Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 6.0 Just Losing Power And Shut Itself Off / Crank But No Start
May 30, 2016
2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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Swapped a new oil cooler and welded Egr shut. Truck ran fine the first 3-4 times I started it except for exhaust leak at the y-pipe/turbo connection. Tried to start it today and it started then ran real rough, blowing whit smoke. Now it will not start at all and blows whit smoke. The only codes I'm getting are egr codes that I've always had due to having the 05 and up intake elbow and the egr turned off via sct. What could be the issue?
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
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6.0 has had dummy plugs and stand pipes replaced and still has a long crank when cold. The kicker is that it doesn't happen when the truck is parked nose up in the driveway. It only happens if the truck is level or back into the driveway. I suspect it's that the HPOP is losing prime from somewhere.
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I noticed when I shut off the truck about 30-40 minutes later I'll open the degas bottle cap and notice there is no pressure.
I used a coolant pressure tester kit and pumped in 16PSI but couldn't hear or find the leak.
I'm going to buy a smoke machine in a month or two but until then, can I still drive the truck ?
I'm guessing it is a pin hole leak somewhere as once I shut the truck off... there is a lot of coolant pressure.
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ICP and IRP changed both fuel filtrs and Blue spring put in. HPOP Pressure is over 1600PSI when cranking with 2.5 to 4 volts.
Will try to run but acts like not getting enough fuel. If I loosen the lines off the upper filter housing lots of fuel runs out. Lots of smoke when cranking also.
FICM volts are 48.5.
Reading with Scan Gauge 2.
The truck is a 2003 F350 DRW Stock 6.0 with 433000 on the odometer.
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this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
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2004 f450 with 6.0. Was driving down the road when it started losing power like it was starving for fuel. It carried on for about a mile then died and will not start. No codes at all and we put a new fuel pump on but still wont start. Put a rag with gas in the air box and will run but rough.
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I have a 2003 6.0 powerstroke I was pulling into a gas station when it shut off like you turned the key off. The dash lights work power windows, door locks , radio, headlights, everything works except the fuel pump and the starter. I have a juice with attitude on it as well and it won't light up when you turn the key on. I have checked all fuses and relays. The fuseable link tested ok.
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I drove my 03 f-250 to work Monday everything was good no issues. At end of my shift truck will not start . turn key dash lights up glow plugs cycle turn to start nothing . Does not turn over. after some checking batteries are good. Starter will crank if i manually engage it but truck will not run even with jumping starter with ignition turned on . hooked scanner up says cannot communicate. Checked fuses etc fuse #31 has no power to it (trans range selector and starter relay)question is where to look next?
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My 2003 f-250 6.0l has not been starting. I have connected a scan tool and I am getting around 1000 psi icp. The FICM voltage is 47.5v however when I cycled the key it dropped to 43.5 then started climbing to 48, but I am not getting FICM sync. I does eventually start when I do get sync. It seems to run fine after it starts. It does not do this all of the time. But this morning It cranked until the battery died. New FICM?
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I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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I am trying to diagnose an issue with my 2003 F-250 6.0L PSD.
The first time I crank it everyday, it struggles to start. Beyond that, it seems to run fine and not have issues cranking throughout the day.
I've recently replaced both batteries, the FICM, the fuel filters and the FI wiring harness. What could be the issue?
The video shows exactly what I deal with every morning.
YouTube - 2003 F-250 Cold Start Issue ....
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So yet another crank no start. Truck is an 03 55k miles The guy I bought the truck off of told me the turbo had been reconditioned about 1000 miles ago. Drove the truck another 1000 miles or so and now having issues. I went to start truck up and noticed it took awhile longer than normal to start up and when it did finally kick over, truck and no power at all. Would idle a bit rough sounded like no turbo spool at all when given throttle. Shut the truck off right and hooked up scangauge to it went to start it and nothing.
Did throw p2285 code ICP low circuit
Values read on scangauge are as follows:
FICM Main Power 48.0V
FICM Logic Power 10-8V
FICM sync is good
ICP Pressure 1540psi on crank
IPR duty cycle 14.8% Key on engine off/48.8% while cranking
At a bit of a loss as to where to look next, would really like to troubleshoot down to the right fix instead of just throwing parts at it. Have read after sitting the turbos tend to stick and need cleaned or replaced. After being cleaned only a few thousand miles could it be stuck again? Seems like I have spark, fuel, oil just acts like its not getting any air.
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My 2003 f250 6.0l just up and quit. It make a popping noise out of the intake when cranking. I am getting 1150 psi at the icp and ipr is at 62% which seems high to me. The FICM voltage seem fine unless the batteries are drained and I am getting FICM sync. I replaced the HPOP, ICP sensor and IPR about a year ago. I recently replaced the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump. I am at a bit of a loss. I did pull the IPR and everything looked fine.
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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