Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 F250 - A/C Compressor Intermittent Working
May 21, 2017
I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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Finally registered on this site after hearing good things from others who are currently on here. Been a 6.0 PSD owner since buying the truck since new in 2003-F250 CCSB. I have done regular maintenance on it and have had a good run until recently. Everything is stock on the motor and currently has 229 000 miles.
I will describe my current problem: I have borrowed my brother's tablet and have the following numbers from the Torque pro app. While trying to accelerate it now has a hesitation and seems to not have the power.
At idle: 630 psi HPOP, 24 % IPR, 47 volts FICM, ICP volts .1
Trying to accelerate on at highway speeds: 1230 psi HPOP, 83% IPR, 47 volts FICM, ICP volts 2.6
Also, sometimes when starting the truck it seems to rev extra high for a split second. My brother says I may have a high pressure leak on the system. What I should check first?
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Is it normal for condensation to form and then leak under the compressor? it stops when the ac is off or the truck. I have a 2004 ford f-250.
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I'm starting to get an intermittent CEL for P2074 ("Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Higher Load"). It first came on Saturday halfway into a 4 hour drive (Not towing, just driving 75mph-80mph on the freeway). I cleared the code and restarted the truck and it immediately came back on. About a half hour later I stopped for fuel, cleared the code, and it stayed off for the rest of the trip.
Got into the truck today and drove it for 10 minutes (driving around town) and it came back on. Cleared the code and restarted the truck, drove it for about a hour and it never came back on. The truck is running and driving just fine.
The truck is a 2011 F-250, all stock (except for a AFE Cold air intake that's been on the truck for a while now). The truck has about 98,000 miles.
From what I've read on other posts, it might just be a mass air flow sensor? Should I just replace that myself, or pay the $100 extended warranty deductible and take it into Ford?
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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I have a 2007 f250 6.0 powerstroke that had an intermittent crank no start problem so I replaced the sti valve on the hpop. Put it back together no start ran a few tests found the FICM had 22 volts replaced that still no start replaced IPR valve because I got a 0 ohm reading from it still no start. I am just about out of patience with it I am going to add some pics of the scanner I am using. I dont know the difference between ICP DSD and ICP PRESS.
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Yesterday I was coming back from town and as I was looking in p/s mirror changing lanes I noticed heavy white smoke. I only noticed this upon decel or coast. Once I rolled back into the throttle the white smoke would dimminish. I'm sure it was coolant from the smell. The truck (04 F250 CC 6.0) is now at the dealer for troubleshooting. I believe it to be a blown head gasket, but wouldn't that make it blow white smoke out the exhaust all the time? Maybe a cracked EGR cooler?
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I have a 2007 f250 and got a check engine code icp circuit intermittent and to what I know icp sensor should be on the valve cover on the passenger side but it's not I bought the truck few months ago could it be that they swapped the engine for an early 6.0 or is there any other place for the icp sensor???
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Started my 2005 f250 powerstroke, idle about 15 min and died like I turned key off. Hooked up scan guage had no flp, fmp or syc ipr and icp was good. Checked ficm relay and fuses and all checked good. Next morning went out and it started flp, fmp, sycall good. Idled about 1 hr and died again same bad readings. Messed with relays and wiring to ficm, it started and died after 2 min. No start again, next morning still no flp, fmp. Went out again in afternoon and everything was good again, I did nothing to it from am to pm, was loading my pistol they shoot horses don't they. I have new batterys, I changed the ficm power card last summer for low fmp. When it is running everything looks and sounds good no miss.
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2012 F250. 15k miles. It's intermittent, speed related, some sort of resonance or harmonic. WoooOOMMmm....woooOoMm, maybe every two seconds at 70 mph. Worn out tires once made a similar sound on a car I owned. This was severe inner wear on the rears. I'm not sure whether it's new or something I just never noticed; it's subtle.
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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I have a 2003 F 350 Crewcab 6.0 liter SD. I was preparing my truck for the first haul of the Summer. I noticed that my batteries were on their way out after 2 years old. I replaced them and noticed I had an intermittent battery light coming on/off on/off. It seemed like only at lower RPMs. So the day of my trip, I ended up changing out the alternator.
The trip went fine, however, I noticed that pesky battery light came on and then off a few times. I also got a hot plastic type smell from the front of my truck.....you know that hot plastic smell Anyway, I got home just fine. Via Torque Pro, my battery volts were reading 12.2ish when my battery light came on, but then would quickly return to 13.9.
Since I"ve been home, I have read about fixing the grounding points for our trucks and also adding a second ground wire and a second hot wire from battery to battery. I can not find exactly where the ground's lead to. I still have that fricking battery light coming on .....more often that not. How to chase this problem.
First I need to find out where the ground wires go to. My volts of recent have been reading 11.5-12ish when the truck is running and the friggin battery light is on. I did search and found a few links to this problem, but where to find the grounding points.
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I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
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The lights are on on the switches themselves, I used the red pass through wire under the hood and then connected it to the Orange w/ blue tracer upfitter wire( I think #4 switch) and it has no power. Changed the fuse and still nothing??
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Ok just bought a '04 F250 Diesel. Loving everything but can't get the keyless code to work. The keypad lights when I touch it and I have retrieved the 5 digit code from the "Bosch" box behind the radio. No deal. Locks don't react at all to the factoy code. Know what? I read that there is a list of all the possible codes. Where can I get that list?
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6.7L ... Just traded in my F250 on a 2011 F350 Lariat. Love it. Period. Except that my windshield wiper sprayers will not work. I don't hear anything when I hit the button. No click or motor running. I can't figure out what fuse it is because I don't have an owners manual.
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I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
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I've done it before but now when I try to enter into the diagnostic mode I'm not getting anything but the typical message center. I'm holding the down arrow button, inserting the key, and then starting the truck. No diagnostic mode. Am I doing something wrong? 2011 F250.
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
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