Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2002 - Almost Started After Turning Over Now Stopped Firing Completely
Dec 18, 2015
First time ever. It has 175K on it. Ran fine yesterday. Went out this morning and it almost started, then stopped firing. It was facing down hill, so I thought possibly it wasn't getting the proper volume of oil, so I checked it and had to added 2 quarts to get it up to the proper level. This did not work.
I do have one question: Does the Water in Fuel light stay on until it starts? After turning it over again, it wanted to start at first, then stopped firing completely, but while cranking the WiF light goes off. Does this mean that there is no water in the fuel?
I m keeping it on the charger to make sure the batteries are up to snuff when I try it again. I only crank it for about 15 seconds before I let it rest. I don't have a code reader but I do have a ScanGuage2.
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The touchscreen for radio, navigation, etc. stopped working. Completely locked up. My truck is a 14 with less then 3000 miles.
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2004, DWR, 4x4, 6.0 PSD. One day he started the truck moved it 100' shut it off and the next day it would crank over but not fire. It will fire and run rough if you give it a shot of starting fluid. It shows codes P0401, P0275,P0528, P132B.
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Had extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
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So since I bought this truck a few weeks back I noticed it rode alittle "rougher" than some of the other trucks I test drove. But for the life of me I could not find anything suspension wise so I crawled under and looked else where to find this......
I'm ordering new mounts from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories I've read good and bad things about using after market poly bushings, and I'm just not wanting to take the risk. I want it to ride like factory. There are a total of 8 mounts, just the rears are going to run $150.
Also on a side note, I'm thinking of swapping out the exhaust. The downpipe is a full 4' and its hitting in alot of places. Do most of you run the 3.5" DP like MBRP makes?
Passenger far rear Top of same one, basically gone Here you can actually see where the shell has been hitting the frame bracket The middle ones look ok but are pretty dry rotted Drivers far rear is completely gone top and bottom The exhaust pipe is whacking the cross member because the hanger isn't even being used
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I turned the key and it started to crank and slowly started to whine down. Tried it a 2 more times and it did the same thing only with less strength and on the third try all I hear is the starter clicking. Both batteries read 12.57 on my multimeter while not cranking. Does this sound like an alternator? All my electronics seem to have plenty of power.
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Was driving the last week and happened to look down and notice the display for my climate controls was completely black. They were still running at whatever I had them last set at but couldn't change anything or turn the system off. Pulled into a parking lot, turned the truck off then started it again and everything was working fine.
Couple days later, was driving down the road again, glanced down and now my climate display, stereo display and odometer display were all black but once again everything was still functioning, just couldn't change anything. Turned my wipers on to check those, heard a little click, and all the displays popped back on like normal???? Wipers worked just fine too.
I'm assuming a short somewhere but wouldn't even know where to start to look or if it's even within my limited skill set to try and track down.
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I have a late model 2004 F-350 6.0 powerstroke. 182K miles. Auto Transmission
What happened. Condensed version
Left house, drove out to highway, got on highway. Everything feels normal.
About 1 mile of going 70mph, I notice I can no longer accelerate. after 1/2 mile, I begin loosing speed, and engine will not rev past 1000 rpm. I eventually pull over (another mile), put in neutral and will not rev past 1000. put in drive and start to idle to highway exit. it gets about another .5 mile and begin going up a hill when it completely dies. Will not restart.
No prior issues with the truck. Full tank of fuel.
What I have tested so far. Ficm 48.5 volts cranking. Icp .225V KOEO, .875V Cranking. LPOP is registering pressure on the dash. No Fault codes.
I have gotten it to start twice now, one time it allowed me to rev to 750 rpm, where i used 4 low to make it onto a trailer. second time would not rev at all. idling at 250-300 rpm.
That same night as it died, I drained the transmission pan/ TP filter and filled with 8.5 Quarts of Mercon LV. This is the first time I have done this since purchasing @ 161K miles. Everything seemed normal, no leaks present.
Also my buddy showed me how to enter the dash test mode and we cycled through these. Not sure if this is relevant.
So, What do I test next? I don't think its HPOP issue since the ICP is reading .875 volts at crank. I did unplug the ICP and it still would not start. I don't think its the injector side of the ficm because they buzz as normal with koeo, but this is a possibility as I don't have equipment to test. Egr valve is clean for age of truck.
Would it be possible that the Mercon LV knocked crud loose in the transmission causing it to fail/seize? would siezed tranny cause the engine to behave in this manner?
Fuel bowl on top of the engine was full of fuel. I have not pressure tested it yet as I can hear the pump running during key on.
could i have a bad crank or cam sensor?
Multi-injector failure?
Bad Icp with HPO failure?
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So loss power on take off and then stopped at store quick shut it down. Came out of store ten minutes later no start just turns over and over. I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
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I have searched and the only thing close is bad sensor for water in fuel light but it does not say they lost power. When driving or leaving from a stopped position, if I put any extra load on engine by pressing on accelerator pedal fast the water in fuel light comes on and the glow plug light comes on and the truck loses all power. Not 12V power just engine power. I have to let off the pedal and the lights go out and I have power again. Until I press the pedal hard again and it does it again. I have drained the filters and replaced them and still the same.
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First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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I have a 2003 CC f350 6.0. I am having some ac problems. I replaced the Compressor , dryer , orifice tube and condenser I pulled vacuum and charged to proper level. I did all this about 3 weeks ago. Was blowing 38 out of center vent driving down the high way. Ambient temp about 100.
OK now for the problem. Yesterday I was at the parts store truck running. AC was cold when i got there. Blowing hot air as i left. Never got cold compressor never kicked back in. I put gauges on it this afternoon High/low pressures where about 10lbs over ambient temp (Engine off)
Ac will not engage at all. Jumped low side cut out nothing. Replaced ac relay old one tested bad still no ac. I can supply 12V manually to the clutch with my power probe and ac kicks on and work great. There is no voltage at the ac clutch connector. I am at a loss on this.
There is power 12V at the low pressure cut out pigtail. There is 12V on 2 of the high side pressure cut out pins. But no voltage at the ac clutch. You can feel the new AC relay engaging whenever the ac is turned on (engine running).
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So we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
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I have noticed my truck makes a front end noise when I make turns, like from a main road to a side street. What seems to cause it is if there is a little dip or bump during the turn. The noise it makes sounds almost like a tire rubbing a splash guard or something. It comes from the drivers side. It he truck is stock with stock tires and wheels and has 4300 mi on it. I was maybe going to take it to the dealer...
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I bought my 6.0L Diesel about a month ago. Recently when I turn to the left it makes a weird popping sound and gets the "death wobble" If I turn it sharply to the left it will then stop. Last night it got terribly worse and it wobbled at any speed no matter what. I put it up on jack stands and turned the wheel with both tires off the ground, and the sound still happens. I am only by myself and I tried to figure out what is wrong with recording on my phone to see if a ball joint was freezing up but couldn't see. Is there anywhere I should focus on more or less with the camera to see what the issue could be?
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I've had my Edge CTS for two years and never noticed it turning itself off last summer.
This year, if the windows on the truck are rolled up and the interior is hot, The Edge displays a Red Error code and shuts down. 5-6 miles down the road as the truck has cooled off, The monitor will turn back on. I just don't remember that ever happening last summer, And I'm sure it got as hot as this year.
CTS turning itself off because of interior temps?
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03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?
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My cruise control stopped working today on my trip back from Yosemite. Tried looking through the owners manual, but apparently it doesnt have its own fuse. Everything else seems to work just fine, so I am gonna start there.
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Just got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
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