on click in the manifold. I guess I will have to wait until Monday to call again. It frustrating since it's Saturday when I am able to work on it but can't get tech support.
I have a early build 2003 f350 6.0. It will not start. Readings are good. ficm 48 to 48.5, synced, icp volts .30, icp climbs above 1200 psi, bat 13 to 13.5, ipr 14.8 to 40, fuel pressure 82 psi during crank..... will not start. Last week tore it down and replaced the tube of the hpop, found a leak in map hose and cleaned the turbo (vanes, ring). Ran ok for a week... shut it off and my sons baseball practice and will not start.... towed it back 2 days ago and nothing..... just cranks... I am at a loss. Another question would be where do i air test the hpo system on this truck.... ICP and IPR are in the back of the motor and hard to get to. I have read there is a way to do it under the valve covers.... not sure.
View 14 RepliesJust over 7000 miles all of a sudden I got this loud grinding noise in the rear end like a brake locked up. Pulled into a parking lot. Don't think it's brakes. Put the truck in reverse it got even louder for a second then it quieted down after that. Naturally this happened on a Saturday.
View 6 Replies2003 f350 6.0. Ran last night and wont start today. Monitor says 85 psi pressure, should be atleast 500 to start. Could it be the IPR?
View 4 Replies03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?
ICP and IRP changed both fuel filtrs and Blue spring put in. HPOP Pressure is over 1600PSI when cranking with 2.5 to 4 volts.
Will try to run but acts like not getting enough fuel. If I loosen the lines off the upper filter housing lots of fuel runs out. Lots of smoke when cranking also.
FICM volts are 48.5.
Reading with Scan Gauge 2.
The truck is a 2003 F350 DRW Stock 6.0 with 433000 on the odometer.
I have a 03 350 with a 6.0 . The truck starts fine in the morning and runs great all day as long as you don't shut it off. It's not going to start until the morning. It will crank over fine, the fuel pump seems to be working, its like there is no power to the injectors. I don't have a wiring diagram so not sure which relays are for injectors. Could the ficm be causing it? Is there a site where I can download a fuel sys schematic ?
View 4 RepliesSo I'm having a problem with my truck revving up out of no where. Happens more when I'm driving. It only shoots up a little bit but sometimes goes up 1000 more rmps. Happens for a quick second then stops and does it again. I've had the ckp replaced and it has an egr delete. Other than that it's stock. I got home and let it idle for a minute. The rpms fluttered up and down in small increments and almost stalled out. What is causing this?
View 4 RepliesJust purchased a 2003 F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel w/ 192,000 miles. This truck will be used exclusively for pulling my 36', 8,000lbs travel trailer. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost as my daily driver. The 2003 was purchased from a used dealer in Texas and is in immaculate condition and was definitely not a work truck. It was a 55 degree day and the truck was inside their building when I picked it up. No starting issues then and drove it the 3 hour 70-75mph trip home, with 2 stops on the way (wife was along) with no issues. Started quick and ran like a champ. The next morning it was 32 degrees outside and it would not start. I cycled the key on & off several times prior to starting and still no start. Plugged the heater in and 1 hour later it fired up. I have noticed since that if the outdoor temperature is below 55 degrees, it will not start without being plugged in. When plugged in, it starts easy, no smoke, purrs like a tiger at idle and runs great. I Have started on a mental list of things to check.....here goes:
1. The dealer stated he just changed the oil & filter. Can't rely on this 100 percent so I plan to put new 15W40 oil and filter in. Oklahoma summers are pretty warm.
2. Check the FICM for 48 voltage output.
3. The glow plug indicator on the dash is working. The colder it is outside, the longer it stays on. If the indicator is working, is this an indicator that the glow plug relay is working? Anyway....plan to check this relay.
4. Pull one or two glow plugs, ones easy to get to, to verify their function.
5. Check both batteries....I assume they will have to be disconnected from one another before doing this.
I have been working on gasoline engines for 40 years and no stranger to busted knuckles & dirty fingernails.....just new to diesel engines. I am impressed however with their construction and method of operating.
A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?