Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Engine Stumbles When Push Door Unlock
Apr 5, 2017
'03 Excusion 6.0psd....new batteries a year ago, new starter a month ago, head gaskets etc a year ago....
Today I go out and start it up, no problem. Gather up the kids and head out to load up. When I climb in, I hit the unlock button to make sure the kid's doors are open and the engine stumbles.
I thought maybe I was imagining things so I hit it again and the same thing happened but it died but fired right back up. Drove the kids to school and it ran fine, no problems.
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Is there an alert setting to signal when a regen starts? My engine stumbles badly a few seconds after a regen starts. The dealer hasn't found the problem. Right now I just keep an eye on the soot level gauge.
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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Have any of you had your 6.7 'stumble' on take off while pulling a heavy load? This is the third trip mine had done it in a row. When starting from a dead stop, the truck almost goes dead for just a second, then picks up and runs normally. No codes, no CEL. Has only done it once while unloaded. Starting to bother me while pulling into traffic. ALSO, I have the high idle hooked up and the truck does the same thing when switching on the high idle. It bogs down momentarily then runs as it should. Filters have 6k on them. No mods to the truck as far as engine and electronics are concerned. My dealer is about 65 miles away and would need to have 5er in tow to replicate. It feels as if it starving for fuel for a split second. Other than this and my backup camera that I'm still waiting on, this truck has been flawless. I know it needs to go to dealer, but will be such a hassle to duplicate without camper.
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I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
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I have a "VAN" Ford E350 and I need to check push rod on cylinder 1 and 5 left bank, how to do this?
Is ok if I remove the ARP head stup then check push rod and then re torque the head stud?
Full Story here : [URL] ....
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I have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?
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Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
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1993 ford ranger ... Having issues with washer fluid not working. Mine has started cutting out or not even working when I push the button. But if bang it on the end of the handle with something hard it will work just long enough to clean the salt off the window.
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With my 2003 PSD 6.0L, I would lock all doors with interior lock button and lock driver's door with the key. Can I do the same with my 2015 PSD 6.7 L or is there another easier/simpler way?
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I can't get the damn auto unlock to work. I've enabled it and disabled it and nothing still reset it all and all that just got the truck....
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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In my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
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I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
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My 2003 Ford Explorer Power Door Unlock on the drivers side quit working. I can unlock the doors using the fob, unlock them from the passenger side or unlock it manually. I have replaced the Power Door Lock switch but still have the same problem.
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My 2004 6.0 used to beep and flash the lights when I lock and unlock with the remote key fob, but has stopped doing it for some reason. Need the sequence required to re-program that feature.
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Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0 with edge juice with attitude
While driving first thing in the morning runs like a champ, as the engine warms up I start seeing the exhaust temps lower to 88-94, then I start getting over boost code with monitor reading of 41psi, then the Edge monitor screen will go blank, then the STALL... The excursion with start right back up but the shut off immediately. Wait 20-30 minutes in the shade and will start back up and run again poorly missing almost like turning the key off and back on... Then the next morning start all over again.
I'm thinking bad FICM or bad PMC over heating.. ??
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Did the swap and all works good except the boost is often at 3psI then sometimes it works good. Used the 03 harness. So did I need to change a wire or sensor or use 03 pcm?? I was told maf sensor might cause issues but no codes for it.
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So I've had my 2003 F-250 power stroke 6.0 for over a year now and replaced the oil with AMS oil which is good for 50,000 miles to a year as well as the oil filter which is guaranteed the same thing. I've only put 5,000 miles on it since I've owned it and made sure to let the engine heat up before going anywhere as well. Recently my engine bogged down and then had problems starting I was able to limp the last 2 miles to work but haven't been able to get it running since.
I replaced the camshaft position sensor and it fired up but once it was running it the rpm gauge dropped below 1000 RPMs it would stall out. Before it didn't have any smoke coming from the engine compartment however now when it starts it does. Is this because there's oil the possibly leaked onto something or fuel? What do I or should I look at to get it fixed?
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I've had a persistent diesel leak its gotten worse and I've found it. Its in the valley of the V. I've attached a photo of the part its the one with the plug off it.
What it is called and maybe the part number. The gray plug under the red wire.
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