Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Broken Shaft At 47000 Miles?
Sep 9, 2015
Just got a look at my 03' 6.0 turbo at Ford dealer. Truck still had boost but a real bad noise that was hard to describe. Pulled codes but no turbo code like the last turbo's. All the vanes were fine & no rust on the unison ring BUT the turbo shaft was broken. 3rd turbo went at 13,700 miles in July 2005 & now have 47,700 miles. I know I should drive it more but at 75 & having sold my boat it does't get driven to much.
I use Stanadyne with every tank full & drive it hard at least once every week to give the turo a workout. Use only Motorcraft oil every 3500 miles. Broken shaft on turbo would move about a 1/4 " on one end & a 1/2" on the other end. Ford service said they have seen shafts break before but said it was nothing I did to cause it.
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Having a turbo shaft that broke? My 03 F250 turbo shaft was just replaced by the dealer, actually the whole turbo. This is the 4th turbo. Truck has 48000 miles on it. 1st 3 turbo's had sticking unison ring & vanes but this one had a broken shaft. Mechanic said unison ring & vanes were fine.
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2003 f350 6.0 diesel, driving on the freeway at 70 mph, all instrumentation went off, the radio went off, the engine was still running fine. While pulling off on the off ramp, when the speed was about 20 mph the rear end jumped up as if the transmission was trying to go into reverse. After traveling about 4 miles at about 15 mph the rear end jumped up about 6 inches and the drive shaft pulled out of the spline and drove itself into the pavement. Why this happened. I have put two new batteries and an alternator in the truck and it has been fine every since, but I am still concerned it may happen again. The truck has a 6 inch lift on it.
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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Diesel smell in cab. 2000 F350 7.3 158K on the clock. Just noticed it 3 days ago. Been meaning to address the passenger side fuel line clamp issue. Learned about that one here. Gonna tear the stuff out to get at that one Tuesday. Replacing the clamp. Hope the fuel line is not already compromised.
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I've pulled the fuel lines and disconnected all the electric plugs. I don't seem to be able to remove the unit as the 4x4 drive shaft is in preventing me from full removal. Is this possible? Do I have to remove the drive shaft? Very frustrating as this should have been a 15 minute or less job. A video would be useful, but all my searches show only two wheel drive removal.
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I took the front axle shafts out a couple months back and remember NOT seeing any differential fluid in the axle shaft housing. But then when I took the tire off tonight.. I noticed diff fluid leaking from from the axle shaft dust seal ?
1. I didn't think diff fluid flowed up near those front dust seals ?
2. That's a brand new dust seal so I'm guessing some debri must be in the connection causing the leak ?
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My buddy has a 2011 250 and is having some weird issues with a clicking noise. It started out when you put the truck in gear (D or R) and touch the gas it would click. Seems to be coming from the middle to rear part of the truck. Now it clicks when he's driving. This all started after he got 35's and a leveling kit. It's taller springs in the front and added a block in the rear. It has less than 15k on it.
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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The truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
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Can I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
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Any luck reattaching tailgate end cap molding? Mine has a few broken tabs and is hanging on for dear life. But if I can reattach I would. I know I could drill a few holes and run in some self taping screws, but that would be quite ugly.
The tab(s) broke when lifting the heavy gate with the step closed one to many times. Using the left side now to close.
Part number 8C3Z9941018AA.
Item 2 in below image...
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Got my first CEL at just under 40K miles. P4023, Redundant temp sensor range, so looks like I get a new DEF tank sensor. Of course they are on national back-order still. One would have thought that Ford would finally have these in stock but no.....
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Just picked up a new to me very nice 2011 F350 SWB 4X4 Lariat. While going through it and I missed this when buying it, the top of the under-hood fuse box was missing and just covered over by a makeshift cover of rubber and black duct tape.
I have ordered and received the the new fusebox cover ( what a bear to get into place ) and then figured out that the PO had broken the clips that lock it down.
I have tried to get a long zip-tie around it, not much luck, and now I get a C-clamp into there to keep it closed?
I really do not want to have to order a new fusebox and pull this one apart and rewire, that just screams electrical gremlins for the life of the truck.
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I have a 2012 F250 6.7L with about 62,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck new in October 2013. I had my first check engine light last Friday. I scanned it and it was a P20BD (Reductant Heater "B" Control Circuit/Open) is what I found when I searched for it. I had the truck in on Tuesday to the dealer. They are telling me it is the Reductant Pressure Line and the repair will be $690. They didn't have the part so I picked up my truck and have an appointment scheduled for Monday.
Since picking the truck the check engine light hasn't returned. I find this odd and it makes me wonder if they are correct or not in their diagnostics.
The other question I have is isn't the DEF system part of the emissions system? If so why isn't it covered under the emissions system warranty until 80,000 miles or 5 years?
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Well so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
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Fan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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I have developed an oil leak from the bottom of the front crank shaft (front of the motor). How hard of a repair is this? any links to any tutorials? Should I even try this myself? Any special tools required?
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My old pipe to the heater core coming off the front cover was frozen in place, and long story short, the flange where the tube goes in with the o-ring broke.
I found part number 3C3Z-6608-B, which is the Motorcraft Front Cover kit and includes the LPOP and water pump, gaskets, seals, etc.
Another few hundred bucks and more time I don't have, but is that the right part? Is it possible to just get the cover? Considering the age of the motor, I'm OK with replacing all these parts, but money is getting a little thin at this point.
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When I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
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