Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 Excursion Just Cranked But Won't Start
Sep 19, 2015
My truck started and ran as it always did and about a mile it just quit. I tried to restart it and it just cranked but wont start. I bought a scangauge II and did test for the normal no start issues that Ron on you tube mentioned.
Values are as followed engine off
14.8 - IPR 0- SYC
48.0 FMP 28 - ICP - I was thinking that the ICP sensor was a newer 04 model so the values come back a little higher.
While Cranking its as follows
84.7 - IPR 1- SYC
48.0 FMP 46- ICP
Research says that I think if the IPR is bad or unplugged it could show a low value on the ICP..
Also I wanted to check both the IPR and the ICP for connection and to make sure no oil on connectors. See if the IPR screen was cracked or cut.
I have tried to find them and cant so I thought they were behind the turbo so we took that off and no i still cant find it. I have the truck apart and it got late so I have decided to take a break and come back to it tomorrow.
As I said I'm not a diesel mech but I'm pretty good with figuring things out or at least enough to get into trouble.
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Came out of the building center yesterday after about ten minutes, and the van wouldn't start. Just cranked and cranked.
So I fired up Torque Pro and the HPO only got to 156.8psi. The idiot gauge came up to where it should be.
The dipstick looks good. I unhooked the ICP sensor and still no go. Reconnected.....
So I called a tow... after It cooled down.(75*F water) I tried again and got up to 295psi, but still not enough to start.
At this point I know I have recent injectors and updated Plug& pipe on the passenger side, a new IPR, and (another) new STC fitting.
I will get the air to it, and investigate, but at this point,I am leaning towards the Dummy Plug on the drivers side. Or maybe I am just hopeful because the internet says that one can remove the VC on that side fairly easily.....(Van Body)
However I did recently(2K miles/??) have the engine apart to get at the HPOP and STC leak issue I had. In the event of a possible stuck IPR- what would be the symptoms during an air test? No change with power applied? Or should I just remove and inspect?
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This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
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I have a 2005 F550 with a 6.0. Recently I have had issues with a long crank before starting at times but once it started there were no issues driving. Yesterday it started up in the morning, made a few stops then it wouldn't start at all. Cranked strong but no start. Had it towed back, sat for an hour or two now it starts again. Put a gauge on it and all readings are good. Did have a P2285 code which the ICP sensor. I do suspect there could be an issue with the egr cooler as it needs coolant occasionally. Could that have anything to do with the no start? Truck has started fine today. Why start sometimes then not?
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A lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
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My truck will only stay cranked a few seconds then dies, I have a lot of codes popping up! I was told may be the FICM.
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About a month ago my 2005 Ford Excursion 6.0 wouldn't crank. Everything came on fine and there was no sign of a problem. when I tried to crank it nothing happened. I read about the yellow/blue wire on the passenger side and tried that. It cranked right up, and then worked fine with the key. No other problems until today. Same thing happened again. What could this be?
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Owning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
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04 excursion 6.0 auto. New batteries a month ago. New alternator (New Bosch) 6 months ago. Charging system shows 12-13 volts on scan gauge with engine off, 14 with engine running. Drops to 10 or 11 while actually engaging starter.
Every once in a while, often when the engine is hot (in fact I can't ever remember this happening when it's cold) the solenoid clicks like it would when the battery is dead. So far, it does this while it's actually engaging the starter, so I hear the solenoid clicking under the hood while I hear the whir of the starter under the floor board.
Never had this happen before. Not sure what part is trying to tell me it's on its way out? Heat soaked starters are harder to start, or less powerful, or something, right?
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After doing some hunting/wheeling with my son, got back to town and 2003 Excursion w/ ~145K miles would not budge in any gear. No codes with Scangage. After 30 minutes I finally thought to rev it up and it shifted hard into gear, and drove normal home. What do do now?
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I have a 2003 Ford Excursion with the 6.0 diesel. Just driving the truck today and it was putting out black smoke. What could be causing it? No tuner on my truck, just a 4 inch straight pipe and a k&n air intake (bullet proofed, but thats not for performance) ....
2003 ford excursion 6.9, black smoke, why? - YouTube ....
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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Been enjoying driving my truck since repairing the fuel pump. Now in the past 2 days it won't start when hot. Cold starts have never been better. When cranking when hot i get these readings on my scangage 2.
ICP 393 IPR 81 % I know it needs 600 psi to start and the IPR should never be 15% or 85%. I gave it a blast of starting fluid to get it started to get home, and after long crank it started.
I decided to test drive and found that under severe acceleration my ICP would be around 2670 psi and IPR 70%. This is as hard as I could make it accelerate. No hesitation or stubble. I know the 03 has hpop issues but i expected to see lower ICP and a topped out IPR.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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I am a new and very happy 7.3 owner. i have lurking around these forums and decided I didn't want to be a creeper anymore. So onto the fun stuff.
Yesterday my wife was exiting a freeway and the Ex shut off while exiting. once she came to a complete stop she tried turning it on and it would start then immediately shut off. she was able to turn it on and it would run then shut off as she drove across the intersection. once she made it across a good samaritan offered to park it for her. She noticed a little bit of black smoke but she told me that the guy was revving it to keep it running.
Luckily there was family at the mall and she waited for the flat bed to arrive. it sat for about 2 hours and they tried starting it and it would start then die. no more black smoke though. we had it towed to a diesel repair shop and they went to start it today and alas it started right up. they let it idle for 30 minutes and it was good. they test drove it and all good. they ran the codes and got the following:
P1876
B1352
B1483
U1147
One thing I did notice a couple of weeks ago, while driving on the freeway cruising about 65, the Ex surged a little and then ran fine. then another time it surged a little while idling. Some more info on the rig. it has a banks six gun tuner and has a cold air intake and exhaust. And it has a Banks Big Head wastegate. I bought the rig 2 months ago and changed all the filters and fluids.
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I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
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I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
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I have a early build 2003 f350 6.0. It will not start. Readings are good. ficm 48 to 48.5, synced, icp volts .30, icp climbs above 1200 psi, bat 13 to 13.5, ipr 14.8 to 40, fuel pressure 82 psi during crank..... will not start. Last week tore it down and replaced the tube of the hpop, found a leak in map hose and cleaned the turbo (vanes, ring). Ran ok for a week... shut it off and my sons baseball practice and will not start.... towed it back 2 days ago and nothing..... just cranks... I am at a loss. Another question would be where do i air test the hpo system on this truck.... ICP and IPR are in the back of the motor and hard to get to. I have read there is a way to do it under the valve covers.... not sure.
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I got a 2003 6.0 powerstroke cranks but wont start once it gets hot let it sit for a couple of hours and it fires right up already replaced high pressure pump no leaks visible and when running its great will run till run till fuel runs out. what to check?
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My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
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